yeah, hahah thats right, no dc to anything converter, i think you can get away with your approach though. If anythign mess up you can always replace your controller port.
btw, heres a picture of the stick i made for alikebeingalive:
check PM ! 
yo snaake you just pmed me back with the prices and everything for the arcade stick you were going to build for me but your emails is full or whateva so anyway
yes i would like all the specs you described in your pm including artwork and plexiglass and my budget is around $120-130 and i would like a singleplayer arcade stick not the double. holla back with address, shipping cost , any info u might need, oh and do u do overnight shipping. oh and its for the ps2.
errr…talking to me there ?
Yeah I got an email saying you tried sending a message but my inbox was full…talking to me ? 
maybe you tried to send the message to rotendo?
Ok, I looked inside, the new question is, how do I wire this thing correctly? I can solder well but I’m not good with grounding, conductivity, etc. I’ve tried to follow the thread, but I’m not very sure.
The PCB is an old PS1 controller(1st gen)
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There is a ground wire connecting all the buttons (and one to the stick) in the Agetec, do I need to wire that to the new pcb at all, or can I leave it alone?
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Where exactly on the pcb should I connect? The button contact points are odd. There are points that lead to the cord, can I possibly use those, or must i expose something on the board for each button?
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Anyone happen to know the color coding for the wires to the stick(time saver)?
no when i posted i mistakenly put rows name my bad but anyway i just sent u a pm sorry about the mix up:o
I got the pm. Hahaha, no problem. I would make you a stick if I had time, still build for people, and if I wasn’t too busy changing damn diapers and leading my Marines. (that’s a 24 hour job already)
Hook him up SNAAAKE.
on the pcb you only need one ground leading to the button, since there should already be ground wires daisy chained on the buttons/stick. If it’s a psx pad, there should be black crud on right? scrape it off with an exacto knife and solder to the copper underneath, the actual copper point is pretty small. The point that leads to a black blob in teh middle is the hot point and the one that are connected to each other is the ground. Put a blob of hot glue on top of each solder connection to ensure that it won’t come off, which it shouldn’t, but better to be safe, nah mean? good luck foo!
Hey Dreaded Fist, or anyone.
How do you find the +5 volt wire on the PS2 pad? I’m using a Mad Catz Duel Force.
I tried using a voltmeter, but there seems to be more than one wire providing the necessary voltage.
anyone wanna’ hook me up with two dc sticks for hella’ cheap?
i dont need grade-a workmanship on the casing or anything, no pics and shit or plexi glass. i just need a box with some comp. sticks and convex buttons. i just need somethin’ that’ll work good.
anyone think they can hook me up with some bargain prices?
Thanks, I think I’m almost ready to do it, but I’m not clear on what’s the ground. The traces all lead together to a ic on the pcb. Besides that, I think I’m set.
the ground is the copper point that connects to a bunch of copper points, u can just follow the traces, i nornally wire the ground to the points on teh directionals, since they tend to be big half circles of copper. Think of the word common. They’re all connected to each other.
qwzy, check pm nig nog.
Ok I’m having a problem in the carpentry department…well it may turn out to be a problem.
For the wood I’m using 1/2 inch particle board. Now here’s the problem. I’m having trouble finding hinges with screws small enough so that when I screw the hinges to the particle board the screws don’t pop out on the other side
I’ve included a sketch to help demonstrate what I’m talking about. The sketch should be easy enough to figure out. Those lines represent the screws poking out the other side.
For the hinges I bought 2 brass 1/2 inch hinges…practically the smallest they had because of the screw issue. I just hope the screws and hinges will be strong enough.
Build It
For your amusement I present the following story
I went to Home Depot on my anniversary with my girlfriend of 4 years. Anyways we’re getting out of the car and she says hurry up I wanna give you your present. I’m thinking oh shit I totally forgot a card and everything. So anyways I start buying all these materials and she’s like what the fuck is he getting all this stuff for. She didn’t know I was building myself a joystick at the time. So me being the genius that I am I show her the diagram of the box I was going to build for my joystick. Then I totally pulled this story out of my ass how I thought it would be nice if I made a box for her so she could put all her “relationship” stuff in (love letters and that kind of crap). I told her I planned to make it so that the lid will have scanned pictures of us with the Lexan covering and that on the inside will be a handwritten message on the bottom of the lid. She totally ate it up but the downside is now I gotta make 2 boxes. Oh well at least I’m not in the dog house.
Oh sorry about the rant…If you wanna pay a hundred bux go with Xarcade
(In response to someone asking what kind of joystick they should buy)
quick question, what IC is in the MAS PC Board for the dreamcast controller??
:lol: So glad I don’t have a girlfriend anymore.
ha ha hahahahaha but since you’re making a box for here just make a straight up box. dont put any slants in it. It’ll be funny if u make a mas clone with the corners like that and everything lol:lol:
amusing story indeed, you’re pretty slick to be able to fool her like that.
btw you’re making your box so that it opens from the side?
I might sound crazy, but seriously, all the traces lead to the chip in the middle. There is a black wire that goes from the pcb to the cord, can I use that? And do I need to ground each button and directional, or will one point do it?
The lid is clam style just like every other box…
Any ideas about what to do with the screws?
rheman, just use a saw and cut it off man, just so it’ll fit, it 1/2" is deep enough to hold, and since you’re putting lexan and artwork on top u can just drill it straight thru.
for the ground, you only need one ground coming from the pcb.