And plugging in normal controller mode works fine everytime? Based on the description, I’d be expecting a hardware problem, but if controller mode works every time, then it isn’t the hardware. At any rate, it’s been working sweet on my original Win2K Advanced Server box, and after the OS wipe and reinstall, XP 32 bit Professional SP3.
Not really, it’s sort of a mess. Here’s the symptoms, on four different machines:
2 Homebuilt systems, Vista SP 1: Most of the time, will work when plugged in under controller mode. Occasionally when plugging in, nothing will happen, and I’ll have to delete the infcache in the windows INF folder, then reboot. Afterwords will work again. 2.0B seems to be recognized much more frequently (less cache clearing/reboots needed).
Bootloader mode usually results in windows finding an “unknown device” and gives me a USB device has malfunctioned error. It shows as an unknown device, and shows no driver installed. Attempting to install a driver doesn’t work, as windows claims the driver is not for the hardware. Trying to update the driver, pointing it at the release driver folder, doesn’t work as windows simply says a better driver is installed (despite it having no driver installed!). Uninstalling the device results in windows finding it and reinstalling as an unknown device with no driver.
Some combination of deleting inf cache, removing all HID devices, and rebooting worked once so I could get it updated to 2.0B.
Dell Optiplex Tower, XP SP3: Before 2.0 it wouldn’t be recognized at all when plugged in. After the 2.0 update it comes up in controller mode, but I get the same “unknown device” error in bootloader mode.
Dell Laptop, XP SP2: Controller mode is recognized (didn’t try it before 2.0B was installed).
Boatloader mode showed the same “unknown device” issue. I installed the .inf from the release folder. If I went into device manager, and uninstalled the USB root hub the UPCB was connected too, then forced a new hardware scan, about 1 out of 5 times I could install the bootloader driver. However, attempting to use the firmware programmer would fail - it would give me an write failure - invalid handle #6 or something. Upon reboot it would go right back to “unknown device”.
Sounds like a hardware problem between the PC and UPCB. Swap out the ribbon cable; I know there were two sent back to you, but I only messed around with one. See if the helps, and if not I can always take another peek at that USB cable.
Finally got the UPCB updated to 2.3B.
However, I’m sorry to report the Home button does not work when playing PS2 games.
It works in the cross media bar, but when you put in a ps2 game, when it asks you to press the Home button hitting star+sel does not work. I’ve tried 4 times now with no success.
Sorry Toodles. I’ll report back if I can get it to work, but it doesn’t look like it right now.
Ah hell. Why the hell would things be different using the PSX button there, versus inside the game?!?!?
Fuckballsantaclausmannipples
I’m doing a bunch of googling, and seeing reports of one of the PS3 firmwares actually breaking VSHG BC. That was back in the 1.7 and 1.8 days though. Forums here ain’t to clear either. Crackbone, can you update your PS3 to the most recent firmware and tell me what the version number of the firmware is?
Well, updating the first post now. I SO wanted PS3 to be done and finished.
Yeah, sorry to have to tell you. Firmware was 2.3, but I updated to 2.4.1 and repeated the test. Same results.
I tried the following:
Holding down ST+Sel immediately after selecting the game
Holding down ST+Sel immediately when prompted
Tapping ST+Sel when prompted
Continually tapping ST+sel as the game loads
Holding down ST+Sel after the “press Home button prompt” disappears.
It appears home is disabled totally once the PS2 emu starts up. Normally you can just hold down the home button to access the controller menu even after the PS2 game boots.
Is yours a 60GB or 80GB model?
Either way, looks like I have to get my hands on one of the spendy models. Yuck.
Toodles,
Does the same problem happen with PSX games? My ps3 is the 40gb with no ps2 BC. However, PSX games work.
If the issues happen with PSX games, could it be possible for you to fix it without the need to buy a spendy?
PSX games play perfect; I test a bunch on CvS:Pro and SoulEdge. Even the PSX button for changing the controller address (from player 1 to player 2 for instance)and exiting the game.
Neither - it’s a 20G (CURVEBALL!)
Seriously though, before you start cracking yourself over the head, I can run other tests if you want me to. I’ve still got my copy of Symphony of the Night, I’ll verify the Home button functions in PSX games on my system tonight - just in case there is some sort of fluke.
My bootloader issue thing is a pain, but apparently if I just repeatedly nuke the infcache without a reboot I can get it to go through. It’s a pain but apparently common enough problem with some USB hardware that there’s a few threads about it. If you want to try other firmware tests on it let me know.
Assembled Pre-orders
I have one UPCB kit un-spoken for that may go at any time, so the second round of preorders for assembled UPCBs is now open. The pre-order price is $45.00, and doesn’t include shipping or a PIC, but everything else.
Everything on the board will be soldered and ready to be installed. The only things not included are the PIC, and the shipping. The only soldering that will need to be done is to solder the ribbon cable to the female DB15 output. 15 solder points and that’s it. (I debated using the blue IDC Dsub 15 thingy from last time, but that blue piece is just too much of a bitch to install. If you have a left over motherboard to gameport cable, you can use that instead and not have to solder anything. I have a few of those personally that I will be giving out to the first preorders has they come; I should have 20+ of them, but I cannot guarantee everyone will get one.
Kit will include:
-UPCB board, with all components installed and soldered (No PIC. 40 pin IC socket is soldered in place, ready for PIC to be installed.)
-3x 20 pin female IDC connectors. These are the pieces that go on the ribbon cable and plug into the UPCB for the buttons and/or piggyback connections.
-1x 6 pin polarized female connector. This is what plugs into the UPCB for the stick. Take your JLF harness or whatever wire you’re connecting to the stick, crimp the pins, insert into the connector, and plug into the board.
-7x crimp pins for above. I included a spare in case of human error.
-1 meter rainbow colored 20 conductor ribbon cable, for connecting buttons, the output DB15, and piggybacks
-1x 16 pin female IDC connector, for connecting the UPCB to the output DB15.
-1x female DB15 for the output connector
-1x 2 pin female connector for program button. If you want a program button, crimp the two wires to the pins below, insert into this connector, and it plugs right into the board.
-3x crimp pins for above.
Board will NOT have any DB15s soldered to it; if you want to use it as a NeoGeo->Whatever converter, you’ll have to solder those on yourself. Since most people will want this in a stick, no need for everyone to pay for something few people use.
As anyone knows, the per unit cost goes down by volume. The price of $45.00 secures a preorder for an assembled UPCB and the extra bells and whistles. This is the worst case cost; if I can get preorders for 35 pieces, everything will be kopasetic. If I can’t get 35 preorders, then I wont be able to afford the assembly. I’m a man of my word though; If I dont get 35 orders, I’ll be assembling these by hand for those that did preorder, and there will not be any assembled UPCBs available for those that didn’t preorder. God that would suck though. If I can get 65 units preordered, the preorder price will drop to $40. Anyone that preordered 1 unit at the $45 price will have the difference used to pay for shipping. If they ordered more than that, paypal refunds will be given immediately after shipping has been paid. If I can get preorders for 100 units, the price will go significantly down, but I havent crunched the numbers yet because Im a bit of a pessimist.
After the preorder, the price will go up to $5+preorder price. If I get 65 preorders, $45. 35 pre-orders, $50. Less than that, no assembled boards will be available.
Some very good news though: The price of the PIC has gone WAY done since last run. Newark has them at just under $5 each (http://www.newark.com/08J9678/semiconductors-prototyping/product.us0?sku=microchip-pic18lf4550-i-p). For those that pre-order, I’ll be offering to get the PIC for $6. After the shipping cost, I may make a few cents, but since I can order the bunch prepaid, I wont be putting any of my money at risk. Price for the PIC will also go up a dollar or two after the preorder is closed. As always, I’ll program any PICs sent to me for free. This is just to be nice to those that preorder that dont want to mess with sampling their own.
Testing: All boards will be tested by me before they get shipping to the end user. I am setting up some equipment to make this as fast and painless as possible; you can be confident that the board you receive will work right out of the box.
How long will it take? This pre-ordering window will be open until midnight MST July 31st. I expect the worst case scenario for getting everything ordered, shipped, assembled, and shipped to me, and shipped back out to you, will take 4-6 weeks from the time I place the order Friday August 1st.
If you wish to secure your part of the pre-order batch, paypal $45 each to toodlesdc SPLAT yahoo . com. Shipping costs or PICs costs can be paid later if you wish. Estimate US shipping to be $5 for every two. Any extra from actual shipping cost will be refunded.
Many of you purchased hand assembled UPCBs from me at the cost of $62 each, the price Numbski paid for the ebay auction for an assembled UPCB. I sincerely hope none of you will be offended by the lower cost for an assembled UPCB; I should have made it clear that assembled boards would likely be available in the future for less if there is enough demand. If it weren’t for people like you, I likely wouldn’t be doing this to begin with, so you do have my thanks.
For those of you wanting bare PCB’s, they will be available for $12 for 1, $10 each for 2, and $9 each for 3 or more. Since there is no assembly, these will be shipped out sooner than the assembled units.
Please feel free to ask any questions.
Paypal sent!
is this for Rev 2.1 board or for the new design with the screw terminals?
Rev 2.1 at that price. The one with screw terminals I’ll be ordering a small batch of bare boards at the same time. If you’d rather have one of the screw terminal models, I can put together a kit for, but can’t get a preassembled one. Kit price will be an even $40 w/o PIC (screw terminals are spendy).
Verified no shorts in the psx button select cable and that when powered, the dsub points match high (~4v) or low in order according to this scheme:
D-Sub pin number:
(9)(6)(7)(10)(11)(2)(3)(4)(5)(15)(12)(13)(14) System:
H L L H L L L L Button Select Playstation
I still get no response from psx, although pc works fine. I’m not sure how to power the board w/o connecting a upcb cable. I’ll just make another psx cable to try for the heck of it.
Have you seen the XIM360? Seems to be using a C8051F320 with a built in USB device controller. Seems that he’s using that to sending the data to/from the PC. I think they’re wiring directly into the controller inputs on the Xbox 360 Wired pad.
Anyhow, reason I mention it, is that the Universal PCB could be modified to do something similar, no? Maybe by adding a serial over USB link, or I2C/SPI/etc? e.g. FTDI FT232R. Then we could use the PCB for universal input to more than one system. It would be good if this board could be used for more than just arcade sticks…
^ I was about to post that lmao
EDIT: wow Im a dick sometimes.
Those of you with installed upcbs: when you installed the female dsub15, did any of you use some kind of extension cable through the existing cord passthrough to avoid having to drill another hole? The option for the latter was mentioned to me awhile back, but I’ve noticed that vga extension cables have only 9 wires that actually pass through the cable, even though they have 15pin connectors on the ends, which means they wouldn’t work, right?
If it’s not fully pinned out, it won’t work. All of the PC MIDI/gameport extension cables I’ve seen are fully pinned out though, like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/MIDI-JOYSTICK-GAMEPORT-EXTENSION-CABLE-6FT-ADEAL_W0QQitemZ150265260256QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116