You totally lost me there.
What warranty are you talking about? The console’s or the controller’s?
Why is this even under anyone’s consideration in this case? Completely irrelevant if you ask me.
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My point was that even if it were a new Switch, fresh off the shelf, the warrantee would be just as violated whether one takes apart a genuine part of a generic part. I don’t think there are “degrees of violations”
I said most people here don’t care about warrantees.
I just had a bad experience with a generic multi memory card for the N64 and a generic multi memory card for the PS1.
But I never had a bad experience with soldered PCBs except in the 90s when I was less informed.
Thank you internet.
Correct. Once you take apart something to use in “not the intended way”, your warranty would’ve been voided already.
Essentially, any thoughts about warranties on this modding-oriented sub-forum is moot at best.
I just remember the days of the new NES when they put in a circuit that would cause a fire if you use an unauthorized cartridge, like a Tengen or Codemasters, etc.
I don’t know if the federal and/or a US Statevgovernment actually made a law against pro-active booby trapping by vandalism/arson.
That was kind of the mentality was behind worrying about having authorized parts hacked versus having generic parts hacked.
Please find me a source for this. I call 100% BS on this.
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As someone who modded many NES and Famicom consoles I call BS on this.
I also used to make my own NES Carts.
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Remember my perspective: not being much of a modded except for installing a Blinking Light Win, a pair of Intellivision 1 to FB controller cords, and cleaning 2600 and Astrocade paddles.
I know there are ways around it. I know that was only a couple extreme cases where the 10NES chips caused fires. I just mentioned it as a way of Nintendo discouraging unlicensed carts.
I’ve also had problems with an N64 Mega memory on a joystick, and a PS1 mega memory in slot 1. The first damaged my stick and the second damaged my PS1.
I was lucky the Funcoland employee didn’t test the memory slot. I got decent money towards a new PS1.
I’m mainly talking about the difference between genuine Nintendo PCBs and generic PCBs. Not about modding.
Find me a reputable source that says this; otherwise you’re again just making up causality again.
I’m not saying that using bad, broken, or even poorly-modded accessories can’t damage your system; they definitely can.
But implying that a video game company would purposefully put in a circuit that would cause a fire if you used an unlicensed accessory? I still call 100% BS on that.
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Well, I didn’t make it up. AVGN had said it.
I also read about fire warnings about a Game Genie and using it with a top loader.
Galoob sent people an EXTRA adapter to play Gam Genie on a top loader.
Also I’m not saying Nintendo pack the chip with butane.
I’m saying there’s a reason why this exists:
(Search "game genie top loader adapter on eBay) $300+ loose $500 CIB
You know the Game Genie Top Loader adapter was only released because it didn’t physically fit into the cartridge slot’s pins of the NES Top Loader, right?
The original front-loader NES had more spaced out pin connectors that would squeeze/sandwich the cart pins when pushed down. The Game Genie had a thicker PCB so that the connectors would reach since you didn’t push the cart down. The NES top-loader has “standard” PCB thickness because you don’t need to squeeze/sandwich the pins. Hence the Game Genie’s PCB is too thick for that slot.
This is a mail-order only add-on for a 3rd party accessory for a console that was released in the life cycle of its successor. The adapter is expensive now because it’s rare. Not because it “saves” your console from being fried.
All this info can be found within 30 seconds of Google searches.
You’re not doing your research and you’re making HUGE assumptions based on very small bits of info you’re pulling from places.
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Can you provide a source?
That was because the Game Genie didn’t fit correctly with the Toploader NES.
Stop spreading falsehoods.
AVGN video of the Aladdin Deck Enhancer.
It also shows that Aladdin games are the exact same code as the synonymous Camerica games.
The Camerica games, The Game Genie, and Aladdin Deck Enhancer are all from Camerica. All use similar lock out evasion technology.
AVGN showed it caused a fire (It may be a dramatic exaggeration for comedic effect.) But it really did permenantly ruin his top loader.
Saying “there is lock-out technology/chips” is different than saying “unauthorized accessories will cause a fire”.
Also, see the details I posted above about the Game Genie. If you forcefully jam a Game Genie in a Top Loader NES, you WILL damage the pins because of the PCB thickness. This is has NOTHING to do with any lock-out tech.
Sorry to say, you’re back into the cycle of only listening to what you WANT to hear.
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Yeah So I just watched your video.
I don’t know how anyone can be this stupid.
It is obvious from the low quality special effects the AVGN NES didn’t actually caught on fire and get destroyed.
This fool is basing his technical claims from a comedy bit, what kind of clown shoes garbage is this.
But he said he really did say he fried one of his other NESes. It probably didn’t cry while the camera was live.
But back to my original point:
The warantee is violated whether you dissect a genuine or generic. I just thought operating on a Nintendo brand Classic Pro assured better compatibility when padhacked.
Probably because the PCB and the “fingerings” of the board contacts on the Aladin deck ‘enhancer’ was off in it’s spacing, the wrong pins got shorted and fried a vital component. It does not take much to kill a chip, static discharge from rubbing your socks on the rug is good enough.
Using first party pads for padhack can be hit or miss. Sony for example are notoriously difficult to pad hack.
This would depend more on the padhacking job itself than the PCB.
It’s totally possible to provide a bunch of third-party padhacks that’ll work 100% fine, but also provide a 1st-party branded padhack that would fry the controller and/or console (just bridge the Vcc and GND signals).
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Or send short VCC with the wrong pin.
I think I might have a solution. And I think, so far, this is the only solution you can have for actuating the analog stick without using advanced pad hacking techniques to trick an analog stick into thinking it’s digital:
I heard that both the brook Universal USB and at least one of the three major classic fight boards (Cthulhu, PS360+, Brook Retro) lets you actuate the left analog stick or the right analog stick instead of the digital stick. I know the brook retro lets you manually wire a 3-way toggle switch. And some of them may have a left stick mode and right sick mode by getting the power to the stick at the same time as pressing something.
The two systems that are missing or the Wii Classic and the Nintendo 64. I know that chaining multiple adapters doesn’t work. But I’m assuming that all three pad fight pads treat the signal like the original signal that was. For the purposes of conversion going from Direct uncoded inputs to the first language is considered as good as a native. (Powering up Wiimote or turning on N64 while doing the alternate boot keypress is the way to turn on LS [or only stick on N64] )
I do have some adapters that go to N64 and Wii Classic. There are PlayStation 2 to Wii Classic adapters. And raphnet makes an adapter which goes from GameCube to N64. I’m thinking if you use one of the three retro fight boards, put it in left stick mode, then there is only one translation, which is good enough for those translators.
You only get into trouble I hear if you have a double translation. I assume that these fight boards are considered as good as first-generation signals, which makes the converters convert them to a second generation, which is guaranteed 100% accurate, if I understand the logic of those circuits right.
I think that would be a good solution to allow analog stick compatibility without having to physically wire an analog stick in a digital way which is well beyond Stan’s pay grade, and I don’t want to pay for his on-the-job training.
Also I was going to originally post this as a new topic but since this topic has been going on and it’s very tightly related, might as well make it another entry in this current chain.
