CDB2
11561
That’s what I did.
I disconnected everything not vital, and then started to reconnect the PSU connectors, a few at a time after every successful boot, to see which was causing the problem.
Manx
11562
Instructions resolved the incident. Problem ticket closed. 
:tup:
AMD announce that Ryzen CPU will launch in early March
@CDB2
You can use a HDTV as a monitor while waiting on your actual monitor.
CDB2
11565
Thank you, @PresidentCamacho
Also what optical drives and gaming keyboards & mouse do you guys use or recommend?
And oh I remember you all saying you can get Windows 10 for $20 or less? Is it that still possible?
Manx
11566
Optical Drives: There’s honestly no need for one, but if you really want to use optical storage and/or will watch movies, then a Blu-Ray RW drive. Just get the cheapest and it should last you. Probably LG or Asus.
Keyboard & Mice: Stay away from “gaming” products. You want a mechanical keyboard. You won’t be going back once you’ve gotten one. Mice? Logitech or Microsoft. I’ve had spotty success with Logitech mice, but I’ve never bought their high end, so maybe that matters. Microsoft products will keep working. Forever.
As for the mechanical keyboards, Cherry switches are the absolute gold standard. However, their patent has expired, allowing other manufacturers to reverse-engineer them (the absolute gold standard of capitalist personal computing) and allowing them to be made much, much cheaper. If you want the very best money can buy, then avoid Razor anything, and pick up a Ducky, Corsair, or Steel Series.
Yes, these are expensive, coming in at over $100 in some cases, but trust me, there is a gigantic difference between them and the shitty $15 membrane keyboards that most people use. For budget keyboards, starting at $35, check Amazon. There is literally a FLOOD of decent, nicely-priced mechanicals on the market that perform quite well. Sure, they aren’t Cherry switches, but they get the job done quite well for the average gamer/typist and beyond without breaking the bank.
Just be sure you get a true mechanical and not a mechanical-like/mechanical-feel etc. Those are basically just the old membrane shitters with better springs in them. :bluu:
Do your homework and try to go to a store near you if you can to see what the blue/brown/red switches feel like. Just don’t buy from that sotre because they will ass rape you on prices.
:tup:
CDB2
11567
I’m looking at probably getting this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=austevan-20&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1472916642&sr=1-1&keywords=redragon+kumara&linkCode=ll1&linkId=281bb0450a887a5010a5c38e21030b3f
The reviews are good and the price is reasonable.
Manx
11568
Red Dragon is great, from what I hear. In fact, I’m probably going to get some for me and my friends.
:tup:
CDB2
11569
@Manx Alright done deal!!! Sending my order to Amazon!
Going to pick up the bundle pack that includes the mouse.
Manx
11570
Not sure on the mouse, but sure thing. Check it out. I personally like Thermaltake’s Tt eSports series for bang/$$. I have their mouse and their keyboard has served me well, even if I do have a couple of keyswitches to replace after 2+ years of me constantly using it and cleaning it in the dishwasher.
:tup:
https://www.kinguin.net sells serial keys for about $26. You still need to down load the OS, burn it to a DVD or Put it on a Flash Drive.
You can download Win 10 from Microsoft’s website.
Search for Windows, avoid 7, 8 or 8.1 and get Win 10 if you care about gaming, wanting to use Intel Krabylake, AMD Ryzen or any other “New” hardware.
Make sure you are getting the “World Wide” Edition
Optical Drives are pretty much being phased out of computing.
Very few Desktops and no Laptops come pre-installed with a optical drive anymore.
For a mouse, if you want to go cheap, $7
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-Button-Wired-Mouse-Black/dp/B005EJH6RW
Otherwise follow Manx advice for Keyboards and go to a store and see what mouse feels comfortable in your hand.
Then buy that shit online. Only time I pick up parts at the store if they are the same price as online and I want that item today.
Only brick and mortar Computer stores worth a shit is Fry’s, Microcenter, Newegg and that’s it.
I personally have a Corsiar K70 RGB Keyboard and a older non-RGB Corsair M65 mouse.
I actually don’t like Triton as they are a part of Mad Catz. And I now hold Mad Catz in the same boat as Razer.
I had one too many Triton headsets break on me way to easily.
Manx
11572
I didn’t mean Triton. I meant Thermaltake’s Tt eSports series. They call their keyboard the Posedion and that’s confusing.
Stupid Greek mythology! :mad:
:tup:
Guy in this video goes a bit backwards and builds a Retro Sleeper.
A 486 processor in a Modern case with some modern parts.
I agree with some of the choices he made such as using a flash card for the IDE harddrive and the Floppy emulator
The ATX to AT adapter is absolutely necessary as its the only way to use a modern ATX Power Supply with a older AT motherboard. I no longer consider using aging AT power supply viable. Startech still makes new AT power supplies. If anyone here ever does build a 486 system witha ATX PSU use the better ATX to AT adapter with the dummy load and the -5v power lines.
Using a DVD drive instead of a working CD drive with the proper Audio-out is a dumb fuck move as there plenty of working IDE CD drives still out there.
Also the guy could afford a external Mini processor but not drop the few bucks for a blank I/O shield.
For me, I rather not set manual IRQ and addresses for expansion and I/O cards.
And here is a 486 build using only original era parts
CDB2
11575
@Manx and anyone else…
About the SSD should that be my main
Is the OS still free?
UPDATE: NEVERMIND, I got it!!
Interesting thing about optical drives.
About nine years ago I was heavy into burning CDs and DVDs and all that mess.
Nowadays, I’ve barely even used the damn thing in my desktop. ONLY REASON I still have one is because I wanted to watch Blu-ray stuff, and wound up getting rid of the DVD-RW for a Blu-Ray re-writeable drive.
Been a long time since I installed any program from any type of disc.
And yeah, I have been watching random movies I picked up from Amazon. Mostly old anime or other obscure shit other places wouldn’t have streaming.
No, Windows never was actually free. Even with those users who got the “Free” upgrade from Win 7, 8 and 8.1 to Win 10 will tell you MS don’t give anything for free.
Microsoft is all about paid digital downloads, subscription services and micro-transactions. Cortana, Bing, the new Metro TV, Music and the “Get office” apps are all about ether trying to sell you shit or making you look at ads. Microsoft’s Internet Explorer made more money for MS being give away for “free” than Xbox ever had for 3 console generations, and that only looking at the years Xbox been around.
Gone are the “good” games (Solitaire, Minesweeper, Free Cell, ect) that came standard in Windows, and preinstalled are the terrible Freemium Facebook games full of Microtransactions such as Candy Crush.
The Solitaire collection is “free” from the MS Store, but you got to pay a subscription of you want the game to be Ad Free.
You can for free download the OS, but you still need a legitimate serial key.
The upside is once you buy a serial key, you have the Key for Life. Register the key with a Microsoft account (the one you use for Xbox Live is fine) and you now have nearly unlimited reinstalls.
The one smart thing Microsoft done is they got rid of the OEM designation for serial keys. Regardless where you get your OS now, Retail and OEM are treated as the same thing.
You go to Best Buy or Staples to buy Windows 10, you will no longer get a DISC any more. Some version of Win 10 come on USB flash drive but more often than not, all you get is a small card with a Serial Key on it and instructions to download the OS your self. You don’t even download a ISO file, you download a program called Media maker which downloads the latest version and ether writes the installed to a Flash drive or make a ISO for you.
Wonder if I have to jump through any hoops when I get to making new rig (Due to my special case of having Windows 10 Enterprise).
I know Enterprise goes about things differently than Retail and OEM versions.
But as long as you got your serial key or the account the serial key is registered to, you should be fine.
