I actually didn’t even use post-it notes. I used a thin piece of plastic wrapped in 2 layers of masking tape. The distance had to be identical. I think the height and width varied a little and that may have contributed to my issues.
Hmmm…Based on all the trouble everyone’s going through, I’m starting to think it’ll be a much better idea to go buy a Seimitsu LS-32-01 right off the bat instead of trying this mod.
The modification is for different types of games Ikagi-chan. Is for TvC, Melty Blood, MvC2, Fate Unlimited Codes, Guilty Gear and Arcane Heart. The mod is so it can be more like Happ/Il or Semitus LS-55-01. Because of the Neutral Position. Pros have different sticks for different games. For example, you cannot drag race with Toyota Camry. I mean u can but not very good.
The Seimitus LS-32-01 and Sanwa JLF-8Y is for Virtura Fighter, Third Strike, Tekken, SF4, Soul Cailbur, and CvS.
I didn’t try to imply that this wouldn’t help at all for certain games. But I wouldn’t quite go where you’re going shortman1243. I wouldn’t particularly say that a certain type of joystick was “meant” to be played on for certain games, unless you’re talking about SHMUPs in which case you’d have to be crazy not to agree that they’re better played on Seimitsu or iL joysticks (or if you’re a pad player, D-pad is better than analog sticks).
Honestly, I don’t think this mod was meant for any of the games you listed in particular either or even made with a specific game in mind. Rather, this mod I’m guessing was more to make a regular old Sanwa JLF feel more like a Seimitsu LS-32. And hence why I was feeling that all hassle of this mod considered, it’d be much less troublesome (though pricier no doubt) to just get oneself the genuine article.
I was going to attempt this awesome sounding mod, but when I thought about it further, I came to this conclusion:
If I still play at the arcades while utilizing this mod at home, maybe I would get used to the shorter throw, better responsiveness, etc. and not perform as well as when I’m at home.
Does anyone sort of get where I’m coming from?
What do you guys think about that?
Should I still do it?
P.S.
I also just got my octagonal gate in the mail and added it to my HRAP 2: SA for a more realistic arcade feel.
Depends how much you actually play in the arcade. Most tourneys are console based with people using their own sticks anyhow. Go for it. 
Oh, and I find 2 LS-33 springs a lot more enjoyable than a JLF/LS-33 spring. To each their own. Have fun with it!
Mod wasn’t worth it to me. I didn’t have a spring to put in but I doubt that would change it completely. The tap around the top part of the actuator sucked(made the switches stick a lot). The post it thing made it stick a lot too. I still have some around the bottom of the actuator(reduces throw, thats nice). I put Cherry micro switches in and thats a much better mod. Way more responsive and easier to activate and much faster.
Ultimate mod - no
cherry mod - yes
I only did the spring mod part of it all. Love the feel of it now. Cherry switch mod sounds interesting enough though.
lol, you did the only part I didn’t. Thats the one part that I really want to do(JLF is just to loose) but I’ll wait for my next stick order to get the spring.
That’s the one thing that would prevent a mod like this from reaching mass market: It requires a lot of tweaking in order to get it just right. For all it’s worth, I like the results I’m getting with the mod and I would advise people not to get discouraged with it. If you care enough to mod the Sanwa like that, you probably care enough to put the effort in to get it right for you.
I did the mod with termal-shrinking tube (dont know the actual name of that tube, it’s used in soldering to cover wires) instead of electric tape. IMO it’s way more reliable then tape.
I watched this video 3 times and I’m dreadful about doing this mod on my TE stick. i’m afraid that if I open it up, I can’t get it back together 
. I have a few questions:
- Can I pick the spring up at home-depot w/ the same part number?
- After putting the post-it note in, the red-cap thing was used. Was that already there on the microswitch or do I have to buy it? if so, what’s the part number and again can I get it at home-depot?
thanks,
Hello,
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I have no idea but you could try (I think I have measurements for the LS-33 spring somewhere…).
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Everything is included, you just need to put something small in there (like I did with the post-it).
can you please tell us what kind of heat shrink is it?
because someone on the forum tried it before, and reported that it feels squishy so he demodded it
sweet deal. the most concerning part was question #2, I didn’t know where that red-cap thing came from .
The spring, if home depot doesn’t it, no biggie, I can order it online.
The “Ultimate” Mod is really nice, it greatly improves the stock JLF. If you guys want to go 1 step further, instead of using the stock JLF micro switches, you can replace them with Happ Cherry Switches. With the Happ Cherries, you don’t need to do the post it insertion step, because Cherry switches are SO much more sensitive than stock JLF switches.
DSlayerZX, i dunno ) just regular heat shrink - it gets harder while shrinking, i can’t say end result is noticeably softer then orginal actuator, or electric tape for that matter. I used 2 layers of 9.5 mm tube for thinner part of actuator (tube has to be stretched a little to fit) and 1 layer 12.7 mm tube on thicker part of actuator.
Yeah, I was just talking about this on the last page. Overall it’s a better mod then the ultimate mod. I just need a tighter spring now.
Where would be the best place to get the Happ Microswitches?
I intend to get either the JLF or LS-32 (along with another LS-32 spring) from Lizardlick, yet they don’t carry the Happ Microswitch (I’m not too confident in the post-it step, I rather not mess around with the switches :P) -.-
Some of my notes on this mod:
- I used just as much paper in the microswitches as the video suggests, but it amounted to about 0.6-0.7mm in thickness.
- The tape on the thicker part of the actuator that hits the microswitches was unnecessary and messed up the mod for me, because it creates friction between the red tabs on the switches and the actuator.
- Even with very good electrical tape (I used Scotch 88) I needed to use universal glue to keep it together while playing. Even that was not enough. I put some superglue around the edges and now finally it is sticking together well. First make sure you have the right amount of tape, before you start glueing.
- Perfecting this mod is a sick task.