Looking forward to seeing all of them finished up.
EDIT - Added 10 more photos to the detailing on top post.
Seeing wires directly soldered to the buttons makes Baby Jesus cry
Other than that good work
Oh Lukas… I would have used QDCs if I used a terminal strip. In this case where I knew I’d be the only one working on the XB1 KI SEs, I didn’t see an issue with soldering directly to the buttons. All other sticks will use QDCs.
In case people are wondering where the design for the panel art on those KI SEs came from.
EDIT - Added more photos to the detailing on top post.
Where did you get the lighted USB cables?
I’ve seen some that are amazon basics but those ones you have look nice
Any progress pics? Left: Not Complete; Right: Complete type of thing? Or are they going out as you finish them type of thing?
Each time something new has arrived or been completed I’ve posted about it and updated the main post. I’m not really doing before and after pics, as there’s not much point in me doing so. I’ve showed almost the entire break down, all the padhacking, rewiring, new parts, etc. Only thing I really have left is the plexis and art and those should be done no later than 2 weeks.
Edits on top post:
-Changed topic name to include “Tutorial” for example purposes
-Reorganized format to more accurate step by step process
-Re-edited all images
Basically, just re-read the entire OP. It’s been completely redone.
One thing I am curious about - I see that you have removed the turbo/home parts that go in the top left of the arcade stick and instead opted for the tactile switch inside the cable compartment. Are you going to leave that as a hole on the surface of the stick? I guess you could plug it somehow or let the decal cover it up. I think I’m gonna use a tactile switch for the home button on my mod as well, so I have no need to keep the plastic housing for the old pcb present on my stick, and I wondered what your plan was for that. If all else fails I could just leave it in and have the turbo + home button there with no function, but hopefully I can do something that looks clean.
If you’re buying a custom plexi to put over custom artwork then you just get the plexi and artwork without the turbo area cut out and it will be like the turbo area never existed.
Ahh makes sense, thank you. I’ve been trying to think of custom artwork I might like on my Round 2 over the default which I think looks decent. I guess I can just leave the non-functioning turbo and home buttons in until that happens.
Long overdue update. Info posted below as well as edited on the original post in the thread.
Plexi and artwork for 10 of the 11 TE sticks as well as my personal TE stick are complete. I cracked one of the old plexis I had so there’s 1 more stick (Akuma 6 button) I can’t complete until I get a new plexi.
Photos aren’t the best due to lighting/dust/camera.
Plexis I’ve had for a while, and brand new artwork is via Art’s Hobbies at www.tek-innovations.com . Art has supplied the FGC with plexi since 2009 and everyone should show their support for his longevity and excellent customer service and buy from him. 
I love the attention to detail down to the color of the hex screws!
Thanks. I wish there were more colors but I did what I could with what options I had.
In the photos you can clearly see the hex screws, but in person the majority of them are pretty stealth, which was the idea.