Didn’t think about the red-green colorblindness. I’ll keep that in mind in the future.
I have the gg pad but its out on loan for bigger and better purposes. When I get it back I’ll be posting the padhack info for it
Are there any other auto switching pcb’s on the market? I really don’t wanna install a switch.
Edit: Also can u explain why the imp only works with the MC Cthulu? I thought it didn’t matter since it’s just handling data signals.
Second Edit: Ok. I see that autodetection isn’t possible, but I can use a button for a switch. I just wanted to avoid installing a dpdt.
Yep. Auto-detection isn’t possible on non-MC-Cthulhu combos with the Imp V2, but you can still use a simple button to switch inputs.
Good luck on the tri-mod!
I have the same setup in my stick. I have the Crossbone inverted to go to the PS360+ and it will go to the XB1 pad by holding home. Introducing the Imp v2 into the chain allows me (and you) to use something like the select button (or any really) to switch to the PS4 padhack on connection while retaining the same functionality I currently have.
So let me get this straight. Is tapping to all the buttons on the FC4 just a matter of finding a ground and the signal? No resistors needed for the triggers? I just basically have to use a DPDT switch to get the PS4/PS3 switch working?
And about the trigger switch, can I wire up L3/R3 buttons to trigger both the trigger button and the NC on the trigger switch so that I have access to all of the trigger buttons at any time?
@The_Third
- Yes
- No, that’s not how it works. Leave the trigger switch unconnected (ie, signal is held high), and you have access to all triggers (L1/L2, L3/R3) at the trigger solder points.
Oh wow, I didn’t realize the trigger switch didn’t affect the R1/R2 button functions. That makes wiring a little bit easier then.
I’m surprised that nobody is getting rid of the GG gamepad by selling it on ebay.
@Gummo
Any way to make that dpad more durable or replace it with a sega saturn dpad?
its a collectors item that breaks easily (the d-pad comes off to easily).
Replacing the GG p-ad with a SS D-pad?
Have your 2 part epoxy, bondo and some cutting tools for the plastic
for the electrical side, pref board and tac switches
Or fit the GG Pad PCB inside a Sega Saturn shell?
I highly doubt that process is as straight forwards as you think.
hey bud, looking at this it seems impossible for the L buttons to be wired up to function on both consoles… is that correct?
Why would you say that? The console-selection switch is completely independent of the trigger-selection switch. Just leave the trigger-selection switch alone, and you should have access to L1/2/3 and R1/2/3 for both consoles.
i get that but thats for the pad, if you look at is pin out when 1 is high ps4 all buttons function as normal, but when 1 is low ps3, the L’s become Rs
No, that’s not what I’m saying.
There’s TWO separate switches with a “1” position. One of them controls PS3/PS4 functionality. The OTHER controls R1/R2/L1/L2 or L1/L2/L3/R3 functionality.
One switch is labeled from the front. The other is labeled on the back.
EDIT::
never mind my ignorance i realized where i was reading it wrong.
I was able to successfully padhack the FC4! It’s pretty easy apart from me botching the trace to the solder pot for the console switch because I had a hard time removing the soldered switch. Fortunately I was able to solder on the little copper dot exposed in the trace. I put it in a Qanba Q3 blank case.
Any reason why you removed the switch? If left set on the ps4 side the system selection signal is left unconnected. Leaving you able to wire it up to an external switch that just needs to connect it to ground to go into ps3 mode.
I didn’t know any better, and I wanted to get fancy with a lower profile mount. But after that first one, I didn’t bother doing it for the direction and trigger switch.
pic of how you did this? if you have. i never had to wire up a switch before so I’m not entirely sure