When I simply connect pins 1 and 2 with the pot still attached it does activate, but it is creating a short from the pot’s power to ground and appears to be dragging down the voltage on that circuit. Since all the pots on the board are connected to the same power circuit, they all activate at the same time.
That is what I have so far, and my testing is at a stand still because my Xbox just red-ringed last night.:mad::mad::mad:
Ok, so i just ordered a few items to build my stick. And i want to build it so that itll work on my ps2 and ps3. The stick i purchased was a Seimitsu LS-32 Joystick anda i wanted to knw which playstation PCB do you guys recomend that i use. The DS1 or the standard non dual shock ps1 grey controller? cuz ive been reading about the voltage n a few other things dat got me slightly confused.
kk thanks man. Cant wait to recieve the parts to my stick lol im gonna start workin on the box this weekend, any good tutorials for makin a box? i alrdy desighned the image i want on it.
thanks man for the link, pretty interesting that website indeed, n ill PM u if anything else comes up =) im jus lookin for controllers right now lol. was gonna buy 2 non-DS1 controllers but i think ima b a bit patient cuz im sure i knw ppl dat have those controllers hehe.
Sorry, I misspoke about leaving the pots on. My bad. Remove the pots, put a resistor between +5v and the wiper line, and connect the wiper line to your button, with ground on the other prong.
When the button’s not pressed, voltage from the resistor will make the trigger show as not pulled. When the buttons pressed, the 0 voltage from the button will make the trigger think it is pressed, and the only connection between +5v and GND is the resistor you put in, so no short.
If you are going to wire the triggers to buttons, do NOT directly connect +5v and the wiper line! You must use a resistor, preferably 4k-10k ohm
The analog triggers on the MadCatz 360 pad, and a lot of other game pads, are connected to a part called a potentiometer.
There are three pads on the pot; a high pad, a low pad, and the ‘wiper’ pad in the middle. The high pad is connected to a high voltage, probably the the +5v. Low pad is connected to a low voltage, probably 0v ground. As the pot turns, the middle wiper pin connects to some point in between the two; for the triggers on a MadCatz pad, the wiper pin is really close to the high pin, and so there is a high voltage of almost +5v on that line. When the trigger is pulled, the wiper pin moves until its almost at
the low pin, and so has a low voltage of just over 0v. That’s how racing games use the triggers to control throttle; if the trigger is only pulled halfway, then the voltage on the wiper pin is somewhere in the middle at around 2.5v. The pot forces the voltage on the wiper pin to somewhere between high and low, and the chip on the controller reads that voltage to see how far the trigger is pulled.
Then you are doing something wrong.
Lots of people here happy to help where we can, but we can’t do anything without information. Symptoms, pictures, lengthy drescriptions of exactly what has been done and how it is behaving. If the only information you can give us is ‘it don’t work’, then the only help we can offer is ‘you’re doing it wrong’.
On the same madcatz controller if I choose not to use the triggers do I have to use resistors and the such? or can I just take them apart then ignore them?
Is there any way to tell a new common-ground 360 wireless pad by looking at the packaging? I know Halo/Pink/Blue are giveaways, but is there anything on the actual package you can use to find out without opening it?
If you choose not to use the triggers, the easiest thing to do is to leave the potentiometers on. You can remove the trigger mechanism and leave the pot on the board fairly easily. Plug it into a PC, use a small flat blade screwdriver to turn the pot and look at the pad in the Game Controller applet. You’ll find that turning it one way shows the trigger as pulled, and turning it the other way shows it as releasing the trigger. Turn it all of the way to fully released, and put some hot glue on it so it never turns again. You’ll probably want to plug it into the PC to play with before disassembling it, so you can see how the triggers look in the control panel.
If you remove the pot, you HAVE to use a resistor otherwise you may get random trigger presses. But if you leave the pot on and stick it in place, the pot will do that for you.
hi, this thread is humoungous. My question is if its possible to mod a Sega Saturn pad and make it play playstation games. I own an official sega saturn style playstation pad, but its worn out now. They are just about impossible to find on the internet and buy. But, regular sega saturn pads are easy and affordable. If there was a post in this topic about modding a real sega saturn style pad to make it play playstation games, can someone copy and paste it? If not, can someone give me basics if its possible or how to do it? thanks
hmmmm other ppl may have better sugestions but this would be what i would do if i was going to mod a pad. It would be like a project box/external connector setup
grab a db 25 connector and glue that to the back on the controller(making sure the contacts arn’t touching any part of the pcb). Get the thinnest and most flexible wire you can find and solder the direction and button contacts of the back side of the board to the db-25. connect the controller back together and make those project boxes. I do not know if analogs will work doing it like this. Make sure that there is both a vcc line and a ground line connected to the db-25 connector and make sure that those lines are connected to the other pcb when making the project box.
Oh and i think there might be a saturn -> psx converter out there. Check the converter thread
So I finally got all my stuff ready to start a stick and am having major problems taking the screws out. How do you guys do it? I use small screw drivers which pretty much kill my hands because they take so much force and even then I think stripped afew screws before breaking the pcb trying to ripe it open lolz. So are there screw drivers with bigger handles for the tiny screw six or what?
Sorry to double post but its been 4 days since my last question and still wondering if anyone could answer it.
Also after searching and searching, I was also wondering I got some of the A series DS controllers and know someone I think it was TMO posted some pictures of the different text showing whether or not it could be done solderlessly. I’ve searched but for some reason shoryuken returns only returns white screens to me.
