@Atari Could you share the settings you use on the Framemeister for ST using RGB via the mini-din? I can’t quite get the picture to look proper.
Sorry for the delay ShinJN, I just saw this. I’m just using the stock Framemeister settings with a couple tweaks but let me take a look and I’ll run through them and list them out. (One thing I’m not doing btw is introducing scan lines but it’s something I’ve considered, though I think the standard is NO scan lines in like any ST stream at this point.) One very important thing that I’ve found is to make sure you’re getting a good, clean, strong signal into the Framemeister. In other words, it may not be about the Framemeister settings in your case; it may be about the source feed.
If you’re using a Jasen’s Customs supergun for steam, one thing I’ve noticed, and I’ve been meaning to shoot Jasen a message on this to see if he agrees with my conclusion and if there’s anything we might be able to do about it, is that the 8-pin RGB feed off the back of the supergun has a signal that’s somehow not as bright and looks a bit dirty. It’s hard to describe but if you see it and compare with a direct clean feed, you’ll notice a difference. Same goes with all the other video outputs on the back panel actually.
I tested this out by opening the supergun and grabbing a component feed directly off the Jrok video encoder (the RCA ports are still on it), and then comparing the quality with a connection to the jacks on the back of the supergun (using the same TV and cable). The back panel feeds are indeed all a bit “dirtier” for lack of a better word, and I suspect this has to do with the fact that all the video passes through an additional PCB board within the supergun. I also tested by taking RGB off my Lemony setup (which comes off the board directly when you have RGB selected, or at least through the Jrok RGB out) into the Framemeister and comparing with Jasen’s model. There too, the latter was dirtier.
Not sure if there will be a solution other than opening the thing and connecting wires directly, but first thing I’d like to do is bring it to Jasen’s attention to see if he agrees (in other words, to ensure I’m not going crazy 
). But another way to test this is if you have a Jamma cable with RGB outputs built in (like you had at SCR) - if you connect that cable (which feeds directly from the board and not through any additional PCBs) into a PVM, and feed the back panel RGB output directly to a PVM (via 8-pin to BNC or to SCART then BNC depending on what cables you have available) you’ll likely see the same issue.
I’ll reach out to Jasen but in the meantime I’ll try to get you those Framemeister settings in the next several days.
I noticed this too! I thought it was just me. The problem is also the power supply. I changed it out and the picture got cleaner, but still is lesser in quality as compared to the ProGamer supergun.
Some Arcade boards just have “noise” on their video outputs, and this varies from different video boards.
The peak voltage levels on the RGB and Sync lines tend to be on the high side as well.
Since RBG and Sync lines are analog signals, it is hard to get a good reading with a multimeter as your readings with jump around with the oscillation of the waves of those analog signals.
An Oscilloscope would be a better tool to get proper readings but I don’t have access to one.
I am looking into the issue myself, the Jrok does what it needs to for Composite, Component and S-video.
I know people who put some attenuation on those lines to get them down and back to NTSC/Pal standards.
Make sure your video cables are shielded, as long runs of wires tend to act as antennas and pick up any Electromagnetic interference.
Shielded cables, and sometimes adding a ferrite core to the cable makes a huge difference.
Jasen already have pots on the RGB lines (as each board gives out different levels).
What I done to my Super Gun is added a 470Ω resistor and a 10µF cap to the sync line. Keep in mind my Supergun setup is to dedicated Neo Geo use and I use a MVH-MV1T 1 Slot MVS board. So your own results will vary. The Resistor is to get the voltage down closer to standard levels video input levels for consumer equipment. The Cap is for DC current coupling, to filter out any AC current.
I sorta repeat the process on my RGB lines with a 75Ω Resistor and a 220 µF capacitors. The Capacitors do boost the voltage levels a little bit as well, but in the scale of millivolts.
Since the later Jasen Hicks MK 30 ADCAP supergun already has adjustable pots on the RGB lines (I forgot if they are 500Ω or 1000Ω) it would not be that hard to stick those caps into a scart connector or something.
I started a thread on video attenuation on Superguns if we dont want to derail the thread away from the topic of Consolized CPS2
Are these still available to order? Any other options? Been trying to get a Super Turbo cabinet and just discovered the whole suspergun thing and it seems like a better option instead of trying to find a whole arcade cab which has been impossible so far for me.
I would love to get my hand on a diy kit so I can do a CPS3 rig.
From previous page: UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2
I’ll consider doing a CPS3 kit, once I’ve finished the CPS2 kit design. Marqs (OSSC designer is looking into making an HDMI board for both CPS2 and CPS3).
-ud
I heard something about that from Retro RGB a while back
Nice good to hear. I’ll redo mine once its out. My current setup is a modify superbios in no CD mode and an angle card holder, 2 strip down converter, a neo geo video converter and a pico psu. It would be nice to have once pcb for sale both usb converter though
So did these kits ever become available for sale or is there any sort of ETA?
I can handle the PSU on my own if I had to and I will be using RGB out to my PVM-20L5 so I don’t need a video board. I could probably sort out interfacing the controls on my own as well, but what I really want is that panel that has the controller ports!
The electronics and soldering parts don’t bother me - its the more artistically inclined parts that I fear. I am a perfectionist, and I am scared to cut any holes that are not round because I don’t trust that I can get them perfect without jagged edges, gaps, or crooked ports.
I even considered wiring mine up using PC Engine controller ports - because they are round - and building an adapter to convert USB or Neo Geo controllers to the PC Engine mini din controller port, but that panel is way better and just plain sexy.
That panel that covers the jamma connector and kick harness and has the precut controller ports is just beautiful! I needs one lol!
Just so that there’s no confusion: if you read up in the thread completely, you’ll notice that the front panel doesn’t actually cover the JAMMA connector and the kick harness.
The JAMMA connector is cut shorter, and the kick harness has been desoldered off to make way for the PCB where the USB ports are mounted on.
Yea I was just trying to be specific about the location, i guess I should have said “plate that covers where the jamma and kicks WERE”
But thanks for the response
Poop in one hand and wish in the other
which one fills up first.
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You are simultaneously the biggest helper and shitposter on techtalk DS lol.
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That shit made me laugh so hard I snorted hot coffee through my nose. Thanks for that 
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I had to.
Such a opportunity don’t come often.
But to be serious, I think Undammed is just bogged down. He stop making the Undammed CPS2 mods himself as he often lacked time.
Still working on it. I occasionally post updates on Twitter (therealundamned) and https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/. Hoping to bring a demo to EVO, but prolly won’t go up for sale until late this year. This is my first time posting on this version of the forum. Strange.
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Thanks for the update man. Might have to make a twitter just to keep up with the project.