Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.)!

What would be better, using a toodles or PS360+ PS2 board, or using a real PS2 controller pad hacked. The reason the pad hacked one would be better is because the Tototek Genesis adapter ONLY works with a real PS2 controller, and not one of these ethernet boards, due to the ninth pin on DB9 lacking on the ethernet.

The second concern is whether I can find someone to wire the LS and RS in a digital manner manually. A couple people can do it, but I’ve been pissing them off for being long. If I can, then the obvious answer is a PS2 pad hack. If not, I need a D-pad to LS/RS converter found on a toodles or a PS360+, assuming most of these adapters that are PS2-> other systems work well with Tooldes and PS360+.

That’s if you can even find a ps360+, Paradise Acade Shop has the MC Cthulhu in stock sometimes. If you set up the Notify Me thing with your email it will tell you when it gets back in stock. Ps2 padhacks are probably the most viable option. Alternatively you can just padhack a genesis controller to work with the UDUSB.

Hi. I have zero experience with the UD-USB. So, can someone please point me to some explanatory image on how to use it with, say, a McCthulhu (or another common-ground PCB, I suppose)? By this I also mean the wiring… I’m particularly in the dark about the GND and +5V terminals. Please assume I know nothing. I would probably order wiring as close to what is needed as possible online.

A photo may be very helpful. :stuck_out_tongue:

PS: I did check out the manual at http://udgametech.blogspot.com .

Thanks!

First you’ll have to tell us what you’re actually looking to achieve. :slight_smile:

:slight_smile:
Being able to use my Arcade controllers that are equipped with a Brook UFB on legacy platforms (mainly PS2 and SNES) with very little lag (the UD-USB is supposed to add only 2 ms, then there’s the “output PCB” - e.g., Mc Cthulhu). Installing a Brook Retro Board on each of my controllers is more than I’m willing to do. I have a Mc Cthulhu with RJ-45 mod lying around. If it works out, I may get a Brook Retro for a second converter in the future.

It’s pretty straightforward.

Think about it in sections:

  1. Your current controller takes in discrete inputs (your buttons) and outputs in USB…
  2. … which connects to the USB input on the UD-USB, who then decodes that into discrete outputs (individual button signals)…
  3. … which connect to the individual inputs to the MCC, who then combines all those into a USB/RJ-45 output…
  4. … which is then connected to your console of choice.

Just remember that all PCBs must be connected together (Vcc/Gnd) all at once. And you’ll need to make sure that the controller port of your console can provide enough power to keep the MCC, UD-USB and your controller of choice powered on. As far as I know, PS2s (and maybe PS1s?) don’t output 5V on the Vcc line, but instead run 3.3V. I’m not sure if that’ll cause any problems.

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Thanks, but I don’t know about the wiring. For example, if the ground signal (black wire) is supposed to be daisy-chained and connected to terminals all over. A visual explanation or photo with wiring on an actual UD-USB setup would be helpful… I’m looking to order wiring that is as close to being fool-proof for what I need as possible.

IIRC there’s a jumper for toggling between 3.3V and 5V on the UD-USB. I hope the board doesn’t die if the jumper is set to 3.3V and the source sends 5V. o.o’

PS: what is VCC?

But you’re only connecting two PCBs together. There’s no need to daisy-chain the ground line or anything else between the two.
Which UD-USB do you have? The larger screw-terminal one or the miniature with the DB-15 plug?

Neither yet, but the screw-terminal one is back in stock at PAS, so I thought to come here and ask questions. :stuck_out_tongue:

Vcc = the voltage/power line, aka “V”.
I’m not sure about the 3.3V/5V jumper. Never needed to play with that on my UD-USBs, but I don’t use them on PS1/PS2s either.

The connections are really straightforward:

Just connect the proper screw terminal to the associated screw terminal on the other PCB.
The only one you won’t need is the “TST” button on the UD-USB.

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So the terminals are: VCC, GND, UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, 1P, 2P, 3P, 4P, 1K, 2K, 3K, 4K, SELECT, START and HOME, i.e, 17 wires are needed. Do you recommend a colored wire pack for this setup? The closest I found is this 16-wire pack: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home/electrical/wire-and-power/wire-sets/703_16-wire-rainbow-packtm-with-110-quick-connector , but the quick connects aren’t suited for a UD-USB->McCthulhu setup and I would simply remove them.

I imagine so, but: there’s no way for the UD-USB to recognize the L3, R3 or TouchPad Click buttons, right? :stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks!

Seems like a bit of a waste to buy a pre-crimped wire pack just to gut for the wires, but that’s just me.

And you’re right, L3, R3, Touchpad and any of the analogs aren’t outputs on the UD-USB, so you can’t use those.

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nevermind.

Whoa, it seems the UD-USB product page has been removed from PAS…! O_o

The URL used to be https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home/electrical/pcbs-lighting/pcbs-for-controllers/undamned-usb-decoders/1491_undamned-usb-decoder-plus-by-ud-game-tech , and searching for it on the website doesn’t help.

Hello, @undamned,

I managed to get one of your screw terminal USB decoders last month, and it works great. Thanks so much for making these! Are there any plans to release more to Paradise Arcade Shop? Haven’t seen them in stock since I ordered mine, I think. Gotta cover player 2 now (change of plans, and I like this thing too much anyway, so I want another one). I’d especially love to get the DB15 version to save a little trouble but don’t mind doing another screw terminal setup either.

Thanks again!

Unfortunately, Undamned doesn’t really visit SRK much these days. He actually just got some to PAS last week, if I’m not mistaken, but they probably sold out quickly as usual.
Follow both of them (undimmed and Paradise Arcade Shop) on Twitter to get the fastest updates as to when they get restocked.

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Thank you very much for the update and tips, Gundam-San! I will do that.

The UD-DB15’s are now available! Just snagged one:

I haven’t designed PCB design drawing. Can you share it with me