Nice build specs. Video a little shaky, and I had to pause and reply several times. But that is a great effort.
Overall your short 2 minuet video is nice, but try the same test for 24 hours straight. I not actually expecting you to do so.
I sticking to my statement as heat builds up performance tends to drop on all components and parts (including the PSU output). And old and no longer practice for unscrupulous manufacturers was to refrigerate their PSU to get the results they want. A PSU is alot like your car, your car manufacturer might say your top speed is 120 mph for your automobile but good luck getting that speed in real life.
Ever notice how as your PC overheats so does your CPU and GPU slows down a bit? The same applies to the PSU.
On the short term, what I am pointing out seems trivial or even catering to the Big-bad-corporations, but I don’t go suggesting a better PSU for nothing.
Yes there is this margin of safety that probity never gets surpassed on PSU requirements on Video cards, but at the same time a 400 - 500 Watt quality PSU is not that expensive.
There is no harm in ever getting a larger Watt rating PSU than you need, but there alot of risk running a PSU that barely makes specs. Especially a PSU out of a off the shelf PC.
Does anyone here use displayfusion? I heard it has an option to open fullscreen applications on any monitor in your setup as opposed to only the main one but it doesn’t seem to be working.
Look my motherboard Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 out of nowhere (quite literally in the middle of playing something) decided that all analog audio ports are dead to it.
It picks up that ports are there but plugging anything in doesn’t get read, I tested the cables and devices themselves (headphones, speakers, etc) and they all work fine, I’ve wiped drivers put back drivers reset a ton and nothing seems to wanna bring them back from the dead, it can’t be a loose cable they’re literally on the board. What do I do?
Any chance you have Digital(Fiber) out? Sounds like your DAC died. It can happen, but I’ve never heard of it doing so.
I’ve got a busted rear-audio jack on my mobo(cat yanked on the cable, it survived, the jack didn’t), but that’s fine as I still have front panel audio, and I intend to get myself a DAC at some point.
I kinda figured it was worthless, as very few things actually make use of it. I just wanted you to try digital to see if the DAC was the problem, or if it’s something else.
My preorder comes tomorrow of the I7 4790K (4.0-4.4 Ghz Haswell), Been waiting on the release of the devils canyon for a while now… got my Z97 board today… Always liked Gigabyte boards and this is perfect for overclocking. Still going with liquid cooling so should be fun.
Will post some pics of the upgrade this weekend… Something crazy to note… Win 8.1 can (supposedly) take a new proc/Mobo without reinstall… even going from AMD to Intel and vice versa. I am going from a Socket 775 to 1150 so I will be really impressed if it works…
Time to finally put my almost 8 year old proc to rest (in my gaming rig, probably gonna get re-purposed somehow)
For general use, I’d recommend the G400s from Logitech. Really rock-solid mouse, great build quality. It’s MSRP is $60, but I imagine you can buy it for $50 from Amazon or Newegg.
Normally, I’d recommend Razer products but their build quality on their mice is questionable.
I’m an idiot so I jumped on a deal where I found the Razer Mamba for about half-price, even against my better judgment due to my experience with Razer products crapping out within a couple of months of use.
The mouse will not connect wirelessly on any PC after literally less than 2 days of use. I can plug it in with the USB cable and it works fine, but the wireless is completely non-functional, and that’s the very reason why I spent the extra money on this mouse. Now I’ve gone back to my logitech M510 which isn’t good enough for high-level gaming (quick sleep mode, low polling rate), but at least I can use it wirelessly, unlike this 5th or 6th Razer piece of shit I have.
(Yeah, I’m salty. )
I would suggest something like a Logitech G700s (link) if you’re looking for something wireless, or a G400s if you want wired (link). Logitech products are generally very reliable, and reasonably priced for the product.