I haven’t opened up a guitar yet. But the drum kit’s very easy to work with.
Unfortunately I only get A,B,X,Y, and LB so it’s going to be a Neo-Geo pcb for me.
I haven’t opened up a guitar yet. But the drum kit’s very easy to work with.
Unfortunately I only get A,B,X,Y, and LB so it’s going to be a Neo-Geo pcb for me.
This bites. The drums are my favorite part (I managed to 5* sightread Master of puppets, w00t) and I love the fenders too much to gut one of them. I despise xplorers but I dont wanna gut one if its not common ground… argh. Ill keep one on the side for possible frankensteinage if another friend wants to do a custom stick.
Just to confirm, no one has been able to find the 6th button on the PCBs, correct?
nope only 5
OK on the PCB there is a row of 8 solder points - labelled 1-8 (the ones going to the guitar neck buttons)
1 + 8 = button 1
2 + 8 = button 4
3 + 8 = 5
7 + 1 = 3
7 + 2 = 2
for button 6, snip the wire off for the pedal connector and short the two solder points
Voila - six buttons, 4 directions and back, start and guide!
Just hacked a wired redoctane controller for this info, hope it helps…
Now - how do you disable the tilt control hahaha
Isn’t the tilt Right Stick? I remember playing Halo using a Guitar once.
Yes you are correct!
Looks like its good to go then
Bit messy wiring, but very compact pcb
btw, any UK users wanting a cheap guitar for this try here
edit ah ok, no need to worry about it then for fighting games.
Sucks for Shmups that use the right stick though (not sure if there are any on 360)
Its Z axis and Y rotation on the PC (right stick I believe)
Z-axis is the triggers. - is one and + is the other but I forget which is which. You can’t press both triggers at the same time normally when using it on the PC; you’ll have to use XPadder or something similar to make the triggers into keypresses.
Edit
I’m pretty sure that’s how it works with the 360 controller, but it may be the original Xbox controller?
Either way it should work fine for 6 button games on the PC and 360.
I saw that the phone jack had 2 wires in it, never thought it actually did anything since the pedal never came out. good to know it has potential. it wasnt common ground though, right?
Nah, ground is shared between some buttons, but its not common - just use the solder points in my post, I think they are the best combinations from my testing.
Guess that I should not have written the xplorer controller off so quickly. Yeah, like I said, you can get the six action buttons (the pedal being the sixth), directional controls, and three option buttons out of it.
Downsides are that it is not common ground, does not have eight action buttons, and the PCB is a little bigger than it should be. The main upside though is that you can get these pretty dang cheap at places like Gamestop (as already mentioned) and Toys R Us, and soldering them is very easy.
To disable the analog movements I think you just have to remove the variable resistor objects that cause the movement and install one or two resistors, just like neutralizing an analog stick or trigger.
I wanna leave a tilt sensor in there and assign it to all 3p or k for Zangief.
that should make em even more easy mode.
jump in splash, low short, SHAKE!
The wireless gh3 guitar has a really small pcb, I was able to mount it inside a 100 mm x 60mm x 20 mm project box and using the expansion pedal I was able to get 6 buttons for playing SF4. You can disable the tilt sensor but it is very hard because you need to solder 1 cable from the 7th soldering spot of the accelerometer (which is the tiniest thing Ive ever seen) to the negative contact from the batteries.
do you think you can post a picture of that solder, and possibly a picture of the game controller menu under windows control panel?
does the solder you’re talking about keep the y axis on the middle neutral position?
I tried to do it, but as I said, It is almost impossible to solder. Here is the guide that explains it: http://www.scorehero.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=969412
This is for the xplorer guitar: http://www.scorehero.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=66913
^^ You dont have to solder the buttons that come on the ribbon cable, just strip the ribbons and put them into a terminal strip…
It’s pretty easy.
Can someone maybe wright up a guide on how to do this on an x-plorer if possible? This would really help cut costs.