ya
its not something you just do without knowing anything…BUT here is a very reasonable guide that will help you.
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/panel.html
study the guide…easy 
OR is it:confused: ?
I knew it. Curse my luck. :bluu:
Let’s see… how’bout I buy just the base, stick
and buttons from you guys? I’ll see if I can hack
a Reflex myself (or hopefully find a friend who
can do it for me). Will you still be able to build
the base with the layout that I wanted?
For some reason, I have a problem with my joystick now.
When I try and move right, it’ll input two times; which makes it dash. This happens 1/4 times tested.
Did the following, but still acts screwy:
- I was thinking maybe its the microswitch, so I switched it out with one of the buttons I dont use: nope
- I wiggled and reattached the quick disconnect wires several times: nope
- Checked the wiring, to make sure its not touching any other wiring: nope
- Unsoldered the right point on the pad, and resoldered it back: nope
The only thing left is making a brand new wire for the Right Direction, and re-soldering to the pad.
Any other suggestions?
Yeah I can probley do it…I only got comp,ultimate and x-arcade joystick and regular happs buttons(the ones cost $2 each).
Now I can do the base with that weird layout…
i was wondering if anyone has mad a stick out of the original DC controler? I reviewed the link on the front page, put i don’t understand it. If anyone could help me out, i would greatley appreciate it! thanks!
Well, I’m going to be done with all 4 sticks soon, and I started checking out the look of things by mounting the buttons and stick in the board. I was satisfied with the buttons, there are in a nice and pretty accurate formation, but the competition stick sits too low. I’m currently mounting all this to 3/4 inch thick lumber and was wondering if anyone has any tips for how to get the stick to stick out higher. I was thinking about using 1/2 inch thick lumber instead (for the face panel). I think this would be all I need to do to get the right stick height, but I’m open for suggestions.
NORMALLY I use 5/8" MDF and 1/8" plexi glass.
then you get perfect height. 
Went to radio shack and purchased the 10ohm 1watt resistor
resolder that to my dc . Then I looked over my mas, some wires
were frayed (thin wires)
:eek: so I had to resolder my ps2 cord and some buttons wires
that came lose . Its working fine now .
Maybe you need to try a multitester and some electrical tape on
your solder connections . I had the same problem with my mas
Do you have analog & digital ? If I was you I resolder the pad .
hope that helps
OK, I’m using a 3rd Party Gamecube pad to rewire an old stick I bought for my import SC2. Problem is, whenever I plug the damned thing it, it reads the Start button constantly. Sometimes when I shake the PCB, it fixes itself temporarily, but eventually goes back to the constant start problem. Help?
How much would the base be with a competition stick
and the shipping?
Dreaded Fist, would you happen to have the convex
buttons? How much would your base be with those
specs?
One last thing before I wander off: Does anyone know
of a step-by-step guide for a Reflex hack? I found this
one site on the first page of the thread (here), but are
there any others out there that are easier to follow than that?
It shows what to do and where everything goes, but I
stress the fact that this is going to be my first custom stick
project… I don’t know how to ground wires or mount pcb’s… 
did that pad have any turbo or anything.This happends random when turbo pads are used.
BUT you said shaking helps so I am guessing the start joint is touching the ground as well.
try resoldering.
That was the problem on the first PCB I tried. I’m working on the second, and haven’t connected the start button, but its still happening.
And yes, it does have a turbo function. Any advice on how to remove it?
As well, I cut the cords to the C-hat and the Rumble motor.
Maybe I should just ask what you would clean a dirty PCB with.
All this has helped me out some in mastering the art of making joysticks :D. Sucks though I paid SAV $400 to make me a stick only for him to not reply to me and keep my damn money ain’t that a bitch. Can’t even trust a SF player these days.
D
trying scraping all around your solder point…if even a little solder is making things connect , shit will go nuts…i’ve had that problem in the past…
also, you could also, reset the controller…try plugging and unplugging…i had a problem before where all the buttons would go turbo…but after i plug and unplug, shit works great…that was the first stick i ever made tho…i know it has something to do w/ the shitty controller i wired it up with…but it only happend like twice and that was months ago…no problems w/ anything now…
one thing…everyone should always test the controller before hacking it(usually if its brand new & 3rd party)…kuz if its broke to begin w/, then you’ll never get that thing working.laters
yo… i have a x arcade stick… how do i get a ps2 thing on there if i wanted to do it myself… right now it has the same cable plug as a comp screen… so what do i need to get it to work on a ps2…
Critical I don’t have any parts with me but I can order them. I think Snake can get it to you faster than I can though. So go with him. He’s your man. Plus i’m too busy to make a stick right now. If you need anything else in the future though, feel free to holla. HOLLAA!
all i need is the thing that lets my xarcade stick to play in the ps2… right now it has the same plug as a PC screen has… and one that looks like a mouse can plug into it…
x-arcade sells adaptors…call them and they can hook you up…it suck ass though…begeezus…$35 for extra adaptor from x-arcade:lame: .