The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

I cant figure out what I’m doing wrong. Everything is soddered and grounded. When I test it with my meter all the connections work,but when I actually hook it up to my psx nothing works. At one point the start button was working and nothing else was, but now I’m back to no buttons working. Any ideas what I might check to resolve this?

from the sounds of it, everything sounds good. i guess check to make sure you didn’t cross any live and ground connections. but since ur already checked i assume that’s not ur problem. the only thing i can suggest is just buy a new pcb since nothing else seems to work. u might have burned out something while soldering.

yo whats up everyone…

an update with my project: things are looking good, i got the box built and painted. but i didn’t drill the holes to mount the joystick or buttons yet.

so i got two questions

  1. what is the standard spacing for the 6 button capcom fighter layout? and also how far should the middle of the joystick hole be from the middle of the left-most button’s hole? i got that template but seriously i don’t think that would help me more than actually knowing those measurements.

  2. and what kind of bit did yall use to drill the hole for the joystick? i was wondering if it should be a different size from the bit used to make the hole for the buttons.

oh and ordering from therealbobroberts.com was really easy and he seems like a nice guy. i would give it a try if you have trouble with other places. (i haven’t ordered from other places tho)

thanks everyone

  1. the general consensus is that standard is 1.5 inches from center to center of each button and the stick is 4 inches away horizontaly from the center of left most buttons. but u don’t gotta stick to this if u don’t wanna.

  2. 1 1/8" for the buttons and opening for the joystick. the size for the holes to hold the joystick depends on which holes u use n wat not.

sounds good dude. good luck :smiley:

most def man. thanks for your help. :smiley:

btw, soldering is really easy lol

That’s good to know since people really overexaggerate soldering.

shadowblade start/select buttons

Sorry for the late reply, but I’ve been really busy with work and fam. Anyway, if you ever seen a Arcade Pro stick before for the PSX, it’s almost the same type of stick. Take a look at my stick, to get a a look at the insides. If it looks something like the Shadowblade, let me know. Oh, and hurry up with the pics!! :smiley: So we can help you out better.

hm, question : can i make a good connection by soldering my wire to already existing solder points that were originally on the controller when i bought it?

existing points has VERY little solder.
Use some more…:cool:

well if u want to sure, but just as SNAAKE said, there’s very little solder on it. u should tin the wire before also but u prob already know that. the only prob i can think of is that if all the solder points are right next to each other, it can get tricky cuz u don’t wanna make a bridge between other solder points. good luck :smiley:

:slight_smile: :smiley: :cool: :wink:

update: i got … em… my dad got the woodwork completely done tonight, and i got the buttons mounted and everything. (it’s good to be 4th gen. carpenter/upholsterer.)

i have yet to fully hack the gamepad but i really wanna get some pics up. i will as soon as i make friends with someone who has a scanner lol, thanks all :slight_smile: also, cutting lexan is really fucking hard, but it’s all good because i found a really nice 8"x14" piece at home depot. i needed 8"x11" so that was easy…

cool, i just finished my stick a couple days ago, i can finally pull off 360 moves with ease now :lol: u thought cutting lexan was hard?did u use a jigsaw cutter?

Hook us up with the pics of your stick. (Did I just rhyme?)

er, my dad grabbed some razor looking thing, but i meant like it was real hard to drill holes in lol.

omg, i got one last question: how do you attach quick disconnects to wiring and to the microswitches?, help me i am stupid lol.

btw, fuck wire strippers… fuck them hard… just scissor that shit down lol

:lol: sissor them out? well watever works for u :smiley: u just got to spin the stripper around once u do the initial stipping cut thingee… watever u wanna call it. as for quick disconnects just push the quick disconnect on to the metal prong on the swtich. the one on the bottom (it’s bent at like 90 degrees) is ur common ground and the 1 above (the one that says NO aka normally open) is where u put the live 1 2. hope that helps good luck man.

shadowblade start/select button

help!! what do i do with these. the select and start button are still connected to the pcb (2 blue buttons). i zoomed in as close as i could. there are 2 contactors under the start/select buttons exactly like the ones next to them in the pic (little black box). trying to figure out how to use this pcb for my panel. any ideas?

shadowblade start/select button

use a blade to scarp the black stuff then you will see gold contact.
SOLDER ! :smiley:

its’ a contactor much like the ones used with your joystick actuator. there’s nothing to scrape off. it’s a switch.

Argh! I got my box built and was testing it out. I found these bugs in my stick. In guilty gear x2 all the buttons work, but in cvs2 only a few buttons work. Also in guilty gear my left only works if i tap it, and the my right doesnt work at all. In CvS2 however the controller seems to be stuck in the up back position.
I just find it strange the 2 different games register the buttons differently.

how’s ur soldering? it might not even be that, for me, i used a mad catz n the traces underneath were bad. maybe its just ur board, maybe a pic of ur board would be good