As jeenyus1 and DSlayerZX already mentioned, I’m interested in seeing how you did this mod as well. I’m looking for something a little more permanent than just electrical tape, even though that does work extraordinarily well. Can’t wait to see pics VOLTECH! :tup:
Anymore info?
On what?
a lot of people have this problem, especially considering that most of us have only switched from pads to sticks over the past few years. with pads we didnt have to experience dead zones, unresponsive microswitches, inaccurate motions. dont get me wrong, a perfect stick kills any perfect pad, but a good stick is damn near impossible to find.
There should be a small gap between the black spring cover thing and the top of the stick right (so you can see a big of the spring)? when you pull up on the stick that gap is covered and you can’t see the spring right?
…can’t remember what it looked like originally.
Thanks
I did this mod exactly according to the tutorial, except I didn’t use an extra spring.
The dead zone is pretty sick right now (like 1mm).
It plays fine, except sometimes it feels like the stick is a little slow at moving back to the center. I think it’s because my hand is still pushing it a little too hard due to the super high sensitivity.
So… I have ordered the LS-33 spring and I’ll be putting that in when I receive it.
How much tape are u suppose to use??? 380 mm for real??? It seems a lot less in the video. Also where do I use the glue. It said it works wonder.
You could use as much or as little tape as you want. It’s all up to your preference and taste. As long as you don’t put too much tape that all the microswitches are always being activated.
I also wondered about the glue, I’d assume you’d put it on top of the tape.
In the end I took off the tape after a week or two. Because I wanted more room for the joystick to move around and every once in a while the joystick would get stuck in one direction because of the tape.
You use the glue to make sure the tape doesn’t unroll.
First check if you like the new dead zone. If it’s too sensitive remove some layers off the tape and then glue the tape together.
I found that if you use 2 layers of electrical tape on the wide part of the actuator, the stick already becomes stuck. This also depends on how much of the paper you put in the microswitches.
wouldnt it be a lot more convenient to reduce the hole size rather than adding tape to the end of the stick?
What if you’re using an octogon gate, would you simply use less tape, or do you have to put the square gate back on? I haven’t actually played with a square gate yet and am worndering if these “dead zones” are more of a limitation of the spring and gate than anything else.
I was kind of wondering the same thing. The tape mod is only if you are using an octo-gate right?
I will try this mod today or tomorrow, now that I have my octo gate and Seimitsu spring. Can someone explain what exactly each section of the mod does?
For example, does the post-it note thing reduce the dead zone? What is the tape for? To limit the amount of space the stick can move? I’d like to know what it is I’m doing to the stick before I actually do it, is all.
Thanks.
The paper in the microswitches establishes that you don’t have to hit the stick all the way against the restrictor/gate for the clicks to register. This makes for very relaxed circular movements, because you don’t have to put extra pressure on the stick to jam it all the way against the corners.
You could say it adds a negative dead zone.
The tape reduces the dead zone.
The guys asking about the tape length per gate should watch the video again and read the instructions more thoroughly: http://akihabarashop.jp/misc/AkihabaraSanwaJLFMODUltimate.mp4
I did it with less tape but everything else and I love it. It is a little stiffer than the sf4 machines though.
Thanks brainz. I did the mod yesterday and it’s great. I might add more tape though (I didn’t add the full 380mm).
Here are some things I’ve gathered:
-If someone is opening up the HRAP3, you unscrew the bottom screws, then remove the rear face plate (with a flat screw driver or something). Then you can remove the nuts.
-With the post-it notes, the width seems to be the cause for unresponsive sticks (ie, you push the stick and here the click, then let go, but the stick doesn’t go back to neutral). I don’t think I made my post-it notes (I actually used a very thin plastic) thick enough, because at first the clicks weren’t responding right and I thought I made them too thick.
Hmm, I was going to try this out to shorten the throw (just a little, even using an octo gate I don’t really find it that big of a deal) but had assumed that after a while of use the tape would start to form creases from rubbing against the gate and eventually make the stick worse off than when you first modded it. Seems like the dry erase pen (or any pen tubing that would fit tightly) seems like a much better solution for throw. The hard part is just finding the exact size you need, which you really don’t have to worry about when using the tape method.
Maybe my JLF isn’t broken in enough yet to notice this, but I get “clicks” by barely moving the stick from neutral to any direction. In fact, I get it within maybe 1/4th of the distance I actually have to move the stick to hit the gate, so I don’t quite understand why you really need it better than that unless this just helps with normal wear down (that I guess I don’t have yet). I notice too that when trying to do charge motion supers in HD Remix after charging back (against the gate), once the stick goes to neutral, the next three inputs require almost no effort or movement at all and are much easier to pull off than if I consciously try to hit each end of the gate.
Are other people having trouble getting the “throw” distance in each direction to be the same? After doing the mod, I’ve found I’ve had trouble getting both the “throw” distance and dead zone to be identical across all directions.
The post-it note part of the mod, in particular, seems to add to non-symmetry. It’s hard to get the post-it notes to be identical in thickness. I tried removing the post-it notes entirely and just adding more tape to the thick part of the shaft and that seemed to help for symmetry. I don’t think I could minimize the dead zone as much as with the post-it notes, but I found it easier to add tape to the thin part of the shaft to shorten the throw. Now, the dead zone and throw distance are nearly identical.
I’m pretty pleased with it, though I’d welcome any other suggestions on how to maintain the equi-distance.
Just get a ruler and fold each stack of post-its consistently? Worked fine for me.
1 The electric tape reduces the dead zone and decrease the throw.
2 The paper increase the engage also reduce dead zone.
3 The spring reduces the deflection and increase stiffness.
Everyone using the Oct gate increase the throw as well as the dead zone first of all, because are more space in the Oct gate then the Square gate.
All the definition is by Slagcoin
8 way gate
It can be difficult to balance the size of each direction’s throw edge with the size of each direction’s engage zone when eight directions are created using only four switches. With a circular or octagonal gate, you can easily divide the throws equally, but the engage zones for diagonals are going to suffer. With a square gate, you can easily divide the engage zones equally, but the throws are going to be twice as long on the diagonals.
Deadzone
The deadzone is the space between the switches where no directions get engaged (including neutral).
Engage
An engage happens when one or more switches are pressed. Engage distance refers to the distance/angle between neutral and the engagement of a given switch or set of switches. A shorter engage distance means a smaller deadzone and a larger engage distance means a larger deadzone. The engage distances are determined pretty much by how the joystick is manufactured with the placement of the switches and sizing of the actuator(s).
Throw
The throw is the place where the joystick gets stopped in a particular direction. Throw distance is the maximum distance/angle the shaft can be moved in a particular direction. The edge surrounding the movable area of the joystick (all the throws) is composed by the restrictor. Restrictor gates specifically shorten and redistribute the throw distances.