*The "padhacking" thread*

[animefanzmg]

i can pull on all of them (with up as an exception) and they dont come off. is that good enough?

[animefanzmg]

i tried wiring the pcb to the pins in reverse so the ground was pin one instead of up. and so on

here are the new symptoms

now rounhouse while holding up does B

upright is registers as up, upleft registers as down, up registers as neutral (roundhouse works as b it doesnt when im not doing anything), Jab while holding up is right, strong while holding up is left. and jab and strong while holding up is down left. combinations of jab or strong and upleft or right work allowing all 8 directions to be done in a strange sort of way.

im using an ls 32 joystick and ps-14 seimitus buttons

i tryd just wiring a button to start and the common ground and it worked as it should

does it matter which contact on the ls32 i use to be the ground and which one to not be the ground?

[System_1]

could anybody tell me where the vcc is for this controller?

[System_1]

Of the 7 solder points at the top, the left most is obviously GND.

The right most appears to be VCC. If the solder point right below it is a small disk or can capacitor, I’d bet money that it is VCC. If it’s a jumper, all bets are off.

[System_1]

i tried wiring the pcb to the pins in reverse so the ground was pin one instead of up. and so on

here are the new symptoms

now rounhouse while holding up does B

upright is registers as up, upleft registers as down, up registers as neutral (roundhouse works as b it doesnt when im not doing anything), Jab while holding up is right, strong while holding up is left. and jab and strong while holding up is down left. combinations of jab or strong and upleft or right work allowing all 8 directions to be done in a strange sort of way.

im using an ls 32 joystick and ps-14 seimitus buttons

i tryd just wiring a button to start and the common ground and it worked as it should

does it matter which contact on the ls32 i use to be the ground and which one to not be the ground?

I would investigate your own wiring and also that parallel cable.

Is it an actual printer cable or an extension cable? Try to go the extension route to be safe.

p.s. Did you do the woodwork? Looks very nice and sounds like you’re excited to be doing this.

[System_1]

could some one help me find the grounds and hot spots on this pad?

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb235/LoyalistRevolt/100_0204.jpg

[Green]

Take a picture of the back, please.

[animefanzmg]

I would investigate your own wiring and also that parallel cable.

Is it an actual printer cable or an extension cable? Try to go the extension route to be safe.

p.s. Did you do the woodwork? Looks very nice and sounds like you’re excited to be doing this.

the problem was the cable it doesnt keep the number standered for the pins like pin 5 comes out pin 10. 4 comes out 12 etc.

yeah me and my dad did the woodwork. Pictures of the front are here

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=115479&page=156

yeah its fun, but its a good thing i didnt have anything important to do today

[Toodles]

could some one help me find the grounds and hot spots on this pad?

To quote my own self from this very thread:
I could point them out with MSPaint, but that wouldn’t be any fun.
Look at the end of the DC cable, the plug that goes into the DC. Theres a flat, wide exposed metal on the outside top. Take one end of your probe and hold it against the metal. Now, set the multimeter to resistance. Touch the other probe to each half of each button. One half of each button will show no resistance; that other will show infinite resistance. The one with no resistance is the ground, the one with infinite resistance is the signal. If you none of the halves show no resistance, its not a common ground pad.

As for the +5, you should have JFGI: http://mc.pp.se/dc/controller.html

[System_1]

To quote my own self from this very thread:
I could point them out with MSPaint, but that wouldn’t be any fun.
Look at the end of the DC cable, the plug that goes into the DC. Theres a flat, wide exposed metal on the outside top. Take one end of your probe and hold it against the metal. Now, set the multimeter to resistance. Touch the other probe to each half of each button. One half of each button will show no resistance; that other will show infinite resistance. The one with no resistance is the ground, the one with infinite resistance is the signal. If you none of the halves show no resistance, its not a common ground pad.

As for the +5, you should have JFGI: http://mc.pp.se/dc/controller.html

But If none show resistance then how do I find the ground?

[Toodles]

But If none show resistance then how do I find the ground?

To answer your question directly:

If you none of the halves show no resistance, its not a common ground pad.

But, if you mean on the pad you linked the picture to, I’m 99.99% certain is IS a common ground.

Im thinking the exposed metal on the plug is connected to the wire’s shielding, and it doesn’t look connected to the PCB. That’s fine. Follow this link to find the color of the wire used for ground:

http://mc.pp.se/dc/controller.html

Find the point on the PCB where that color wire is soldered to the board, and use that point as your test point instead of the metal on the end of the plug.

[System_1]

To answer your question directly:

But, if you mean on the pad you linked the picture to, I’m 99.99% certain is IS a common ground.

Im thinking the exposed metal on the plug is connected to the wire’s shielding, and it doesn’t look connected to the PCB. That’s fine. Follow this link to find the color of the wire used for ground:

http://mc.pp.se/dc/controller.html

Find the point on the PCB where that color wire is soldered to the board, and use that point as your test point instead of the metal on the end of the plug.

does that mean I should solder to where the black wire connects to the pad for ground?

[System_1]

is there a +5volt for the official ps1 h series?

[final_cut]

is there a +5volt for the official ps1 h series?

Not sure about the voltage, but it should be what runs to the light for the analog button. Seems like that is what you would connect to a P360, if I remember correctly.

[Green]

I have a PSX pad here that has an H on the analog sub-PCB… so I guess it’s an H-series. Doesn’t really look like other H-series PCBs I’ve seen, but I guess that doesn’t matter. Will I be ok if I sever the ribbon cable going to the analog sub-PCB?

[Trouble_Brewing]

Typically it’s not ok to chop off the analog board, but all the pads I’ve hack use that as the main board.

So what are people hacking for X360 pads these days that have a universal ground? I’ve done a couple of the Mad Catz arcade sticks but I want a smaller PCB for my next project. The thread indicates that some of the Mad Catz pads are universal ground but some aren’t. Is there a sure fire way to tell?

Like is this universal ground?
http://www.gamestop.com/Catalog/ProductDetails.aspx?sku=802218

Any of these?
http://www.madcatz.com/Default.asp?Page=247

Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.

[System_1]

Loyalist, that looks like a MadCatz DC pad.

If you look at the button for light kick, there’s 2 small copper spots just to the left of it. The bottom one is ground and the top one is light kick.

wait what? what is the light kick and do you mean the one with the green single strip under and a little to the left of the hole with the X over it?

[Imitrex]

I have the same question as Starcade RIP on the X360s, since I can’t find the aforementioned common ground controllers anywhere near me, and trying to stay away from ordering online.

[Bomberman]

Imitrex, you can’t find a MadCatz GameStop controller in your area? It doesn’t have to be a MicroCon. The regular one is common ground too…

[Imitrex]

Ah, ok. Sorry, I was confused and thought it was limited to only the earlier versions posted within the thread.

Thank you sir!