82.2mm x 67.3mm
Ain’t it purdy?
Nice work…~!!! can’t wait for the finished product, so how much off do we get for sending you all those samples?
sorry i am a little bit excited.
That is quite sexy. The size is not too bad either.
~Paik
Toodles bringing sexy back ^_^. Thanks for the measurements :).
For NES/SNES/GC/Genesis, just define the far right six buttons, and leave the L1/L2 unmapped(or in the GC’s case, L1 or L2, seeing as something’s gotta be the Z trigger).
When I mame it up with my HRAP, I have it defined default to the far right six buttons SF2 style then I just re-map to ABCD in NeoGeo games.
Oh, you can also do very preliminary six button genesis testing using a simple parallel port interface.
Nice work.This battle is yours.Looks like xbox/dc determine the outcome of the war.
In case you forgot: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=125026
Yes. Yes it is. 
That’s what I get for turning my back for a moment…you got this project licked! Good work!
So where do I send my money?
(Also…who was working on the sanwa optical boards? That thread kinda faded…don’t know what became of it…)
ok im absolute noob at this
but does mean have to solder ps1 leads off oringal ps1 pads to solder to this pcb?
That is pretty amazing. Great work!
No. Only Dreamcast and 360 but thats if Toodles can’t get those to work.
OK im a bigger noob what does this do? Lol sorry about not reading i just dont have the time right now
Im assembling the first UPCB now. It is going very slowly because I am taking pictures of everything and writing the Instructable as I go. I’m hoping that if I document everything well enough there once, I wont have to constantly repeat myself.
You dont need a playstation PCB at all, just the cable. Check the instructable example for making a cable; the process for making a playstation cable is the same, as long as you check the psx.h file for the pinout.
http://www.instructables.com/id/E9SM77YF1Y7H1KH/
If you don’t have time to read the thread, or at least the first post in the thread, I don’t have the time to answer.
somebody prem this man
Alright, I got the first one assembled. It’ll be the one I use for testing and development, so instead of the connectors for stick and buttons, it has the DB-15 male and female soldered straight to the board. I’ve documented everything so far on the Instructable for assembling a UPCB. I went ahead and set it as published for now, so you can get an idea what you’d be getting into. Of course I talk alot, so it is still 22 pages unfinished.
Here are some pictures of the one I assembled. I have a blue power LED which is SICK bright, along with a red and green status LEDs that I can use for troubleshooting. What can I say? I’m a sucker for das blinkenlights. I had to use the ribbon cable to cover the light just so I could get a damn picture of the board.
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2752/dsc02523cj2.jpg
And here it is with my NeoGeo old style stick plugged in, and using the UPCB Saturn cable. This is the first console test of the UPCB, and it passed wonderfully.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/6718/dsc02526cg3.jpg
That’s about all I’ll be able to do with the UPCB for at least today. When I can, I’ll be assembling one to go into my stick, so I can show the rest of the options I didnt use with this one.
ill get around to finish reading this page (kinda busy) but looks amazing toodles
good work 
I stop checking Tech Talk for a month and I miss this?! Great job Toodles. Your gifts to the fighting game community have surely allowed you passage into whatever positive afterlife you believe in.
Yeah, you and me both. This is some awesome stuff.
22 pages? That’s all? Weak. 
(j/k)
I have two of the UPCBs put together with pictures; the one I’ll leave outside of a case for development, and the other one I’ll install in my HRAP2. The second one is assembled, but not installed, so I don’t have any of the pictures for it needed for making an Instructable for installation, but I can finish the Instructable for assembly. I am doing that now, and should be finished with the Instructable tomorrow.
I ordered a bunch of parts, and as soon as they get in, I’ll have 5 UPCBs for sale by themselves, and 10 UPCBs to be sold as a kit. They have all of the components except for the PIC itself, but if you took my advice on sampling, that won’t be an issue. Everything needed to assemble the UPCB and install it is included, just provide the buttons, stick, and case. Quick disconnects and #4 bolts to secure the pcb would be a good idea too. I even got the cool multicolored ribbon cable, so the pics from the inside of a stick will look even better. I will also have the parts to make a couple of USB button select cables as well. Just depends if I can find USB cables for cheap, but I have enough for 2 short cables right now.
I’m afraid I have to take back what I said before about offering a discount for those who send me extra 18LF4550’s. I just don’t think there is a need for the 18LF4550’s to go through my hands at all. The offer for free programming still stands though. Send me 1 or 10, I dont care, I’ll flash them. It’s pretty simple with the ZIF attachment I have on my programmer. If anyone wants to leave spares with me in case others need them, you’re welcome to, but I am thinking that effectively buying the samples and reselling them is both unethical and a pain in the ass.
I have a pretty big project coming of wiring up a racing setup, and the parts should be here Wednesday. While I’m working on that, my work on the UPCB will be on hold. He’s paying good money for the work, so want to get it done ASAP.
The order of items I’m tackling is like this. I’ll d what I can until the racing parts get here,and pick it up once it’s done (or when I need to take a break from it).
Finish Assembly Instructable
Package current source code for 1.2 release
Create instructable for the USB button select cable (the one for PC and PS3 play, and also upgrading the firmware. Prolly the most important cable to make.)
Create instructable walking through the firmware upgrade
<the above are probably the only ones I’ll get done before the racing gear gets here>
Troubleshoot PS2 player 1 problem, as soon as my Oscope probes come in the mail.
Wire up an Agetec PCB as a piggyback.
Test and implement piggyback support.
Make Instructable for making a DC piggyback.
Implement tournament mode
Implement record/playback
Implement GC/N64 support
Wire up DOA4 pcb as a piggyback (whenever it gets here. Told it was in the mail, but havent seen yet.)
Make instructable on making a xbox360 piggyback.
lastly, I have some smart friends in college for EE that I’ll be sending information about how the DC communicates. Hopefully they can give me a simple way of converting it to an easier signal for the PIC to read.
What kind of programmer are you using? Can I build my own?
The main one I use is the Inchworm. It’s a clone of Microchip’s ‘hockeypuck’, the ICD2. You can order either the bare PCB, or a full kit from dipmicro.com. The Inchworm kit when I got it was 36$, and wasnt difficult to assemble. I had a little problem with it because of a point I completely missed when soldering, but since then, it’s been great. The debugging is just awesome.
The ZIF socket is separate. You can easily make your own, or get the Firefly board, which is made to go with the Inchworm.
Info on both is available from http://www.blueroomelectronics.com
The Inchworm is also a debugger; it’s not just a programmer. Keep that in mind. $36 and some soldering and you got a very usefull piece of equipment.
If you want cheaper, you can find other programmers you can build for damn cheap. The ‘JDM’ programmer comes in tons of different forms, including schematics you piece together yourself, kits you assemble, or already assembled. Olimex.com has a PIC programmer for $10 already assembled.
I do recommend the Inchworm for price/usefullness; it’s all I’ve been using for making the UPCB. There is a new version called the Inchworm+. If you get one, make sure to get the plus. If you have any specific needs, let me know and I’ll see if anything fits better.