113

Waiting until I die the bezel black. It’s 15c out today (usually in the negatives) so I’ll try and get it finished.

114

Placed my order for 2 control panels overlays with MAME Marquees yesterday. With a coupon it came out to $56 shipped. Will take pics when the vinyl gets here.

115

Printing of images

I saw the post regarding printing at Astley Gilbert. I am a manger here at AG and if anyone needs prints done. I can get you guys special pricing if enough of you want copies of the same image.

Ron

116

hey likkuid have you considered modifying the original madcatz template in your first post in the Official Street Fighter IV TE/SE Fighstick Template Thread so that the button holes are properly 20 pixels smaller already? then maybe everyone can download the new templates and avoid problems in the future.

117

How well does the, print at some printshop get the art laminated then use 3M adhesive, option work? There’s no Kinkos close to me.

Basically, how good is that 3M spay on adhesive?

118

an idea

Another idea for those of you with decent ink jet printers… even if you dont have a large format printer, most printers can use 8.5x14" paper, so go buy some matte 11x17" photo paper and carefully cut it to 8.5x14 which is plenty of space to print a template for most sticks, ex2, Madcatz SE and TE.

119

Does anyone know to order from MAME MARQUEE? I have the template ready to go, but I’m confused on how to order it. What link do I click on to have it special ordered? What file do I upload it in? I’d appreciate it if anyone can point me in the right direction.

120

So to get the lami-label from kinkos you need to print the image then have them laminate it?

if so could i print my image out on my own personal printer then have them lami-label that image?

121

Yeah, you can do that.

122

sweet deal cause i have an awesome printer at home and can save some money

123

OK, supreme noob here! I have decided to go with Mamemarquees. I am modding a SE stick. 1.What file format do I save the art work in?
2. What are the exact dimensions for the SE template?
3. When selecting the CP size, which one do I go with?
4. On the “Template option” which one do I pick? “Don’T print full size template” or "Print full size template"
Sorry for all the questions, but it’s a lot off money to order from them and I don’t want to make any mistakes. TIA!!!

124

Random question since this thread’s been about printing out images and what not:

How would one go about printing out an image to something like 39 in. by 19 in.? Would Kinko’s be able to do that or is that something that needs to be done by another company?

Any help is appreciated.

Marcus

125

I’ve gotten art printed out and laminated at Staples.

It cost $4 total to do it.

The only problem is cutting laminated art. Whether you use an X-acto knife or utility knife, it’s a tremendous pain! Like other people have said, straight edges aren’t the problem – it’s curves and circles that are murder!

I got the art cut out by combination of drilling, slicing, and scissoring. I just roughly got the size of the buttons and the plastic was forced down when I installed my buttons. Unfortunately, my registration was a bit off and my art bulges up a bit in the middle. The next go-around (which I want to do since I shifted the buttons a little bit to correspond to the MadCatz TE layout which I like better than the stock T5) I plan on using Artist’s tape to flatten the art against the faceplate and use the plate as a guide for cutting from the back…

There is a problem with getting the laminated art to lie perfectly flat against the faceplate if you use that as a guide… The lamination makes it next to impossible for it to lie flat and still on its own. I’d use double sided tape with laminated art OR artist’s tape (white color, less acidic, less tacky than regular tape – available at good art stores) to secure the art if you don’t have it laminated.

I probably am not going to laminate my next bit of of art until after I get it cut first to fit the plate… or maybe not all. With a plexiglass cover, lamination probably isn’t really necessary unless you’re ultra-concerned about liquids or your ink running.

FYI, the art I have for faceplates isn’t anywhere near 300dpi and printed out fine on regular laser paper. It’s large wallpaper located on various websites. In most cases, it was large (14 X 12 or greater) to begin with so it looked fine when it was shrunk. It’s not so much the dpi that counts but the size of the art. Hopefully, it’s larger than the faceplate. DPI comes into play when it’s artwork that’s significantly less than the approximately 13 X 8 size of most deluxe joystick faceplates… I’m speaking of the HRAP-style cases and the MadCatz TE’s of course.

I’d recommend actually saving finished art with guides for buttons and faceplate screws as a PDF file. Staples’ computers resized my PSD file and printed it out at the wrong size. I double-checked on my computer and saw that it wasn’t me that had screwed up. The PDF file format opened up fine on their machines and printed out well. It was in CMYK mode, too. CMYK, not RGB, is standard printout format. RGB is the color standard for most monitors.

126

can someone plz post some pix of what you’ve done… im planning on making one for my mayflash stick…

127

So recently I have been working to mod my Mad Catz SE SFIV Fight stick, I went to get my art printed and they told me that the Lami-Label was only for the employees and not for customers, although they told me that they can simply laminae a sticker (basically the same thing). When they did print out my art it looked like garbage, the colors were very dark and they quality was blotchy and washed out. Does any one know where a better place do get this printed and/or have any advice.

128

Since there doesn’t seem to be a definitive answer within this thread, which of these processes is better?

  1. print image
  2. cut paper to the right size
  3. lami-label it

or

  1. print and lami-label image
  2. cut it to the right size

And if the first process is better, then for step 2, should the paper be cut exactly the size of the stick’s panel, or slightly smaller to allow for laminate to properly seal the edges?

129

I printed it out, lami-labeled it then I cut it out. I think it gives you more room to adjust if any problems were to arise.

130

Wow. Let me try to recap. Please correct me where I’m wrong.

  1. Never upscale original images for the template.

  2. Save it as a TIFF and bring it to Kinko’s or a pro printing shop.

  3. Print it on heavy matte paper and get it laminated.

  4. Cut out the holes, stick it in.

131

If I’m planning to cover the art in plexi, which is going to give me the best looking print. A Xerox Fiery Laser printer, or an ink based color printer.

132

What happened to this thread? Lol.

3 months ago people were posting on it like crazy and then no one cared about it anymore. I’m about to go to kinkos and try to print some stuff there, I guess I’ll let you guys know how it went and what I did when I get back.

PS: Likkuid you still haven’t posted those pics and it’s been like 5 months lmao.

EDIT: Ok so just got back from kinkos, and they printed out everything fine but the laminating machine wasn’t working out so well, so the lady printed it on a different kind of paper and just told me to put double sided tape on the back. I sure hope that works. Oh and the first time the lady was about to print so that she could laminate it but another worker said that Capcom is copyright and blah blah, so I just told them to take off the Capcom layer, but when she printed it again she forgot to take off the Capcom layer so everything turned out fine anyway xD…now I’m just waiting for my buttons to get here so I can put everything together.