Just speculation but you may have issues with your cable. I don’t know the pinout, but maybe the power lines in the cable are working correctly and the other lines are not working.
Never done this b4, but you might have to trace the wire colors of the ps2 cable to their appropriate pins (assuming you’re playing 3s on ps2) and check if they haven’t given out and re-solder them. Not really difficult.
Don’t know much about actual controller cables to help though.
http://localhostr.com/files/eb6258/pins.png
Is this correct?
green = ACK
blue = CLK
black = GND (ground)
Yellow = CS
Red = 3.3v
Orange = DO
Brown = DI
purple = 7.0v
I’ve got a new xbox 360 microcon controller that i would like to padhack. Could anyone tell me where i could find a diagram of the PCB? I’d appreciate it immensely! I looked for hours and i cant find any good info on it anywhere.
hi folks here i am again,
i m planning to buy 4 ps controllers:
> SONY
> ANALOG CONTROLLER
> SONY COMPUTER
> ENTERTAINMENT INC A and H
> SCPH-1200 made in korea and made in china
the pcbs should be like these:
they seem ok to me,without any big deal about soldering… so when i receive and want to hack them i just have to solder the wires to the Slagcoin’s spots,right?
i have to solder on the coppered signal spots or i have to erase the black material on the near signals spot (hope u understand what i m saying)?
My only experience with soldering was with a Dreamcast original sega pad and one of this http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram9.jpg …
You do not need to erase.
Can solder to copper points.
thats good to know…thx pal
I successfully wired my microcon mad catz xbox 360 controller (Ver. B) all but the RT and LT which i didnt really mess to much with. Anyone happen to know if this PCB requires the Ohm Resistors/Transistor method? I’ve done this method before but by using a easy guide of the exact pcb that showed me which was the high,low and wiper already. Does anyone happen to know what method this controller takes? I’m happy enough with 6 buttons but have become pretty accustomed to 8 buttons for SF 4, any help is appreciated.
This is what my PCB looked like http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7907/vshgmod.th.jpg
L3 + R3 on a PSX/PS2 pad simulates the PS home button for a ps3 pad correct?
I was wondering what the solder points were for this GameStop brand 360 controller
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/9238/dsc01910q.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1059/dsc01909o.jpg
Any help would be appreciated.
Ok, let me rephrase and ask some questions to get some information and not post a dumb question like that.
I know where the solder points are that correspond to the buttons, A B X and so on.
Three things I don’t know are;
1: Which are the grounds versus the signals? How do I find out which are which?
2: How do I determine if there are common grounds or individual grounds?
3: What the heck do I do with those bumper buttons, are there solder points underneath them? I can’t seem to easily pry them off at least and don’t want to mess anything up ripping things off. Are there alternative places to solder?
Again any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Hi guys, I’m in need of a little help here…
Okay so I followed slagcoins’ tuts down to the letter…using a Hosiden Digital-H PS1 controller…okay, soldered the connections on my old Hori Compact Joystick everything worked fine…until today…it suddenly continuously repeats inputting a directional command (up in this case) now it also happened on the original Hori PCB that I thought was the problem…so I continued to troubleshoot and even went to replace the micro-switches and still no luck… I plugged another old PS1 controller with the converter to my PS3 and it works fine…any help as to why this is happening is appreciated.
(i doubt its the converter as I’ve tried 2 old PS1 and PS2 controllers and they work fine)
attached are some images of my n00b soldering skills:
Hello.
Before all, excuse me by my poor english, but I need help…
I want to build an arcade stick with dual wireless pcb: xbox360 and PC/PS2/PS3 compatible pcb. XBOX360 pcb is an original microsoft pad (late version with common grounds). Another pcb is a not common ground pcb, it has a ground in digital buttons (select, start, mode) and another ground to analogic buttons, i.e. directions, square, circle…
I want to power pcbs with an unique batery and I want to use two DPDT switch: ono switch to power on/off and another switch to select XBOX360 pcb or PC/PS2/PS3 pcb.
I haven’t commond grounds in both pcb’s, then I thought that several diodes could solve my problem. A generic diagram with three buttons (complete stick has eight buttons plus service buttons) would be:
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/2482/pruebauh.png
Can this diagram have any problem? I want to power only a pcb, I want to each pcb works alone. If with this diagram it don’t work, how could I do?
Thank you very much.
Hey guys quick question? I have a madcatz gamestop branded xbox pad that I had hacked and it seems to be having issues. It will get stuck going in one direction like I’m holding down the button but If I unplug it and plug it back in it seems to be fine for a while them randomly does it again. Has anybody else had this problem? It’s a dual modded stick with an MC Cthulhu and IMP but everything else seems to be working fine just the 360 pad is acting up.
Any details on what you may have done to the analog sticks and/or triggers on the 360 pad?
I didn’t do the hack myself but I’ll contact the guy that did and see if we can work it out. Thanks for the quick response and for pointing me in (what sounds like) the right direction.
I’m planning on building a custom stick for the PS2. The problem is that I’ve neve done anything like this and I need some help and advice.
- What pcb/pad should I get? Does the ps1 DS H is the one to go?
- Where can I find this in UK/Europe.
- What kind of wires do I need. Does gremlin sell this kind of wires?
- Do I use quick disconnects on the buttons or do they also need to be soldered?
Thx
Does anyone have pictures of a hacked Nintendo Gamecube controller? Can I use the same ground for all the buttons?
I believe the problem is that the left analog stick likes to jump to one of the up diagonal positions while it’s physically at neutral. I’m thinking faulty potentiometers on the left analog?
At this point, we don’t even know if the analogs were removed or glued in spot or what, plus using the USB power (+5v) instead of the analog high (+3v on most) when inverting the triggers can cause the analogs to go wonky, or if the triggers weren’t inverted and the potentiometer was turned in a bad way, or the pot was left on and still inverted, or… There’s just way too much unknown to make a guess.
Hey guys, its been a while since I’ve been in this thread.
I was wondering if anyone has ever padhacked an Arsenal Gaming Gamecube controller?
I’m kind of too lazy to figure where to solder, but if no one has it I’ll do it and upload pics.
Controller is about 7 bucks on ebay, perfect for tvc.
thanks.
*edit: i did search the thread but nothing =\