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Kinda neat, but are you aware of this thread? http://shoryuken.com/f177/project-box-controllers-guide-modular-controllers-250323/

Also, you need to connect VCC somewhere in the DB-15, as if you were doing any other dual-PCB mod. That is, of course assuming, you’re keeping the TE PCB in the TE, and plant to connect the DB-15 to project boxes. If not keeping the TE PCB in there, then you’re fine.

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This is for make easy swap of Control Panel.
There is not need for VCC.

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Oh. Okay. That makes more sense. I didn’t get what was going on.

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Actually the tutorial was just made for making easily swappable custom panels for the TE. Because of the panels i am coming out with. Switching panel to panel on the TE may be a chore but if the buttons on each panel are wired to a DB 15 and connected to this DB 15 in the stick. It makes switching panels a breeze. So like you said it will be keeping the TE pcb in there. If you find any mistakes i may have made in this tutorial tho nerrage, please feel free to correct me. I know you have alot of knowledge on these forums and the last thing i want to do is mess someone up.

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Yep JDM got it right The second part of the tutorial will be coming soon

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Just to point out, you need VCC if you are going to use optical sticks.

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Ahh good point RT i will make a point of that.

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He always does :sad:

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Done and it works perfect for me

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I like what you’re doing here man we should put our heads together I got some plans for a standardized wiring harness to serve this same purpose.

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Yea man no doubt we have already been workin on stuff together so i dont see why we cant put out something pretty good. I really like this db15 connector harness, the only problem is if you cant solder then your SOL on this. Because i dont have a lot of time to play games at the moment any way i have been lazy and just using the one db15 wire harness for all my panels when i switch hahhaha

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Technically, based on the size chart, that’s a DE-15 connector. The “DB” prefix is reserved for the larger shell usually associated with the DB-25.

D-sub size chart with the common pin numbers associated with each.

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And now I know! And knowing is half the battle. I got a pie chart.

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Soldering will be a little easier if you use a non-high-density connector. But then, once you start with one kind of connector you’re pretty stuck with it.

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blue laser > red lasers

edit:

soldering job looks hard as fuck. not even a cunt hair of space in between each point =O

double edit:

bah sorry i cluttered up your thread.

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actually i would have rather used that in the tutorialbut i just got what they had at radio shack. I should let people know that if they use the 3 row kind that they should start on the bottom row and then flip over and go to the middle row.

may look hard but it really isnt. the trick is to tin the wire first and then stick in the contact and simply touch the soldering iron to the wire in the contact so the solder softens and connects for a nice tight connection

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A possible advantage of using a DA-15 connector is that you’ll end up making it more easily NEO-GEO/Supergun compatible if you use the appropriate pin layout. (http://www.etokki.com/image/userfiles/db15_laugh.PNG) Though that does require not connecting 2 of the buttons :/.

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Can’t you just make it so that the 2 extra buttons are unpowered when you plug it into a MVS?

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IIRC an actual MVS only has 4 button support, but doesn’t use 2 pins that people use for buttons, but TE sticks and the others have eight face buttons, but the 15 pins will only support 6.

I’ll try to research a little more, but a slick way to go would be some kind of edge connector on the button panel, and on the bezel. Then the wiring hookup happens when you mount the panel in the stick.

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I just stumbled across this thread today, and have just recently completed this same kind of process with DB25s so that my new custom sticks will be able to be swapped between Happ Competition, Happ Super, and Sanwa Octo Gate and Sanwa Square Gate panels. The whole reason I am on the forum right now is researching where I went wrong wiring up my CHIMP SMD to it.

Regardless the harness worked fine. I have the wiring zip tied to the panel and base of the stick to decrease wear on the wires, when switching panels. I definitely recommend going this route though.

Simple math and all, unplugging and replugging one cable instead of 15 per time…