question i’m about to do my pad hack and i was wondering for the buttons if i can solder on the little copper spots instead of doing the scrape and solder i’m talking about the ps1 dualshock pad btw
That’s the best way of doing it.
Er, I ment stick, but yeah, buttons to.
That will work then I guess.
Nah, sticks are different from buttons because they (usually) get mounted underneath the deck, whereas buttons go through. So if you bolt the Competition stick underneath, you need 2-5/16" of clearance inside betweeen the deck and the bottom of the box.
Also, Comp sticks are actually a little short when mounted under a 3/4" deck, so you may want to consider using a rotary tool (or router if you got one) to make a 1/4" deep groove for the stick to fit up into on the bottom of the deck. That way, your height is good on the knob, and that’s 1/4" less room you need inside, too. So you can make your box that much shorter and more compact. Every little bit counts. Or just use 1/2" MDF for the deck.
wow thats a good question
So 3/4 MDF with .093 acrylic is to thick for buttons and sticks? I need 1/2? I thought alot of people made the sticks out of 3/4. I do own a router, but no bits for it.
So I guess I need to either make a 1/4 groove into 3/4 wood around the stick, or buy another panel of 1/2 MDF for the top. Ok. I guess I need to run to homedepot, I wonder if they will take back wood, if not, good thing MDF is cheap as hell.
3/4" MDF is fine for buttons and sticks other than a Comp stick. Actually, it’s fine for a Comp too, but the Comp knob rising out of the deck will be a tad low. I suggest you drill a hole in the 3/4" MDF and put the Comp together to see what I mean. If it doesn’t bother you, then no sweat. I played on a Comp that I mounted into 3/4" MDF with 1/8" Lexan for a while and never noticed until someone mentioned it on these boards. Then I saw it right away, but it still didn’t affect my game. I never really felt the difference. I also admit I was a stick noob, and that was my first custom stick.
Anyway, test it out before you drop more cash, even on some cheap MDF. I guess I should have explained this in my previous post. I apologize, and hope this clarifies the issue.
Thanks man! You’ve been really helpful.
I have a question about putting art under some plexi.
What would be the ideal paper to print on? I’ve heard vinyl is good, and others have said that just getting something and laminating it would be just as good. What is the easiest?
Another question is how to make the holes for the art. What is the easist method without damaging the paper?
I wasn’t sure what the ideal paper type to print on would be, but recently tha-darkside stated he goes with heavyweight matte paper. I don’t see how you could go wrong following his lead, seeing as how excellent his work is.
As for making the holes, I would lay the art over the deck as it should be. Then use an exacto-knife, plunge it into the area where you know a hole is, and cautiously work my way around the hole’s perimeter, cutting it out as I went. That way, you can’t accidentally cut out too much because you’re using the hole itself as a guide. Well, as long as your holes are perfect, that is…
BTW, I have better luck with Lucite over plexi. I got some high-impact lucite from my local Lowes and it doesn’t crack and chip as much and drills easier for me.
Hello all I am very very new at this…
I am planning to make an arcade stick from the official dreamcast controller, and i do not know where to start. i have googled so many things but i havent seemed to find anything.
Can some one please(I am begging)post where I can find a proper tutorial on how to make this arcade stick…
Thank You very very Much :pleased:
Check the first page of this thread and read up, mainly CD_Vision’s and M3talslug’s site.
what he saaaaaaaaaaid?
What are you talking about True_Tech? Someone answered you and that other guys post, sorta, tha-darkside goes with heavyweight matte paper, or are you talking like DPI? 300 at the least.
Just tell anyone at Kinkos what you are trying to do and they will help. You could print it on any glossy paper and laminate it for the long run I guess.
If you’re considering using MDF and a comp joystick, then you may want to route out the bottom for the joystick. You stated that you don’t have bits, but you can do the same thing with a chisel easy. I’ve done it many times and I didn’t have to go out to buy bits or anything and the joystick sticks out at a natural height for the ultimate comfortability.
soo, I just did my first mod ever. I grabbed a fighting hori stick 2 from a friend and just used the case, got a blue s controller I had laying around from halo days, and just used that, dunno why. Anyway, I know it’s dirty and messy as hell, but as long as it works, I can live with it, it’s a first anyway 
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/spad.jpg
Hello, i’ve been wanting to get a stick for the longest but i didn’t really venture into doing one. What i want to do is build my own stick for DC only (cuz that’s the only thing i play) and i really need some directions as to what should i get to start, like for example, i got like 2 extra DC pads, i don’t know if i can use those though.
Anyone can help me?
Ah, I was wondering if I could do that! But, thanks to Home Depot, I just took back my little 2’x4’ 3/4 “handy panel” and they gave me cash back, so I went and got a 2’x4’ of 1/2 MDF with 2 bucks to spare! I was almost about to chisel it though, thanks for the info, I might go that route next box, since 3/4 seems a little more stable.
Has anyone added a Dreamcast controller plug to the Anniversary Arcade stick? It really sucks how it just for PS2 and X-Box…