quick question about quick disconnects
Do I insert the wire through the red plastic part and go no further or do I put it through one of the holes? (left on of right)
thanks.
After assembling the stick and mounting it then just push the actuator down some and there should be an indention which you slide the e-clip on. It also helps if you have another person helping you.
Just make sure the wire itself it touching some part of the metal of the QD and that it is on securely.
Just wanted to drop a note about the Namco stick I just modded. Most people know that the sanwa shaft is too long to use, and use the original namco shaft instead. The downside is that the top of the shaft above the housing is shorter than a normal sanwa. I instead used the shaft and actuator from a hori stick taken out of a Tekken 5 stick; the length of the shaft below the housing is exactly the same length as the original namco shaft, and the length above the housing is exactly the same length as a true sanwa.
I just found out SNAAAKE uses a 30watt iron. RadioShack had a deal with a 30watt, some solder, and a bunch of other stuff in one pack for 5 bucks.
I instead got a 15watt iron (grounded) by itself for 8 bucks.
Ah well.
Is flux needed for a soldering noob? I got ALPHA FRY 63/37 ROSIN FLUX CORE SOLDER. Do I need a seperate thing of flux?
For soldering to the microswitches no addictional flux is needed, but for soldering to a PCB, flux will help out a lot especially if this is your first time.
Grounding is in here… somewhere. You have to remember that there was a time when SRK had gone down and lost some info and a few posts were lost and within that time frame. In that time (which was like a day or two of posts), a lot of really good info that was posted was lost with the ‘crash’ or whatever and SRK came back up using the latest backup that was a few days old. Anyway…
There is a great deal about the grounding. Using two grounds. One for your controls, then another for you buttons alone. For some pcbs, that is how it is setup if you look at it closely. You’ll see one ground trace for the directional controls, then another ground trace for the buttons. I’ve experimented with using a massive daisy chain ground for everything, then daisy chain ground for one and the other. I’ve had times where the start would not want to work with the buttons ground for some odd reason, then I would switch it to the controls ground and it would be fine. I’m no electrician or circuit board experts, but I do have a friend that is and it’s his job. He explained it to me once, but that was a long time ago and I forgot. Best thing to do would be to use a multi meter to check to see if the connection is good or not. Look at the wattage for each connection. That plays a good factor in soldering a good connection. I hope that helps any.
lilblackino: I don’t have a SFAS so I couldn’t tell you unless you took a pic of your pcb. You can also use an external source for your power if you want to avoid soldering onto your board.
Ganzi Kazuya: Place the stick on a surface or against yourself, then with one hand push down on the square actuator, and with your other hand (w/e-clip) slip on the e-clip on the rod/shaft. <<< LOL… slip on…
RoTeNdO: Thanks for the response i will go take the pics now, i don’t want to really use an external source for power but if i have to i will.
I soldered all my connections on my first try and they all worked! wow I must be pretty lucky. anyways my stick is done, its plain but it works.
I have a question though, are competition sticks suppose to spring back in place when i let them go after holding them in a position?
Quick question:
Is there a way to remove light scratches on lexan?
Hey I was wondering if it was possible to take out the buttons on the HRAP and replace with Sanawa buttons? I myself wouldn’t do it, but I was curious to see if I could ask around or if it could actually be done regardless of the matter.
Yes, very doable. There are quick disconnects that make attaching it to the wire very simple.
Check this ps2 control out. Finally.
http://europe.thrustmaster.com/products/d_prd.php?p=T174&fam=5
http://hardware.gamespot.com/Story-ST-15141-1347-28-31-x
I would like to use this on a stick one day. No converters to buy. The only thing is i never seen the inside and is it compatible with GC and Xbox controler adapters.
Well I’ve never done such a thing before, so I’m a complete noob, so is there any risk in my fucking something up, or do I need like fourteen pieces of equipment just to do it?
It’s a very simple swap. All the tools you will need are a standard size phillips screwdriver, and some needle nosed pliers. And not to sound mean or anything, but if you mess this mod up, you’re retarded. :xeye:
2 questions:
is the happ competition stick suppose to spring back into place when it is let go off?
Im having trouble pulling off moves, could it be the way I installed the joystick or do I have to get use to it? if something is wrong with the way i installed it what should I look out for?
thanks
Well that’s why I’m still nervous, I really never have tinkered with a joystick before, and seeing as how I did spend a good deal of money on this one I don’t want to bust it open and fuck it up due to my complete ignorance.
Ideally I’d like to change the ball of the stick too, and have the entire thing be red (stick and buttons) but that still leaves the start, select, and turbo sliders.
;|
im trying to order from himura games but he hasn’t got back to me as to how to order.
ive sent him the email of what i wanted and i got my price back but that’s all after that.
I don’t get it. What joystick have you played that DOESN’T spring back to center? You have played in ANY arcade before, right? Of course it’s supposed to spring back to center, unless you ment your stick DOESN’T spring back to center…
It’s a rediculously simple mod, just crack it open, and replace the buttons.
Just send the money and as soon as he gets your payment, he’ll send out the order. I had added buttons to my order late and he still shipped em out. Rod is awesome to deal with.
…Since noone answered my question, I’ll ask it again and I hope you guys can help me with my project. I’m building a stick for a friend with a lexan top piece only. The thing is that during the building process, the piece got kinda sratched and I was wondering if there’s anything I can do about it. I was thinking: if we can remove small scratches on a car’s paint, why not on a piece of lexan. Any help would be appreciated.