UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

There’s an article about this on Eurogamer currently.

This is an amazing thing you’re doing here. I hope you don’t get burned out on it.

I tried to give you and some other people shout outs in the interview, but I guess that’s not really the style of the article, so they didn’t make the cut :frowning: You work on the faceplate is still very dear to me :smiley:
-ud

Don’t even worry about it, mate, the faceplate was but a tiny part of it compared with the time and work you’ve put in. Congratulations on the article, you must be really chuffed. :smile:

Undamned I read the article and learned a bit about cps2 and the significance of what you are doing. Keep up the amazing work, hopefully I’ll have enough in my ud-cps2 fund to shoot you a pm someday before you stop doing this.

I need one of these for Alpha 2, I just ordered the A+B board and was gonna do a super gun, but I’m thinking this is a better option.

Thanks!

Better go the supergun route. It is ulikely I will be building any new orders this year (huge backlog of old orders, not much time, etc.).
-ud

Thanks for the heads up.

Hey @undamned , did you ever release any additional info on your DC-DC converter that you mention in your first post? :slight_smile:

Are these still being looked at? I wouldn’t having something like this for my Supergun.

Hey, guys. I have not released any info on these, as I got way side-tracked w/ getting the decoders out there and available since that’s what most of the clamor was about. Just know that they only put out +5 and +12 volts. No -5V, so if you build them into a supergun which you wish to use a huge variety of boards on, chances are you are going to encounter a game that needs -5V for its audio amp or something. I’ll see about putting together a data sheet for them and making them available this year.
-ud

Email sent.

any issue with using PicoPSUs as a power source? that way, not only will you get -5V, you could possibly also get 3.3V for JVS gaming.

EDIT

Just re-looked, -5v isn’t available with the stock config, BUT that’s nothing a Negatronwon’t fix.

Ouch $20 to get -5V? I’d throw that on my board for $5, if I needed it, but I don’t.
-ud

I’ve used a PicoPSU to power a Naomi, and had no issues. I’m presuming I wouldn’t have any issues with one in a Supergun or consolized CPS2 either, but it’d probably be way more economical to wait for undamned to release his converter.

That’s ok, skip the -5V for now. Just give us the board with the +5V/+12V! :smiley:

it seems that with the UD-USB, and this rumored DC-DC board, the only thing that’s missing is the RGB to HDMI scaler. I’ve found a few out there, but I don’t want to drop $40+ to be met with some pretty heinous frame lag issues. Maybe using a JROK would be best.

sorry, off topic, I know.

I would venture to say any $40 scaler is guaranteed to be rubbish. There are multiple scaler projects going on right now on a few forums which look very promising. Ballpark seems to be sub $100 for lag free (the output lines are being written while the input lines are being read, so no need for a frame buffer) scaling. Won’t have all the whizbang features and flexibility of an XRGB or other high end scaler, but if it fits the application, the performance should be amazing.
-ud

I just re-read the entire thread and realized that you’re not using HDMI.

smacks forehead

oops :tongue:

and I agree with you. I’ve worked with some real garbage in the past and I’m really leaning into getting a Framemeister (XRGB MINI) for use on HD screens.

Oh my HD TV since it has VGA input I went with a XRGB 2 Plus.
Only issue is the XRGB2 Plus only does 640x480 VGA, but my TV has a good DAC so any effect from upscaling is not noticed.

once im back from japan I’m definitely purchasing one… and courtesy of my xrgb mini… I look forward to playing my copies of X-men vs sf , ST and alien vs predator on my setup