Universal PCB (eventually) thread

Tech Talk
42

First post updated. Schematic is linked instead of shown because its kinda huge, but much easier to look at now. I broke it down to show all of the optional pieces that can be used. This is the exact schematic that I’m designing the PCB with. I’m gonna take some time to look the schematic over to doublecheck everything is laid out right, and then send an order off to a fab house. Currently, the PCB is 3.2" x 2.6". It looks a little scary, but there is room for everything in the schematic. It just may be a little cramped if you use every option.

Source code is released as well for 1.1 including all of the new supported systems. The .H file for each system contains good information on the pinouts, the protocal, and how to wire a UPCB cable for that system.

43

Awesome. Would you consider offering installation services of said PCB and or piggyback PCBs into pre-made custom sticks?

thanks

44

I’d consider it, but it wouldn’t be cheap. But I am willing to work in trade for toys I want (DOA4 PCB, FC Twin, CPS-2 PCBs :slight_smile: That’s a lot of time. But I do plan on having tutorials up on Instructables for assembling the UPCB, and eventually wiring up the piggyback PCB’s. It’s not hard, just requires time. The Xbox360 piggyback will be harder, since you have to use the analog switch IC’s, but I’ll be covering that too.

Here’s what the top of the pcb will look like. Im placing an order now. Yes, it looks scary, but it really isn’t. A good part of the board no one except me will ever use.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/7112/upcblayoutboardzq4.png

45

Ok, I know you said more details were coming or whatever, but as far as piggybacking is concerned-
on the schematic it lists a piggyback inputs for xbox 360 or DC, would I just solder the wires from my hacked dc or xbox 360 PCB into those spots? sorry to sound dense, I just want to make sure I understand this correctly.

46

Hehe. Not dense, good question.

–Dreamcast piggybacking, easy version (all PCB’s are powered at once)
Yes, just wire it up. Since Dreamcast pads use a common ground, you’ll want to wire it up directly. Short to A, Forward to B, Up to Dpad Up, etc. The line marked RB0 should go to start. You don’t have to wire Select up to anything if you dont want, but I would wire it up with a pair of diodes like this:



UPCB side              DC Side
Select------+---|<|-----A
            +---|<|-----Start

-|<|- is a diode

So it would act as a Taunt button for the Capcom games.
Remove the normal cable from the PCB. There are 4 wires (the fifth green one can be ignored for now) in that cable. Where the red wire went into the DC PCB, connect the VCC line from the UPCB. Black wire - GND from UPCB. White and blue are the real data lines. Connect them to DC_1 and DC_2.

–Xbox360 piggybacking, easy version
Xbox360 doesn’t use common grounds, so you have to make it use common grounds first. This requires the use of the analog switch IC’s. The ones I am planning to use for mine are the MAX4611. Each chip has four lines going to it, and eight going out. If the line going in is low, it connects the two matching lines. High and it disconnects. So 3 of those chips will turn an xbox360 controller into a common ground setup.



UPCB side                                      Xbox360 side
Short----------MAX4611-------------- First point for 'A' button
                     +---------------Second point for 'A' button

And repeat for all 4 directions and 8 buttons.
Again cut the cable, wire the black to GND, red to VCC, and the two data lines to X360_1 and X360_2.

The complicated way I havent totally figured out yet. I hope to keep the PCB’s unpowered when not in use, but Im still working on that.

By using the RB0 line instead of Start, I can still keep a tournament mode for the piggybacked PCB’s.

This’ll be so much easier to explain when I get a good one made with pictures.

47

There’s no way to format this in a way that doesn’t look like ass. Digikey part numbers for everything and cost. Bare minimum, if you sample the PIC from microchip.com, A little under $7. PIC by itself is over $13, so sample that mofo. With all of the extra possible stuff, it can reach $20, assuming you sample the PIC. (Most of that is if you buy the ribbon cable from Digikey. Just use old IDE cables :slight_smile:

Digikey Part No. Quantity Cost Description Notes

4.7KQBK-ND 15 0.81 Pull up resistors 4.7kOhm
22QBK-ND 2 0.27 USB resistors 22 Ohm Cost is for 5 (minimum order)
1.0MQBK-ND 1 0.27 Crystal resistor Cost is for 5 (minimum order)
X439-ND 1 0.58 20 MHz Crystal
490-3859-ND 2 0.18 0.1uF capacitors (C1 C2)
490-3629-ND 2 0.56 15pF caps for Crystal
P13129-ND 1 0.17 33uF cap (C3)
P13466-ND 1 0.11 470nF cap for vUSB
ED90059-ND 1 1.98 40 pin IC socket
PIC18LF4550-I/P-ND 1 13.73 18LF4550 DIP PIC Can be sampled for free from Microchip.com
215FE-ND 1 1.29 Female DB-15 Output jack. Most small computer stores have tons of
motherboard pieces, including a 15 pin female jack to
a 2x8 header made to plug into the motherboard. If you
can find these, they make things much easier and cheaper than
making your own.

		Optionals:

4.7KQBK-ND 2 0.27 Pull up resistors 4.7kOhm Needed for RA0 and RA1 to be buttons. Price for 5.
220QBK-ND 3 0.27 LED Resistors Needed for Power, RA0 or RA1 LED’s
RXEF040-ND 1 0.44 PTC Resetable Fuse Highly recommended
ED3114-ND 1 0.63 14 pin IC socket Needed for Piggyback switch
WM4204-ND 1 0.66 6 pin molex KK header Needed for ICSP connector
296-8329-5-ND 1 0.50 4066N chip Needed by Piggyback switch
215ME-ND 1 1.04 Male DB-15 For NeoGeo input/Neogeo converter
HRP16H-ND 0-4 2.92 16 pin IDC socket One for Output header, one for button ribbon connector
one for DC piggyback, one for Xbox360 piggyback.
Price is for four.
WM4204-ND 1 0.66 6 pin molex KK header For optional 6 pin stick connector
HRP10H-ND 1 0.59 10 pin IDC socket for optional 10 pin stick ribbon connector
MC16G-5-ND 5 ft 2.60 Grey flat IDC cable Ribbon cable
MC16M-5-ND 5 ft 4.62 Colored flat IDC cable Rainbow colored ribbon cable
HKR10H-ND 1 0.50 10 pin IDC connector for optional 10 pin stick ribbon connector
HKR16H-ND 0-4 2.76 16 pin IDC connector One for Output header, one for button ribbon connector
one for DC piggyback, one for Xbox360 piggyback.
Price is for four.
WM2004-ND 1 0.53 6 pin molex crimp connector required is using the 6 pin stick connector option
WM1114-ND 10 0.74 molex crimp pins Price is for all ten. Required if using 6 pin stick connector option

48

gotta love the TM on the pcb bro, Excellent.

49

Nice work Toodles. Check your PM bro.

50

Well, I finally got a chance to test it on a PS3, but had limited success. X and O worked on the dashboard, but nothing else worked anywhere. The X and O working is a pretty good sign that it just needs a little tweaking. None of the stores I can find anywhere will rent a PS3, so I’m a little stuck.

I added EJP (Atari Jaguar and some Atari PC’s) support and 3DO support. I cant test the Jaguar, but I will be able to test the 3DO support as soon as I get some more hoods in the mail which should be Monday.

I’m starting work on trying to get Xbox support going. I’m quite the USB noob, so I’m doing the work outside of the UPCB first, and will integrate it as soon as it’s working. No, there will not me any Live headphone support.

This is a total longshot, but I’m willing to do custom work if someone will loan me a PS3. I expect it would take 2 weeks MAX before the UPCB completely worked. Probably only a couple of days, but just in case, 2 weeks should be expected. So if anyone has the cajones, and I’ve got tons of references, I’ll install a UPCB in whatever stick you want, and even make a USB cable to go with it, so when I return the PS3 and stick after 2 weeks, you can plug and play it. If you need some other sort of custom work, let me know and I can probably do it.

51

where do you live toodles?

52

Blowme Imaho = Boise, Idaho

53

oh :confused:

if you were in cali id lend you mine :[

54

Funny, you don’t look like a white supremacist.

55

Long sleeves, they cover up the the swastika tattoos.

(Holy hell, this USB stuff for xbox is gonna take a while. This is some complicated shit.)

56

Keep up the good work Toodles very interested in this I was going to build a Stick but have to decided to wait for this.

57

Bad Ass!

Since the attempt with the Pelican adapter descriptor didnt work, I reset the code back to the Radio Shack PSX->USB adapter so I could try it out. Hot damn it worked. Response in VF5 training with input display on was solid. I didnt get to test long, but I can tell you that it did work on the dashboard, and in VF5. I attempted to check BC with VF4:Evo, but couldn’t get past the point where it asked to load a file. Niether directions or buttons would respond at that point. I can’t say for sure if he had the 1.7 update, but the fact VF5 and the dashboard worked make me damn happy.

I REPEAT, PLAYSTATION 3 SUPPORT IS TESTED AND CONFIRMED!

I also got to test SNES support at his house, which worked perfectly. Because the code for SNES and NES are almost identical, Im willing to consider the NES completely working as well.

The Radio Shack code used with the PS3 above will be reintroduced, and the Pelican code disabled in the next 1.2 release. If you can’t wait (HA! Like anyone else has actually built one of these…) then use the 1.0 hex file.

I’ve got the pictures taken and uploaded, and beginning the writing of an Instructables.com section for building a cable for UPCB, using SNES as the example. When the fabbed PCB’s get in, I’ll bo doing another one for its construction.

(Dude, it fucking worked!)

58

hell yesss :rock:

59

hot damn indeed
when do you think a final product will be introduced? i have a couple sticks i was gonna build to sell and im pondering postponing them

60

Whadya mean by final? As long as work continues to include support for new systems or improve support for old system, or adding/tweaking features, it won’t every be ‘final’. The schematic is final, and allows for a bunch of different options with the extra input line and two extra in or out lines; those options will likely vary from stick to stick. Frankly, none of those are really used in the software yet.

Since the schematic is final, all of the changes will be in ‘firmware’, which can be updated a UPCB USB cable. All of the cables that are supported have been mapped out, and will not change; I did have to move a couple around when implementing 3DO support, but I will never change the pinout of a system once its supported. In short, build the hardware. Build the cables. They will always work. The only changes will be in software upgrades.

If you mean ‘when can I get something to install in the sticks from you?’, then the answer is as early as a couple of weeks. The PCB order went in last week, and if the time my last order took is any indication, I should have them in my hands in 1-2 weeks from now. The parts needed are already listed above, and the instructables page will show how to assemble it. If you still want me to assemble it, I can, but expect to pay out the nose for it. Its boring and time consuming. Frankly, assembling them yourself is fun, as I found out assembling Inchworm PIC debugger kit. Troubleshooting can be frustrating, but very rewarding when you figure it out.

IF YOU ARE IN THE SLIGHTEST BIT INTERESTED IN PLAYING WITH A UPCB, CREATE AN ACCOUNT ON MICROCHIP.COM, AND ORDER SAMPLES OF THE PIC, SPECIFICALLY THE 18LF4550 I/P.

Those bastards cost over $13 if ordered from Digikey. Do everyone a favor and get some for free from the source. You can get up to 3 each of 4 different models, up to twice per month. Also get the 18LF4455 I/P ; its the same chip with a 2/3 of the memory; Since Im only using like 1/4 of the program memory and RAM, everything should fit in there fine. Get some 12F683 I/P and 18LF1330 I/P to round it all out; either use them to learn PIC programming, or send them to me as a tip to toy around with :slight_smile:

If you get some sampled, and send them to me as part of an order for the pcb when it gets here, I’ll certainly discount the cost of the pcb if you let me use the extras in other orders.

So go, signup for accounts, and sample some free goods. They should be here before the PCBs are, and it beats paying $13 to anybody for them.

61

i ment as in like when can i start making a stick
build this pcb
and use your firmware?

pics are very welcomed