The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

ROTENDO: auto cad is a program for drawing blue prints, but you really dont need it, hit me up on aim
bboystep
and we’ll talk

rotendo: can I have the japanese agetec joystick that you rip out from your agetec?
:wink:

Let me know about the status of that guy. If not, then I can sell you the joystick. I have two empty Agetecs if you want parts from it. Only thing it doesn’t have are the pcb’s.

Rotendo (or anyone)

How hard would adding an Xbox PCB to a MAS be? Cause I’m thinking about hacking a Reflex, and just putting the guts and shit inside with the MAS I already have so I wouldn’t have to make an Xbox stick.

Hi everybody, Just wanted to say hi and give some input as well as ask a question.

This has been a great thread, in fact I’ve read all 105 pages (default view without registering), and I decided to make my own stick. Instead of going all out, I decided to order the redoctane box with pcb (no stick, no buttons) and some parts from haps to throw it all together.

I wanted to offer some info about it:

First of all the box is designed ok. The space inside is a little cramped, so there’s not a lot of room for drilling more holes. Some people complained that the start button on the regular octane stick is a little too close to the main 6 for the standard SF layout, so I ordered a button plug and put that in and moved the start button over one. In total there are 9 holes, 6 for the standard SF layout, 2 for start/select, and 1 for the stick.

Second, the box I ordered did come with a lexan/plexi cover (or something of the see through smooth nature), unattached. It had all the holes drilled except for the stick itself. :o So I found myself putting in the stick first, then the cover, then the buttons to hold it in place…which works ok, but I get the feeling that it vibrates a little when i hit my punch buttons a little hard. I wish I had a drill.

Third, the pcb is disappointing. I mainly got it because I didn’t want to do any soldering (since I don’t have the money to spend on an iron and time to mess with it just yet).

The wires were ok, not great. To my surprise they all came with quick disconnects already on…and to my dismay, I found out that only 5 of them were the right size (joystick and ground), the rest were too small, so I had to recrimp those suckers. In addition, the ground itself was only done singularly, so I had to cut it and recrimp it in a daisy chain style. And lastly, none of the wires were labeled so I had to do some blind checking touching wires together until I found the ground.

The other disappointing thing is, RedOctane decided to leave out L1 and L2…I don’t know if it’s missing all together from the pcb, but it’s definitely not soldered.

So basically, the box is ok, check one of the other threads for more info about that. The pcb could’ve been much better, but I guess for only $5 and no hassle, you could do far worse. In the future I’ll probably replace it when I get enough time. I recommend the box to those of you who are afraid to work with wood, just be prepared to spend a lot of time with a chisel so your stick won’t be so short, and I only recommend the pcb for the truly lazy, I really really suggest you learn how to solder and go with a 3rd party pcb.

Now for my question. Thanks to all of you guys’ info, I was able to successfully put it together in 2 days. First day it took me a few hours to chisel into the top for the stick so it wouldn’t be so short, by then I realized that some of the quick disconnects didn’t fit, but all the stores around here were close to closing so I wasn’t able to go out until today, and I got all the wiring done.

Anyway, the problem is this: I wired all of my buttons except for select, which is just in the box dangling freely. Unfortunately, if I turn on my ps2 and have my stick plugged in, some of the buttons turn “rapid”; in other words, if I hold them down, they work rapidly…but if I unplug the stick and plug it back in without turning off the system, the problem goes away. I’ve tried reseting and that doesn’t work; I always put my ps2 into standby mode vs turning it off. After some testing, I found out it happens on the same buttons: start, square, circle and R2.

Why does this happen? Is it just because RedOctane’s pcb and cord are crap? Any help is appreciated.

Quick, what’s the best next controller to hack for Xbox besides the Reflex?

madcatz…:cool:

Madkatz…what? Any Madkatz controller? And will it be compatible with XBL?

The ones they sell at Wal-Mart. Perfect, I just picked up 2 Madcatz controller for the PSX/PS2 for only $4.99 each :eek: can’t beat that now.

Have you seen some for Xbox?

controller converters

Hmmm…I was wondering…I have a p360 based stick at home and it is hacked from a PS1 controller. Now will this work when I try to connect to a gamecube or Xbox via a converter? I am not sure if it will still draw the voltage needed to make things work…

rotendo: i just thought i’d hit your thread up. nice thread…i’ma eventually get my own custom arcade stick. i could prolly do the art for it too.:cool: i’ma need this thread…

Soulblade136: Yes, but it’s a bit more than $4.97 and something like $14.99 or so.

Ookima: Yes, but not all 3rd party controllers are compatible with converters and only Official SONY PSX/PS2 controllers are garaunteed to work on them.

Brutha’ Mayne: Yeah, any questions you have will be answered here by either SNAAAKE, Dreaded Fist, myself of someone else.

This is a great thread. I’m thinking about going into this scene myself, taking my interest in video games to a more constructive approach. Building sticks, and if my first one goes good, I’ll make more then sell them. And maybe I can quit my retail job (ahh my life with no more 4 AM dragging sessions…) if it’s cookies and cake from there. Don’t wanna look way forward yet, but it’s nice to have for an in-house biz, like this man I knew that did car interiors straight from his own garage at his house.

Now one question, as far as joysticks go, what kind do most people use? Competition sticks, or p360’s?

And aren’t p360’s the most expensive like 40 bucks and over?

hello. a question that REALLY bugs me as of half an hour ago…

does anyone kno if the dream connection II (lets u plug in psx controller into DC) sold at http://www.innovation1.com/ can damage the psx controller?!?!

I was playing some cvs2 today and out of nowhere my joystick stopped working!! I tried many times restarting the system and only once it worked again but stopped working at the SAME point it stopped last time (prior to choosing a blue outfit terry bogard versus ryu in training mode… too weird).

anyways I plugged the thing back into a my psx and it still dont work… so if anyone has any info about how the inovation can screw your controller it would help me I guess…

also I think a simple solution would be (if it is the controller part thats messed up) jus to buy a new controller and rewire everything… sux I gotta bug my friend now.

EDIT>>>

and while on this topic, here’s some curiousity poll questions:

what are some other common reasons why custom sticks can break??? and how often have you had one break on you?? I kno a friend of mine had a zugg stick that he needed fixed one time. anyway thats all, jus curious.

Figured I might as well hop on these:

I’m a bit of a joystick buildin nut and right now I have two sets of sticks, one US style (that true to US design philosophy is too big, and is hard to use on your lap. Works great on a table though!) and my two new Japanese style sticks I just built (that are small, efficient, easy to have on your lap and play, but sadly don’t have the same nice feel as the US ones).

Japanese style:

http://web.njit.edu/~jal0737/GFX/Misc/newjoysticks.jpg
http://web.njit.edu/~jal0737/GFX/Misc/joysticks_side.jpg - only 1.7" thick!!! :smiley:

US Style:

http://web.njit.edu/~jal0737/GFX/Neo-Geo/3rd%20Gen%20Sticks.jpg

Stock these are Neo-Geo and PSX compatable and I have adapters to use it with PC, DC, XBox, and eventually I’ll get some PSX to GC adapters as well.

Also they’ve got a dual layout similar to the X-Arcade and hot rod controllers so I can have a button style that fits with just about anything I’d want (easy to have the Capcom, SNK, VF, and Tekken layouts). Oh and the Japanese style sticks have 4 common lines run to them just incase I ever have to hack an evil multi-common joystick/pad. :stuck_out_tongue:

Nice sticks, man. The japanese styles definitely remind me of Hori style sticks.

ok metal cutting fiends~!

how do I make this cut,

attachment, i need to cut a piece out of a metal pipe

help with p360

Does anyone know for sure if the ps1 madcatz has a 5volt power source (enough current) for the perfect 360 joystick because i am not satisfied with the ultimate joystick i recently built for fighting games. If the gamepad does support p360, are the ground and positive wires: black and orange or red i think. one last, are they located towards the center of the gamepad where the rainbow colored wires (i think 7 wires) connect from the back of the gamepad. please help. Thanks.

Is there a drill bit size I need to use for drilling carriage bolts? If so, what is the correct size?

1/4" :cool: