Watch the “How To Hitbox” youtube series.
It’ll help.
I’m very interested in a similar setup, but with a different layout/buttons than Hitbox. I fully understand why jump is where it is, 24mm button for all, etc – I simply want more spacing between my hands and probably a more traditional WASD-like layout for movement.
Thanks for that. It’s been years since I’ve touched electronics and haven’t done anything remotely cool in even longer so do you have any suggested further reading or detailed guide explaining that diagram? I had a look at http://www.rapidtables.com/electric/electrical_symbols.htm and it seems to make sense, but I don’t like doing anything unless I really understand it.
Also, I love your domain name, wish that was mine 
I’m really interested in building my own hitbox, but I have a quick question. According to their website, the first hitboxes would let you press left and right simultaneously, which allowed people to block both left and right in MvC3 (i.e. if you held both you would continue blocking even if crossed up). To remain tournament legal, they are now modded so that if you press left and right at the same time you get neutral. Obviously if I make a hitbox I want it to be tournament legal. Does anyone have any thoughts on how they accomplish that? Or maybe it’s not a problem with a regular Cthulu card?
Is this what I’m referring to? not sure what SOCD means
[/COLOR]
SOCD means simultaneous opposite cardinal directions so yes. The diagram linked looks like it fixes this. I’m not an expert which is why I asked for more detail.
SOCD means “Simultaneous Opposing Cardinal Directions”. Like you said, up+down or left+right at the same time.
And SOCD has been ruled tournament legal by Evo. It’s lame that Capcom won’t just put out a quick patch to fix it, but them’s the breaks…
Really!? Damn. I’d like to see the discussion that lead to that ruling.
Laziness. They don’t want to have to check every controller that comes in to the tournament.
Whaaa… ? wild.
Well let me rephrase then… maybe I’m not concerned about being tournament legal so much as playing fair
Just do like I do and don’t participate. I just don’t press <- + -> at the same time when blocking.
I would be a little worried about doing it without meaning to, like perhaps I mean to go from blocking left to blocking right but momentarily press both buttons. Even if it’s just for a couple frames, it could still be the difference between a crossup hitting or being blocked. imho
After watching all the hitbox videos and spending sometime on the temporary setup I’m starting to get familiar. I’m starting to use the jump button without thinking about it now, at first I didn’t even remember it was there…
I’m madcatz TE round 2 hardware and it does not allow SOCD… If you hold <—> it gives you neutral.
OK. The way that common ground controllers typically work is that while the button is up (not pressed) there is no connection and the signal line is ‘pulled up’ to some positive voltage. (There’s a big resistor connecting it to Vcc.) When the button is pushed, the line gets connected to ground, and goes to 0V. (Some current does flow, but the big resistor limits it.) So, while the buttons are open, the lines running to the RHS of the drawing are high.
In this setting, the transistor is just acting as a switch. If the potential at the base (the bar of the inverted T) is higher than the potential at at the emitter (the tip of the arrow) then current will flow from the base to the emitter, and can also flow from the collector (the other leg) to the emitter, and a small amount of base to emitter current will allow a large amount of collector to emitter current to flow.
Now, let’s take a look at what happens (with some apologies for notation.)
If both switches are open - there’s no connection to ground, and both signal lines stay high.
If just the ‘up’ switch is closed, then the up line gets pulled to ground. The transistor acts like a diode, and prevents current from flowing from the ‘down’ line up and through the ‘up’ switch, so the ‘down’ line stays high and the up line goes low.
If just the ‘down’ switch is closed, the LHS of the transistor gets pulled down. That means that current will flow from the base to the emitter. The resistor is sized so that it’s not enough to pull down the ‘up’ line, but the transistor gain does allow enough current to flow from the collector to the emitter to pull the down line down. So the ‘up’ line stays high, and the down line goes low.
If both switches are closed, then both the base and the emitter of the transistor are at 0V, so there’s no current flow there, and the down line will stay high while the up line gets pulled down.
id love to have the base and basic layout of an arcade stick.
but instead of the buttons and stick you would using buttons off a keyboard
would be so weird :B
you could use something like these http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.php?item_number=877&products_id=877&language=en
I was using this in BlazBlue yesterday to get some of those other inputs (hcb-f) downand I’m getting better at it.
I can’t use it in matches yet since my brain still short-circuits on the fly, but I’m noticing significant improvement - and it’s not like I’m putting in a huge amount of time.
Anyone got a hitbox style template? Im going to try this out on a cardboard box or something
I notice that the improvement from only using it a couple hours a day for three days are much greater than when I picked up the stick a few months ago… Hopefully I my panel/plexi/art will arrive sometime next week so I can post some pictures… Don’t want to post my wooden panel :p.
Hitbox is not supplying anyone with their template (not even for art) from what I have seen. You can just pull up a picture and come up with your own… Do the eight button layout by following the curve that your fingers make when you put your tips down on the panel and you should be able to line up the rest of the buttons by looking at a picture and spacing between them.
what type of NPN and resistors should be used. I have used NPN 2n3904 for the trigger hack on a madcatz pad. but what kind of resistors do i need?
are these correct? http://www.maplin.co.uk/metal-film-2w-resistor-5729
I really don’t know. The transistor and resistor have to be matched to the controller…I have a bucket of parts, and matched them experimentally.