*The "padhacking" thread*

The small circle and its little fingers are all the same contact. It doesn’t matter where you solder to on it. Just don’t short the fingers of one contact to the other contact.

so, if the fingers are bridged its no bueno?

I’ll try to be neat…

If you bridge the fingers, that button will be activated all the time.

but doesn’t the way the button function break the circuit, only completing it when the button is pushed? Or does having it completed take the button out of the equation?

You’re shorting the circuit before the button, by bridging the fingers.

thanks for the tips…

hopefully have the dual mod done tomorrow…

Happ, and the side pin, I thought that was where the ground was supposed to go.

hey, so is the madcatz ps3 wireless controllers pcb just as crappy as the wired controller?

Hello I just built my fight stick and I am having some issues with the joystick.

I have a JLF-TP-8T joystick and I am using this 360 controller:
http://www.joystickvault.com/showphoto.php?photo=451&cat=507

All the buttons work fine but only up and right works on it. Down gives me up and Left gives me left but it gives me LBumper at the same time. I can’t see any solder issues so far.

Also I tried using the 2 universal dpad grounds to the sticks single and it went all crazy so now I have a +/- for each direction soldered directly to the pcb.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

off topic but, is that this one: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Madcatz-Wired-Microsoft-XBOX-360-White-Controller-NEW_W0QQitemZ380129101223QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVideo_Games_Accessories?hash=item588175c5a7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A2|66%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

and is it common ground?

thanks!

Hey guys I want to know if any1 knows the 5v or the wire that i would need to solder so i could put my P360 joystick please can anyone help me? this is the link for the controller http://cgi.ebay.com/PS3-Controller-MadCatz-Great-Controller-Lighty-Used_W0QQitemZ200334230188QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVideo_Games_Accessories?hash=item200334230188&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A15|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50#ebayphotohosting

I lost the contact for the A button on my mad catz retro arcade stick. (Pulled it off accidently)
Is there any other point I can solder onto? I know that there are testing points on the back but I’m not sure how to trace it to the correct one.

EDIT: Nevermind. I found a point and got it working.

Anyone? I know that people complained that the madcatz wired ps3 pcb was of poor quality. Does the madcatz wireless ps3 controller suffer from the same cheapness?

The only problem I have with the wired PCB is that the left and down left sometimes doesn’t work other than that it works fine. Hey did u wired the madcatz controller for your ps3 and do u know where the 5v wire goes?

Ive only done the Madcatz 360 controllers so far. Havent even touched the ps3 stuff because i heard the pcb acts up.

that and with the cthulu out there, why bother with hacking a pad…

granted the cthulus are a bit of a wait, but for the size and ease, it can’t be beat…

I guess if you HAVE to have wireless, but then you just use axissadapter… :slight_smile:

True, just like to have options and try different things.

and cheaper is always better… the only issue there is having to use a dongle sucks… :frowning: unless madcatz has a bluetooth wireless pad…

I’m having trouble with the series H PS1 DS controller in a stick of mine.

When I touch the ground to each of the individual wires for their respective buttons, they fire just fine, but when I wire everything up to my stick as it should be, three of the buttons (specifically L1, Square, and R2) don’t work at all. I’m guessing it’s some kind of grounding problem?

Any help would be much appreciated.

360 Wireless Trigger Help

PCB: Microsoft 360 Wirless (Late Version) [Code: C15 visible near battery pack – common ground tested for most buttons]

So I’ve been reading through (search assisted) this thread and a few others and I’ve figured out what I need to do. However, I fear I may have just destroyed the triggers. The RT stays held down no matter what position I put the pots in. I believe my problems may have spawned because I pulled the pots off, disasembled the plastic trigger and put the pink pots back on by themselves (to make space for vertical mounting). So my question is, did I mess up the PCB and do I now need resistors for the triggers?

Images:

http://picasaweb.google.com/tlclayton/360Wireless?feat=directlink

The LT is the one being held down although RT looks like a mess right now. Any suggestions?

Also, when I test the buttons – everything works fine from the common ground except A and B. I tried B using it’s own ground and it worked and using the button inserts work (original plastic/foam thingy) for all the buttons so I know the PCB isn’t messed up entirely. Any suggestions other than keep scraping away black material? If all else fails, I can always just run two extra ground wires to the grounding bar.