If you’re referring to the RAP V4 Hayabusa you’re not going to be able to find it any longer on the retail market but has a good amount of wrist space. If you’re referring to the RAP 4 Kai it doesn’t have as much wrist space due to the larger separation between the joystick and buttons but still has plenty of room and is pretty standard or above standard for most retail sticks.
Depending on how much play the joystick had when you played, it could be much different. A fresh stock JLF is much different than one played on for over a year where the spring is loosened up. You can also get tighter springs and larger actuators to customize it to your preference. As for buttons, a standard OBSF button feels pretty much the same until the microswitch goes out. If you’re looking for a higher spring button, you’ll want to try Seimitsu buttons. The stick and buttons you’re playing with in your current Hori RAP Soul Calibur V stick is EXACTLY the same parts as what’s in the TE.
It will give you a lot of information you can then go on from there. If you have any questions regarding details you don’t understand, feel free to ask in the [ABSOLUTE QUESTION AND ANSWER THREAD V.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)](Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!) thread
The TE1 has Sanwa parts, same as your stick. It’s possible his spring is a bit more lose than yours due to wear or simply being from a different production lot, but that’s a very easy (and cheap) to change anyways.
The HRAP4 uses Hori’s new line of parts (Hayabusa stick and Kuro buttons), so they will feel different from what you’re used to- you could swap parts with your old one if it bothered you much.
Also, while I can’t vouch for it firstahnd, the Brooks ps3 to ps4 converter seems to be getting pretty good feedback so far: Brook Converters Thread
Keep in mind that the converter isn’t guaranteed at this point, as different pcbs may or may not work with it. That said, since the HRAP3 was confirmed to work, there’s a pretty high chance your SCV one will.
Modding your stick to work with ps4 is another option, though it’s a bit more advanced and would require soldering.
It take some time and practice, but I think you will enjoy it. The Hrap4 is a decent stick. The parts was not to my liking and I swap them out but then i prefer Seimitsu parts.
I know that feeling as well, I started on a MVC2 TE, HRAP V3 Kai, HRAP N3, then VLX Kuro. For me wrist space is a big deal, I play both on my lap and on top of desk depending on how I feel, the N3 is my stick of choice due to wrist space.
LOL moment when the wife came back from school one day, me and the kids were playing The Simpsons on MAME. During the bonus stage, wife walked in while we were all mashing buttons with our backs turned to her. I happen to be using the Kai and she said, actual words “You look like you’re jacking off”. I literally dropped to the floor crying while the kids were like WTF.
On the surface they are both HRAP V Hayabusas. The first one hasn’t been released yet though so it may just be an update. However all of the specs are in Japanese so it’s hard to tell if they are the same quality in terms of components etc.
The newer one is retailing for $60 less (aus) but I just want to be sure the parts won’t need replacing straight away.
The cheaper one is going to have the new version Hayabusa branded buttons and the older one has “kuro” branded buttons.
They are both made in house by Hori.
Kuro plunger is larger in diameter, the edges of the plunger are sharper and the plunger is taller. The button press is deeper to press and activate.
Sanwa button plunger is smaller in diameter, the edges of the plunger are rounded and not sharp, and the plunger is shorter from top to bottom. It requires less of a press to activate the switch and also to bottom out the full press.
the Hayabusa buttons should be more like normal Sanwa buttons but I think the plunger’s diameter is larger. Also the texture of the whole pushbutton is like a matte plastic material and not glossy and smooth like Sanwa, Seimitsu and Kuro buttons.
I really liked the size and sharp edges of the kuro buttons, but I extremely disliked how deep the button press was to activate the switch and to bottom out the button press.
I use Paradise Arcade OSB-MX buttons now, they are kinda like Kuros with the sharp edge and deep plunger but are super sensitive to activate like Sanwa buttons.