The electrical tape on the actuator will decrease the distance required to trigger the microswitches. If you keep layering the tape on, you can control how far the actuator has to move in order to trigger a direction. The spring is just necessary for added tension and it will cause the stick to return faster to center.
Even though you said you don’t want to get another stick, I am still going to recommend a Seimitsu LS-56. If you think the JLF is too loose or slow, the LS-56 might be perfect for you.
I have a jlf stick made by Finkle that scrapes the bottom removeable metal layer only recently. i disassembled the stick and tightened the mounting screws at the top. it seems like if i have it laying flat it doesnt scrape. when i play i have it on my lap at a very slight angle and applying pressure to the bottom from my thighs.
is there a way to raise it the shaft/ stick portion to prevent the scraping?
heres some pictures to exemplify the problem. i tried flipping the metal around and it scraped on both sides.
An LS-32 is NOTHING like a stock AES joystick in terms of feel or design.
There is only one type of LS-32 which is available in two forms - without a PCB or with a PCB. They function exactly the same. The mounting plate can also differ (SS plate usually comes with the LS-32-01 models, RE plate usually comes with the LS-32).
You’d have better luck finding one of those older arcade sticks listed in your link and transplanting the joystick into whatever you want. To do this you will need a good level of modding experience.
I’m looking to recess out my MDF ready for buttons but I can’t seem to find a consistent answer to what the maximum thickness the sanwa screw in buttons support. Some say 10mm others say 8mm for both the 30mm and 24mm buttons, but what is the actual figure?
@pablofsi The term “japs” is offensive. But to shorten the throw you can get a larger actuator and stiffer spring for the JLF. Also I think the phreakmods JLF “The Link” is a shorter shaft then the standard JLF shaft which would help also…
I have a sanwa JLF-TP-8YT for me the dead zone is too big. What is it better to put and oversize 1mm kowal or Change the Spring for 2LB for sanwa or any Spring or Seimitsu.
