Go ahead and leave the PROG pins shorted.
There are only two other things I can think of before sending you another PIC. The two purple points are the D+ and D- wires; the main USB pins. On the USB plug, you’ll see four pins under the metal hood; the two on the outside are a little longer than the two in the middle. The two in the middle go to those purple points. Can you check the resistance between those and the two purple points? Just find the resistance to whatever one shows an actual value; it should be around 22 Ohms so the lowest setting on your multimeter should do it. You may need to use a unbent paper clip or such to get to the pins inside the shroud; touch the paper clip to the pins inside, and the multimeter probe to the paper clip.
And of course, try it on another PC is ones available. But if the the pins are showing like you said, and the USB wires are connected to the purple points, then I may have fucked up and sent you an unprogrammed chip.
Quick question / clarification: on the first post’s pic of the v2 layout, point C2 is unlabeled, but it should be a 0.1uf capacitor, right? And the PTC goes in point F1? I’m finally getting the time to put these kits together and wanted to be sure on those before I screw up
Apparently the newer models of first-party Xbox360 wired controllers use a common line setup (not common ground) instead of matrix. How difficult would it be to mod one of those to piggyback on the UPCB setup?
Rather annoyingly the new wireless ones are common ground (and also easier to identify due to being able to see some of the PCA through the battery area). Le sigh…
Without having one here to poke at with a stick, I can’t tell you anything with 100% certainty. That having been said, it shouldn’t be too hard, but would require 2-3 hex inverter chips (74XXX04’s, same as the ones used in the light up LOD mods). Each button line from the UPCB goes to the input of an inverter, and the output goes to the line on the wired 360 pad.
With the announcement of the HRAP for 360 today, I’ll definitely be working with those PCBs in the near future. I hope to pick a few up, install the UPCB alongside the existing 360 PCB, and hope some seriously awesome sticks available.
First post updated, version 1.A is out. (yeah, so Im counting in hex, There are some features I want to have for 2.0, so Im procrastinating kicking up the major number)
Changes:
-Gamecube Smash Brothers advanced and basic modes: Select button taunt changed to Up from down to match the SSB Melee taunt.
-Gamecube Smash Brothers Basic mode: A+Shield presses Z button instead of the two separate buttons.
-Gamecube normal mode: When Select is held, arcade stick controls the C-stick.
-Full tested Saturn support. Works on real hardware and all tested converters.
-Sega Genesis support. Works as a six button Geny controller by default, tested in Streets of Rage 2 and SF:NC. In case any games freak out, holding Select when plugging in will force three button mode, just like the original controllers did. Note: Because of the difficulty in responding fast enough, Genesis support does not include button remapping. This will likely be added later, but its a very low priority.
Beautiful, another update! I got my UPCB together and tested last night and it worked great. Now I can reflash it again, and gain yet more console support! With the addition of 6 button Genesis, I’m pretty much set.
Thanks a lot Toodles, your continual testing and updating and work on this is awesome
EDIT: Downloaded fine now. Looking forward to testing out the Genesis and full Saturn support! Just as soon as my db15 hoods come in at least :wgrin:
If you mean compared to the matrixed one, its a big difference. For twelve signal lines, you’d be looking at 2 inverters vs 3x 4066n chips and 2 inverters. For more than twelve lines (to include Guide button and triggers) you’re looking at 3 inverters versus 4x 4066n chips and 3 inverters.
Hope the inverter do the trick for you; definitely let us know.
Because neither Digikey nor Mouser carry the MAX4611. I can get up to three free from sampling from Maxim-IC, but can’t reliably buy them. 7404’s and 4066’s are made by a whole bunch of companies, and carried everywhere.
But you’re right, using the MAX4611’s is a bit simpler. All the MAX4611 is is a 4066 with inverted inputs. If I could get them cheap from Digikey, hell ya, I’d be all over it.
Ah, I see. That makes sense. I mostly deal with ICs at work, where getting the things is no issue. Though they only sometimes let me purchase stock off them, and most of the time I’m left having to go to a store like anyone else.
Just doing the piggy-back operation with the 360 controller, and since I have the v1.0 UPCB, I don’t have the handy RB4 for the guide button - is this (or anything else due to the v1.0 board) likely to cause problems with the 360? Presumably the applications of the guide button are limited enough to not be a big deal if I don’t have the functionality to press it?
Also, there isn’t much space for 2 pcbs in an agetec case, is there?
edit: actually, far more alarmingly, now that I’ve soldered everything together for the 360, now I have ~3.5kohm resistance between gnd and vcc (i.e., not infinite resistance!) Even when I disconnect everything from the UPCB (bare pcb) and test across VCC and GND, I get a reading of ~3.5kohm! I’ve searched and searched the board but can’t find any bridges or anything, indeed I didn’t even do any work on the UPCB itself… any ideas?
Not having the RB4 line wont be a problem. If you want to have something to trigger the Guide button, you can get a single NOR gate, have the select and start/RB0 lines going to the inputs, and the output going to the guide button.
Or, you know, run a wire from RB4 to the Guide button along with the ribbon cable. The spots marked in pink are the places you can solder a wire to for the RB4 signal. Connect one end of wire to a pink spot, other to Guide, make sure you’re using latest firmware, and Start and Select will trigger the guide button.
By itself with no buttons pressed, there should be infinite resistance between VCC and ground. Does the reading you get fluctuate? Because of the capacitors, it should show an increasing resistance as the capacitors get charged, but it should quickly approach infinity. 3.5k-ish ohms is also what you would expect if three of the buttons or directions were pressed (assuming 10k ohm resistors were used for pull ups.) If thats the only quirk, I wouldn’t worry about it; plug it in and see how well it works. 3.5k ohms would only be one milliamp of current.
EDIT: Oh god Im a freaking moron. I thought you meant the UPCB had that. You mean you show 3.5k ohm resistance on the 360 board? Yes, you’re going to. I’m guessing you removed the pots and replaced them with two 10k resistors? That resistance is because of the analog potentiometers.
First up, no, you were correct, it’s the UPCB board with nothing attached to it (no ribbon cables to buttons/360/cable etc) that is showing 3.5k resistance across Vcc/GND. No fluctuation in value, either - perfectly stable. Suppose I should take to it with some compressed air, just in case there’s a tiny wire somewhere or something… very odd though!
I’ll try plugging it into an expendable computer first, I think…
There are some features I want to have for 2.0, so Im procrastinating kicking up the major number)