yo Shin Ace, got one more quick question bout the LED diagram. ok, so if I’m wiring this up for a playstation pcb and I’m grabbing the power off of the vcc right, that’s only supplying roughly 3.7v, you think this will be enough to power the hex inverter 7404 properly, or will the lack of voltage not allow the chip to work properly?
A 7404 will only start fucking up below 3 volts. I guarantee to 95% that it will work if you have anything between 3.3 and 5.5.
Basically, yeah, I’ve tried it on PS and it works. DC and USB pads can also function at 3.3 volt.
hey shinace, I have a quick question, if you don’t mind.
I just wired a stick up with a performace ps1 dualshock (since I had one lying around), and the buttons and stick seem to have a lag to them. I’m tapping jab real fast and its coming out really slow, like i would tap jab twice and it would only give me 1 jab. I was wondering what could be the cause of this. Would the pad have something in it that would cause delayed signals? I’m going to end up taking the pad out, but I was just curious as to what you think it might be.
thanks.
Even if the pad truly did lag, and you double tapped a button, you’d get the same result. It would just happen with a delay, but would still happen.
The same thing happens on USB. The windows joystick control panel has little test lights to check buttons but the lights react slowly. Tap it a single time quickly enough and it won’t register. But in mame, wolverine will stick out every jab you tap. In this case it’s just the refresh rate that’s much slower than the button tapping. Despite that, it’s up to the USB driver to decide how often to sample.
So, here’s a question for you. Are you doing this in-game? Or perhaps in some kind of training menu.
I’m doing it in game.
If you’re looking to mate 2 pads on one stick, you need to find the REAL ground. There is always one common ground, but resistors may make it look otherwise.
Consult http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67415 for more info.
edit: fixed the link.
This thread is not dying yet. I’m having trouble understanding this spdt thingy. My question is if both pads or multiple pads need all to be powered at once with different voltages how does having a switch in there power all pads at once. Lets say a Dc and a psx pad. I understand how it’s wired up but what postition should the switch be in. The center or to the right or the left of the center position. Well I’m assuming that it has a position for each prong on the switch or is it simply an on/off type switch? And if it is a 3 position switch what do each of the positions do??? Wouldnt having 5v on a 3.3v pad be too much power for it and not being enough power vice versa? Ok and are there any other system pads that use a diff than the 2 mentioned above… 5v 3.3v.
hey guys how do u wireing a stick to make for both ps and dc ???
bump bump bump
The basic idea behind the hack is this: All pads must share power, and they only draw power from one source. To make the pads share power is easy, you just connect the ground and power wires together for all pads. But then they draw power from ALL sources. The switch is not necessary, it’s simply a safety. The way I have it wired, the pads can only draw power from one system. And the system they take power from is chosen by you, you simply change the position of the switch.
Without the switch, you can accidentally plug in 2 pads at once and have both consoles powered on. Imagine it’s PSX and DC. PSX is giving 3.3 volts on the power wire, and DC is giving you 5. They will fight each other until one of them blows a controller port. Playstation’s are the only systems to use 3.3 volt.
USB, DC, XBOX are all 5 volt. Feeding 5 volts to a psx pad will not harm it.
Just to remind you, if all systems are 5 volt(anything but psx), replace the switch with diodes. You just cut the power wire on each pad and put a diode in series. That way, everything is automatic and safe.
Then there’s always the battery option. For my next stick, I’m using a 12 volt 5 amphour battery, the kind you find in house alarm panels. 12 volts? Hell yeah. I put 2 regulators on it, a 3.3 volt regulator and a 5 volt one. That way I can properly power any pad, without even needing a console in sight.
At first thought, it seems excessive, but I’m modifying my buttons to be optical, hence why I’m providing my own power source.
I think I have this right, but I wanted to verify with someone before I risk cracking open the project box with the agetec pcb in it.
Simply, I have a line in my project box setup for ‘select’ and ‘back’ buttons, which dont have a Dreamcast equivalent. So, I want to use this wire for a taunt button (LK + Start in MvC2 and CvS2). When making it, I couldnt figure out how to do this without having start and the LK button trigger both. LK should only hit LK, Start should only hit Start, and the taunt button should hit both simultaneously. A couple of days ago I figured it out using a pair of diodes, and just want another opinion on if this will work, or if there is something silly or damaging I’m not thinking of. I did test this out on a Radio Shack electronics kit/breadboard doohickey, and it worked fine, but there may be something Im not aware of that would cause problems. Yes, this is Day 1 work on any EE’s curiculum and I’m just a noob. Any feedback appreciated.
http://www.marcuspost.com/images/tauntbutton.gif
Yep, looks good. In theory, the diode will absorb half a volt, throwing your signal off by that much. But, the DC pad will still recognize it just fine.
Another way to do it is to use logic gates, but then you need to track down some 5 volt power, and the wiring is longer. Not worth it if you just want to make a taunt button. Diodes will do the trick.
Appreciated. Just to let you know, Im gonna jack your ‘magnet and reed switch’ idea on my stick, so it cuts the ground to four buttons and keeps me from DQ’ing myself if I mash start on accident. I’ll have a magnet for ‘tournament mode’.
The only thing you need to do for tournament is disable your start button. Sure, you can’t taunt anymore, but that fixes a lot of problems. On one of my old sticks, there’s a single on/off switch at the back. Everyone thinks it’s on/off for the stick, until I tell them it enables/disables the start button. Some friends like to play with it on(those who don’t accidentally mash start), and others use the switch(fierce mashers).
If you decide to use magnetic contacts, be aware of the 2 types. One is for alarm systems, already packaged with wire leads. The other type is an actual reed switch. Reed switches can handle current, no problem. Alarm contacts however, are not designed for it. So if you have to use an alarm contact as a switch, you might need to use a relay. Or worse, a transistor as an amplifier.