the blue wire is the ground, for most controllers, you only need 1 common ground. the red wires are for the buttons.
okay that explains a lot. but last question, when i connect all the blue wires to the stick and buttons…where do i put it on the pad?
I ordered a Red Octane stick (to hack of course) on Monday, and I still haven’t received the “its been sent” email. How long did it take you guys to get yours?
Quick question:
How would one go about replacing the gray controller cord for an Agetec Arcade Stick?
Everything else is intact, but a short in the cord has rendered it nonfunctional.
Help appreciated.
This might be posted 100x… sifting through these boards for the 5th time in a while doesn’t sound fun…
Anyway…
Graphic under Lexan. How should I go about doing that?
I have NO clue how this works…
I’ve heard from one a while back, the fellow mentioned printinf something on your comp, getting it enlarged to photo paper at Business depo or whatever?
What about vinyl? Cost? What do you need to bring them?
My box is 10x14, so I can’t really print anything on my printer…
Thanks.
I ordered one in the morning and picked it up the same afternoon.
Pierre B.
wtf?
ack…i just cant get the P360 to work with my madcatz PS1 controller…Dual Force 1 its called. All my buttons work and I wired the P360 to a 3.3v source…but for some reason it is some how voltage dividing and only being provided around 1.7v. I tried all the wires that were giving out 3.3v and nothing is happening.
I’m gonna make a stick for my bro, so I want to know which stick is better. The Super or Competition joystick? He mostly plays the Vs games and I would like to know which is better for those games? Which one is the closes to the actual sticks in the arcade and which one is better in doing fireball motions? I would get him the P360 but don’t want to spend 40 bucks just for him to mash with and probably break in a few days. Any help will be appreciated.
easy Q’s answered…
print out your graphics on your comp…as large as you can…a full page is good…should be 8 1/2 X 11…then go to kinkos and have them enlarge it…only costs $2.14 for a 11x17 color copy on photo paper…
then cut your graphics to size…you said 10/14…then put it on top of your joystick…then place the plexiglass on top and drill all your holes(buttons, joystick, carriage bolts, etc)…screw in everything and you’re done…
this is the way i’ve always done mine and quality has been excellent…you can always save your pics to a disk and bring them the disk so they can print the pics also…just depends on how you wanna do things…
ps.look for sticks made by other people on this thread…theres plenty of good examples…pics are all over the place…just search…
i’ve always used competitions in my joysticks…tried super and ultimate and didnt like it…i think the comp stick is as close to p360 as you’re gunna get w/out spending 40…IMO
all i need is help with making a casing for the arcade stick since i think i can have everythign else taken care of. any help for a box of sorts.
I have a question about overlays. I have a wood finish on the top of my stick, but can I get the overlay printed out on vinyl and still be able to stick it to my stick somehow? I really don’t want to use lexan or any other plastic over it. I just want the overlay right on top of the wood. Thanks
making a custom stick is all about experimenting…i would think double sided tape would do the trick…or some kind of glue that sprays out of a can(forget what its called) would keep it intact also…
doing it that way would definately save time & money(deending how much they charge to print on vinyl) and you wouldn’t have to be as careful drilling as you would plexi/lexan…
you can also laminate your artwork and find a way to secure it to your box(buttons will hold it in place but you would want to hold down the edges with glue/screws, something very durable)[[although you don’t want plastic over your art, it will protect it…not having anything over your art might leave it vulnerable to scratches/ripping/wearing down.]]
thing is, the plexi is a real nice touch and you can expect the overlay to outlast the buttons/lexan/joystick/etc.
sevenD_eight: Do you know what Mas Systems uses on they overlay/underlay dealy? That seems to hold really well and I wanted something very similar to that.
Japanese Sticks
**Anyone know where I can purchase online the japanese joystick with the american “bat style” top. I had a link befor but lost it **
Also I am having trouble with a Madcatz soldering project. All buttons work fine except the kicks, which do work except they will only work when the button is Released. Wierd. Its colored madcatz with 6 button face and analog triggers. I tried soldering 2 seperate grounds like AntOne suggested but it didnt work. Any advice is well appreciated.
i just got a new controller FOR FREE and i’d like to know where the soldering points are…please help
donaldducktm: If I am not mistaken, that is a Madcatz pad right? If it is, here is a site with all the soldering points and tips for that pad.
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz.htm
Hope that helps. Check out the links on the first page and look at people’s examples of pads to try and figure out the soldering points.
Shinma_sama: Apparently we have similar problems…I also used 2 different grounds but no matter what I just can’t draw 3.3v needed for my P360. I had no problems before using a digital Sony PS1 pad.
Sorry this may have been said I didn’t read all 21 pages - is there any way to get a MAS stick to play on Sega Saturn?
from what i hear its just a laminated overlay that is secured somehow to the stick…i dont have a mas but i’ve played on some…i’ll ask one of my friends with a mas what it is when i get a chance…or maybe someone on this thread can answer it…
i know that some people were talking bout it on this thread…just dont ask me where…i know this isnt any help…but maybe those people that do remember read your/my post…laters
Just follow the trace on the pcb. If you find one that traces through all of the buttons and maybe the controls, you’ve found the ground. Usually it’s the nearest copper point to that button/on the trace on the buttons.