The new one with the white round plug often are Series H.
Flip it over and look, you’ll see a letter by the made in china printing/molding.
System_1
1862
I assumed that the back would be obstructed by the packaging, so this works out nicely!
I am curious as to why you prefer to wire the series H to the points by the ribbon connector instead of doing it dreamcast style and removing the black stuff. I’m not doubting your method whatsoever (because you know a hell of a lot more than me), I’m just wondering why.
One more quick question- I noticed that MAS systems will simply add another PCB in the stick if someone requests multiple systems. Is this poor practice or does it work just fine? For example, if I wire in a saturn and psone to a single stick will this have any negative consequences down the road?
System_1
1863
Sometimes you can go through the used section and pic up a controller this way. Most of the round PSOne controllers were Series H. I believe that some of the newer ones use the film.
I like going to where the ribbon cable was soldered down cause it’s easy and I don’t have to map the traces and also go out and dremmel off the black crap. It’s just easier. Oddly series H digitals also have little exposed dots of copper to easily solder to.
I’ve never tried to wire up multiple controller PCBs at once. I just find it unelegant and messy sounding in theory. Adaptors seem a more elegant solution so in theory I just don’t like it so never tried. I can’t forsee any problems though.
When Mas sell’s a stick for more than one system they are not increasing the number of PCBs. They have one big PCB and if you request more than one system they just add the Dreamcast or Ps2 or whatever chip onto the board and the cord to plug into the system. That way the inside doesn’t get too messy.
They also use adaptors for PSX boards. They seem to have multiple solutions and are not completely consistent in this area.
Ok I’m going to at least attempt to make my own stick. I have some crap to solder and a few PCB’s hanging around. Just wanted to ask a few questions cause I think if get all the material needed it will give me some motivation to take a stab at it.
Ok so from what I read Competion and supers are the best sticks to go for (I dont really care for P360’s). Could anybody guide me on which one to use as my first stick?
Also a question on the buttons, what type of buttons would complement the sticks? If somebody could please give me the pros and cons on the different types of buttons that would be great.
Toodles
1867
I’ve heard a lot more recommendations for competition sticks than supers, and I love my comp stick. The pictures of supers I have seen show they use levers; the shaft moves the lever which pressed the contact on the microswitch. I prefer the competition method, which has a plastic block actuator on the bottom, which presses the contact on the switches directly. Matter of opinion, but my vote is for competitions.
For buttons, you are probably going to choose between ultimate and competition buttons; construction appears the same, with the main difference being concave (ultimate) vs convex (competition) plungers. Consensus says to avoid the buttons with vertical mounted microswitches. Both comp and ult buttons are reliable and solid, and clicky. ult buttons have the usualy USA style concave tops, and comps look more like convex jap buttons, but retain the USA style solid click feel. You may want the ultimates since they are the ones used in most arcades that cater to the general public instead of serious fighters. I prefer the competitions because the buttons feel less obstrusive; easier to access all of the buttons you need.
So, the answer to your question is that it is all opinion only, and work basically the same. I vote for comp sticks and comp buttons.
RoTeNdO
1868
Joysticks are pretty much a preference thing for each person. I prefer competitions and ultimate js w/hard spring over supers any day.
Go w/ comp buttons over anything else or horizontal pb rather than ultimate pb which are too hard and stick out too high.
Then don’t forget the button layout or control panel layout.
Good luck 
System_1
1869
I already posted this picture over at virtuafighter.com, but I’ll post it here anyways. I made these two sticks using Catch22’s guide because I think he makes the best custom sticks. You can see his examples at http://members.cox.net/vtomas5/joystick_builder/gallery/index.htm .
One stick is a japanese style stick with sanwa parts and the other one is american with happ parts (need to get some different color buttons), but I used japanese button config for both.
I used sony ps dualshocks in both because I found out it was possible from you guys here (series H!). I tried making an underlay by ripping the art from GBA SSF2X, but it didn’t turn out as well as I hoped (I’m a photoshop beginner). They are slightly different, as I tried different arrangements, but I’m probably going to swap them for something else soon. I’m going to start some new sticks soon because I have a lot to improve on!
http://members.aol.com/salamz/version1whiteb.jpg
http://members.aol.com/salamz/version1blackb.jpg
http://members.aol.com/salamz/version1black.jpg
Very nice work and construction. For some reason I really do prefer a slanted top. 10 deg is about right.
It’s obvious that you prefer the flat top Sega/Ascii/Agetec style, but that’s just a difference in opinion.
Nice use of 24mm buttons though…
I personally think that although Catch22’s sticks are superb that his underlay support/construction of supporting the lexan top is a bit weak. I think that routing out the top of the case for the Sanwa plate is the strongest way of supporting the stick and the Lexan. Laying in ribs is just a wast of time making sure everything fits perfectly.
Then again that’s just construction perspectives so I can’t fault him.
Does a sanwa need support? Aren’t the normal control panels for them just metal plates housed in molded plastic cases? I wouldn’t think a ‘top’ is really nessecary as long as the lexan is secured to the wood frame somehow (maybe with wood blocks?
Actually it’s extremely strong, and after I secured my inner frame to the base it was able to support my entire body weight. You use two levels of “rafters”, use wood glue and screws to hold things together, and make sure things are properly supported. Routing the top is by no means an inferior solution, I just don’t have those tools. Also remember that the sticks he uses, and the one I used, are sanwas that do not have the metal mounting plate- so routing wouldn’t be easy.
I don’t have the slanted top simply because I play on a table in front of a couch- and the slant isn’t necessary. If I ever want to play with the slant I could just adjust the feet under the base.
Yes, they do need support. Underneath the lexan is a “rafter system” that supports everything, and you can see it on catch’s tutorial.
When I read the section my response was: wtf is all that wood doing there. Let me rephrase the question: when i take apart an agetec, i see a metal plate and the case. The ascii sticks don’t appear to have much more than that. The namco is pretty much just a metal enclosure with holes. But his stick has some maze of wood in there, and noone has been able to tell me what the reasoning is for having it. It looks really well thought out but it’s not explained very well.
If you use plexi instead, i can see that it might crack or not hold up. There are also varying strengths of polycarbonate (branded as lexan/lucite/etc…), so maybe a stronger piece would work better.
RoTeNdO
1874
awesome work on those sticks. Looks really great.
Dc1
1875
can anybody tell me how to wire the dreamcast joystick to the button on a stick
I’m making my own dreamcast arcade stick but I do not know the spots on the standard dreamcast to solder the wires for the bottons to
can anybody tell me the spots and if you have a picture that’ll be great
thanks
It can be confusing, so let me try and explain it better.
Sanwa sticks AND buttons are designed to be mounted on an thin metal control panel. The buttons snap into place, and are essentially anchored to the metal panel. Thats what your agetec stick has that you mentioned.
With homemade sticks, it isn’t fun working with metal- and a cheaper and easier way is to simply use lexan as an alternative to a metal control panel. It’s easier to work with, cheap, and you can put a nice underlay in there. So in order to support the lexan in your joystick base, you need to put a frame in there to support the lexan- one that allows room for the joystick and buttons. Lexan is strong, but it still needs a solid support frame.
Your agetec stick has the plastic base, and in the middle is the metal control panel. We are simply using a piece of lexan as the metal control panel- but it needs extra support so it can be as rigid and solid as that metal.
To be honest with you, on my american stick and stuck sanwa obsf 24 buttons in my MDF top panel and they fit in there nice and snug. They aren’t “clicked” into place, but are quite secure in there (i’m gonna get screw type 24s from happ anyway).
Thanks for the comments. Now onto my next question.
Okay so for my PS2 PCB I used one of the pads that I never use. I used the cyber shock pad by blaze:
http://www.lik-sang.com/image.php?category=14&products_id=560&img=ps-cybershock
The pcb board was a nightmare to even take out. Also from the pictures of other pcb boards that I have seen it looks like it would be harder to solder.
Could you recommend me some cheap pads that would be easy to solder and the like? Thanks.
As hosted on my site:
TGC
1879
The sony “H” series has a common ground???
If not, what are some good CHEAP pads that do.
yeah, the H series have a common ground. I think armad’s site has pictures
I came across a site that has the newer ps2 dualshocks (emerald and what not) pictured with relatively easy solder points where the ribbon connects to the pcb. I’ll find post the link once I find it.
