Not unless you had me consolize an Asia A board. Default A boards I use are USA/JAPAN. ASIA boards are physically incompatible with USA/JAPAN. They use different connectors, so it won’t even fit proper.
-ud
October builds shipping out soon:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee311/undamned_photobucket/UD-CPS2/th_DSC08596_zps1bc50696.jpg
-ud
Button Config:
Hold down the six buttons you want to use while plugging in the usb. wait for the light by the usb plug to flash. once it starts flashing, hit jab, strong, fierce, short, forward, rh in that order.
Got mine yesterday. Works perfectly and am loving it so far!
What is the word with PS1/2 pads using a USB converter? I tried a PS2 pad with a USB converter, and directional inputs would work, but as soon as I pressed a button the light started blinking orange.
Are PS1/2 pads supported in this way at all? Or do I need a different converter? All of the pad players I know want to use PS1 pads for the most part.
Thanks!
Also thanks again MrWizard for helping me out with button configuration, haha.
Glad you like it!
Well, I haven’t focused much on converters. My interface doesn’t know what’s on the other end of a converter (PS1/PS2), so I don’t technically support PS1/PS2. I know Ganelon (ST player) and a few others have been using converters fine, but I don’t know which ones.
The short answer regarding converters at this point is: your milage may vary!
I’ll try and drum up a list of converters that work at present and also look more into this for future firmware updates.
-ud
I tested my converter again, with my PS2 pad, PS1 Analog and PS1 Digital pads. It turns out I was a bit off before. It registers the directions AND button presses for a moment, but then starts flashing orange after about 3 seconds.
The one I have is pictured here, it is just some generic one you can get from ebay:
There are no identifying labels of manufacturing on it, so you’ll just have to know from looks that it does not work.
Also my USB Saturn Pad gives immediate flash orange when I plug it in. I’ll look into using that tool you have in the other thread.
The problem with those generic converters (and PC USB pads in general) is that there are a bazillion different button configs. I have 1 or 2 here, but I think I gave up on them when I realized the sky was the limit and just stuck with PS3/X360. At some point I may go back through my PC USB pads and converters and just pick the few most common configs and support those.
It’s been a while since I defined my port LED indications, but I think I defined flashing orange as “not supported”, so that’s funny that it would start out working and then fail. Like I said, your mileage may vary 
-ud
WAIT WAIT WAIT…
I didn’t know about this!
How much are they? Are they still available to order?
Add me to the list of those interested in the standalone USB->Discrete PCBs.
Whenever you have it ready.
Yup, no prob. Gonna try and order circuit boards this week and get some out before Christmas. Keep your toes crossed!
-ud
I’m definitely wanting some of those USB->Discrete PCBs, at least enough for 2 controllers/sticks.
Out of curiosity: would you be offering these PCBs with all the components in, but without any USB jacks or wire screw-terminals and whatnot? Not that it’s the biggest deal, I’d be looking to put those into a Supergun that already has USB jacks on it, so it’d just be a simpler install if I didn’t have duplicate ports.
my unit arrived yesterday, but haven’t tested it yet (I don’t have any ssf2x/game board).
gonna leave some pics/vids when I do
I had the opportunity to play on the cps2 today and I must say it is one quality product. My experience today definitely solidified my thoughts on buying one.
Jan cant come soon enough
Played a small Vampire Savior tournament at Super Arcade on this yesterday. Everybody keeps telling me how much better this feels to play on compared to console haha.
I tried out 2 PS1/2 to USB adapters while I was there. One was completely unresponsive, the orange light didn’t even turn on. The other seemed to work fine, only used it for about 1 minute but it seemed ok. I only tried it with a HRAP, and no pads though.
The one that worked was the Sumoto PS2 to PS3 Adapter you can see here: http://i.imgur.com/LBGDOkr.jpg
It seems pretty hard to find for sale anywhere online annoyingly enough.
Just got mine yesterday. Loving it!
So someone here in Toronto bought one of your boards (he doesn’t have a b board though). Itching to try it out with ST for casuals. Probably tomorrow. I have high hopes I’ll let you know what I/we think
I really need one of these in my life. I’m going to Japan in a few weeks and going to pick up some CPS2 boards just for this.
the consolized cps2 was pretty sick. I personally saw one hiccup but I might have imagined it since no one else saw it (just a tiny stutter with the graphics) buttons set up properly by default, clips on nicely to the B-board without the need for the metal clips (which I forgot to bring to his place), I find that without the jamma port , it was a TINY but harder to remove the b board from the A board, but i’m really just nitpicking.
Those metal clips aren’t needed period. They’re just sort of there as added latch security. B board can plop on just nicely without it.
@RagingAvatar, I PM’d you a while back. Check the FAQ in the OP for details. Still available, but backlogged.
@MarkMan, e-mailed your Madcatz address a few days ago.
Glad you liked it!
I think I know what you talking about. I’ve actually seen a small glitch on arcade ST (on cabs & UD-CPS2). It’s been a while since I’ve seen it, but i think it was something like 1 frame blanking out. Pretty rare, but I’ve seen it on multiple occasions (in person and in videos).
Ha! I don’t think I’ve ever tried to separate CPS2 boards by prying from that area!
There are differing opinions on this. For cabs it makes perfect sense being as the boards are mounted upright and you don’t want them separating when moving a cab around. For UD-CPS2, it depends on how worn the board connectors are. I have a 19XX board that has super worn connectors and getting a solid connection can be tricky. Clips can help in those situations. But in general, if the connectors are in good shape and the boards are sitting horizontal, you shouldn’t need clips.
-ud