The UPCB’s chip, the 18LF4550, is not going to change. He was using a 2550 for his work.
Frankly, the only difference between a 2550 and a 4550 is the 4550 has more pins, 40 vs 28. Memory, storage, onboard peripherals, all the same. The datasheet for one is the same datasheet as the other. Any code for the 2550 uses should be insanely easy to port, if any work is needed at all; likely just changing pin assignments.
Any updates on the to-do list, Toodles?
I’ll post when I have progress.
as soon as dc support makes it im picking one of these up
Ok, FINALLY got around to finishing off my UPCB that I’ve had kicking around for around a year now… successfully built the USB cable as per the instructable, tested and working (trickiest bit was the cable going from the UPCB to the 15 dsub for the console cable, I had a pre-made cable but it was wired up wrong, doh!).
My question, after looking through some docs in the UPCB.zip, is that there are three systems using USB cables (PC, PS3, button select cable), all with separate wiring for the db15 hood (high/low combinations). Does this imply that the USB plug I made for PC will not work on the PS3? If not, is there some cunning-ass way I can make it so that one cable can be used on both, since both plug ends will be the same? Obviously it’s not easy to put a switch in a back-shell…
Cheers,
–flux
The button select cable is the recommended one to make. When I get a separate function for PC and PS3 and whatever other USB systems I can get supported, they will all be able to use that cable, and different button combinations when plugged in will say with USB method to support (thus, ‘button select’). When I can test my xbox360 piggybacking, it will also use that cable, and as you’ve already seen, the cable works for the firmware updating already. If you made the button select cable, there’s no reason to make any other USB ones. If you used one of the other pinouts, for the time being, there is no difference, but changing the pins to match the button select is recommended.
Cool, guess I missed that bit of the documentation. TYVM 
No problem, and definitely post pics, and of course any criticism. I’ll be done with finals in a week and a half and will have a LOT more time to work on improving the UPCB then.
I’m very interested in this (simultaneous USB and Playstation). Does the USB support PS3? If not, can you use an adapter on the Playstation side for PS2–>PS3? How do cords work on the outside? 360 Support w/piggybacking would also be nice but isn’t absolutely necessary.
Amazing project going on here, hope for the best on the remaining consoles that this project still doesn’t support by itself
Btw can a JDM2 style programmer be used to program a 18LF4550, winpic800 supports 18F4550 but i don’t see a 18LF4550
If it can do a 18F4550, it can do an LF4550. Only difference is the LF4550 works over a wider voltage range than the regular F4550 does. (both work peachy at 5v, but the LF works all the way down to 2v, so works better on the 3.3v Playstation systems than the regular F4550. Check the electrical characteristics in the 4550 datasheet for details.) Most of my programming is now done on an ICD2 clone, but I made the first few using a very cheapo JDM programmer from Olimex.
When piggybacking a madcatz 360 pad, I have to solder resistors on the triggers if I want to use them, correct?
Correct. You also want to make sure that the triggers are active low (connecting it to ground makes it pressed). Im pretty sure the madcatz micrcon-ish pad is like this.
Are you just preparing for this, or are you getting ready to do this? The code for piggybacking is already in, but I need to add to it so there will be a separate line for the guide button (so start+select=guide) and so it can use the regular USB button select cable.
I haven’t even hooked up buttons to the UPCB yet, much less anything for the piggyback, so you’ve got time. Considering SFHD is at least 2 months away I’ll be playing on GGPO well before I hook this up to my 360.
Thanks Toodles
Anyways I’m new to all of this stuff such as capacitors and resistors
Anyways i was wondering if a part requires 100F 25V cap, will a 100F 35V cap work the same way or should i try to find 100F 25V cap. radioshack sells 100F 35V cap but according to an instructable on making a JDM2 programmer i need 100F 25V.
also any suggestions on printing the circuit layout on a breadboard
@Toodles, could you post the circuit layout used for the fabbed PCBs please?
For capacitors, you want to match the Farad rating (100uF) and meet or exceed the voltage rating (25V, so 35V is just fine). For resistors, you want to match the resistance rating (Ohms) and meet or exceed the wattage rating. For almost any digital circuit like most projects you see online, they dont even bother giving the wattages because its so low and any 1/4W or 1/8W resistor will work fine.
Keep it simple for starters. Start with the main PIC piece in the upper left and get all of that implemented. ICSP is helpful, but can be skipped if you can program the PIC elsewhere. Piggyback connectors can be skipped, as can the piggyback router chip (4066N). Decide if you want to use the DB-15 for output directly with the DB-15 soldered on the board itself, or if you want a 16 pin IDC connector on the board and use a short ribbon cable piece like the motherboard
like this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/SQRKAN2F23Z33Q9/
So, main PIC and supporting components, the way to connect your DB-15, the way to connect your buttons, and the way to connect your stick.
Schematic is in the first post; gerber or eagle files for the boards are not available.
lol thanks but what i meant was if i had an eagle file or something(or made one up) what would be the best way of printing the circuit on the circuit board/copper
but the info is still quite useful, imma end up using ICSP so i can use this
( http://www.instructables.com/id/EUZMUDM6C2EWT14B55/(BTW if anyone is gonna use this tutorial you gonna have to switch the data and clock lines) ) to burn the bootloader
oh and a suggestion, maybe you can have 4 presets for each console. Like maybe hold programming button and select, then up(preset 1), down(preset 2), left(preset 3), or right(preset 4). changing the presets will be the same as before(Hold the button you want to remap, press the programming button, hold down the buttons you want the original button to be (or none if you want the button disabled), release the programming button.)
How are you planning on connecting the DB15, buttons, and stick? Single sided or double sided copper?
Toodles, do you have recommendations for where to get rainbow 20 pin ribbon cable and DB15 connectors/hoods?
I can’t remember where you said you get yours, and if possible do you have part numbers?
Didn’t you get a kit from me? It should have come with the rainbow ribbon cable. As for the hoods and DB15’s for making cables, most good computer stores and Radio Shack’s have them, but the hoods you usually see are pretty cincy. The ones I use I really like are Digikey part number 972-15SY-ND (that’s for the yellow one. They come in black, grey, red and yellow. You can view the catalog page they’re on here: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T082/P0283.pdf ) Digikey part number for the male DB15 for the cable is 215ME-ND. Digikey has a $25 order minimum or they hit you with an extra $5 handling fee, so I stocked a few if youd rather get a couple from me; see the trading outlet post.
Finals should be done by Tuesday, and a couple of days decompression and I’ll be back to work by next weekend.