Both use a variation of the vewlix layout, i think the kai has a bit more space between the stick and the buttons iirc, i cant imagine it beeing problematic.
As for the te2+ issues. Madcatz sort of cashed in on their successes with their last gen sticks by jacking up the prices and offering a stick that looks a bit more premium. They had pcb issues last gen aswell, but their support was a bit better imo. The issues were more easily excusable as og te’s could be found cheap during promotions anyway, adding an aftermarket. pcb would still add up to a relatively cheap good quality stick.
no idea. Be sure to keep us posted if you do. That said, theres a fix for the pcb issue that involves soldering, as discovered by @Vicko . If youre up for it you can fix it permanently.
Theres a couple of threads about the TE2 where the fix is detailed. Iirc it involves soldering a resistor between vcc and the offending button, but its best to do a search.
One thing i should mention: the hrap 4 uses hori made parts so maybe best to try it first. Many people keep the hayabusa stick that it comes with but replace the buttons with sanwa/seimitsu.
Majority of PS4-era sticks are hot garbage for a higher price point. It’s simple. Offer an inferior product for more money to make more profit. Madcatz going back to their roots of making shitty controllers again I guess.
But hey, they look pretty, so…
RAP4 is okay, but for me it has unusual dimensions and is too light for my taste. But with quality Sanwa parts in there, it feels pretty good.
So I got the RAP4. It kinda feels a contrast to the Madcatz TE2+. I feel that “both have their advantages and disadvantages”.
The Madcatz feels like it’s built much better than the Hori. Like a tank. Unfortunately, it is also significantly heavier and thus more difficult to lug around.
The Hori did well not to have any buttons in front of the stick so I don’t accidentally bump a button with my knee and end up hitting the pause button during a tournament (this actually happened). However, having the buttons on the side are a unintuitive.
The Madcatz clamshell design is awesome. However, relying on taking off the cord and putting it inside the case is, very annoying and does more harm than good. Especially when at events like ComboBreaker.
The Hori Hayabusa stick is a godsend. However, the Kuro buttons aren’t “pushy” enough.
All in all, I’d say that I like the design of the TE2+ better, but I prefer playing on the RAP4.
A RAP 4 with a clamshell design and Sanwa buttons would be the best of both worlds.
Hey everyone, I got some money for Christmas and I am thinking about picking up a VLX and I have a few questions. Is the build quality on the Kuro VLX better or worse than the Hayabusa VLX? It looks like the VLX doesn’t have a PC switch on it, but I saw a few videos mentioning that it works on PC. Do I need to use any software like Xoutput to get it to work on PC or does it work out of the box?
@oodk Either or; I have a computer desk where my monitor sits with enough room for it and I could also use my lap. I also have a few smaller desks for when I want to use it on my PS4.
This is my first major (>$100) arcade stick purchase and I haven’t used anything of this size before. I love the retro look to it though and want a high quality stick that will last a long time. Are there any other sticks I should consider that match the VLX?
@oodk Yeah I was also heavily considering a Panzer 3 stick, but I saw a Used - Like New Hori Hayabusa VLX on sale at Amazon warehouse for $216 and grabbed it. If turns out to be in good shape, I was going to use that extra savings on a custom panel for the VLX by @“Jasen Hicks” if he plans on making any again in the future. Otherwise, I’ll probably return it and get a Panzer.