Hi all!
I try to mod a HRAP2 SA whit a ASCII optical PCB, i remeber in the ps2 era some guys use his FLASH-1 stick in a PSX pcb, as i know you can only get a 3.5v using a PSX PCB instead of the 5v required but Flash-1 works good.
Now im trying to use my ASCII stick using the HRAP pcb, and the 4 basic directions (U,D,L,R) works well the problem is diagonals, i using diferent actuators (Kowal, JLF stock, Ascii) in my test whit the same results, i dont know exactly if the diagonals doesnt work for the lack of VCC power, or another thing, any idea or sugestion about my problem?
I forgot to mention, i test in a PS3 using a InPin converter.
Wuttup =) Been awhile, heh. Hope everyone’s been good. Anyway, I noticed that the Rollie flash1 that they make now does NOT include the rubber ring that came with the original Sanwa Flash1! I contacted the dude and he says he never seen it, and that he owns a couple of originals. I was hoping someone with an original flash1 could possibly post a picture of it for me? That would be much appreciated.
That sounds pretty weird. I used to have an ASCII optical in my HRAP2SA and it worked perfectly with the stock actuator, diagonals and everything. I even used it on multiple PS3s with an inPin and it didn’t give me any problems either. I wish I could give more technical advice, but it worked perfectly fine for me when I installed it on the stock Hori PCB. I didn’t have to use a voltage converter to get 5 volts or anything.
Okay so I apologize in advance but I haven’t read through all 10 pages so I don’t know if this has been addressed but I have to know; do the optical joysticks work like analog joysticks or digital joysticks? Meaning, is it on/off or can you creep with it? Please & thank you.
Friend has two (capcom vs snk) ft sticks he is gonna give me. I am gonna drop the sticks in different cases (vlx, vs)
Just a few questions:
Will a jlf squate gate fit the stick because I do not like octo? Also, will a jlf replacment spring work in it? I would like to put a 2.5 or 3lbs spring from PAS in them.
Never mind, read back a couple pages and sounds like you can. Cool!
I don’t know how relevant this is to the lot of you but I have an optical Korean joystick.
Myungshin fanta is the base and instead of microswitches there is an optical pcb and a metallic panel (to ensure the infra red is f’ed with). It’s (obviously) silent and really good. I had Gummo dual mod it @ Final Round XVII and he’d never heard of/seen on prior to that.
Need a camera but I can borrow a friend’s iphone or something, I’m sure. It’s basically a Myoungshin but instead of microswitches it’s got a pcb with infrared lights n shit with a metal panel over it. It fits on the same knobs and is held down by screws using the same holes the microswitches.
It does not fit onto a Taeyoung fanta because the assembly is different and the plastic on the bottom of that thing just doesn’t allow it without modification. It could probably fit onto a crown with some minor modification.
Silent and fairly sensitive. Probably more so than regular k-sticks. I’ll do what I can to get pictures. Also you ask Gummo I believe it was he who modded it at FR17
sorry but that’s basically it in the vids (couldn’t find them at the time). The link from the site is indeed gone (I could just about swear Laugh sold me the last one off of IST). I like it but as far as returning to neutral the stick requires the rubber grommet be relatively firm. Soft rubber is a no go as it flicks all over the place getting undesired inputs. Good stuff, though.
The tactile response of microswitches is something I’m very attached to, even if you’re going to go with the D2MV silent switch mod and get the slightest actuation force/tactile response in return.
No doubt I’d love to try it out someday, but the reason I haven’t jumped on an optical PCB just yet is because my primary method of orienteering is by using the tactile feedback from diagonals to find what angle the stick is at relative to my hand (without looking down at it, of course). The angle of the stick itself is only a problem because I tend to use a lot of smaller and sloped sticks (i.e. not rectangular prisms, think the Namco) which can transit a good deal of my lap without my noticing, but I digress. If I don’t know the angle, I can’t predict where directionals are, and it causes erroneous input.
If I installed an optical pcb in anything, it’d most likely be a stick with a larger base, something like an HRAP where it would be more difficult to let the thing slip 30 degrees from horizontal while I’m playing (lol).
