Does any have, or can any take for me, a few pics of the PCB in the large pelican stick; doesn’t matter if its xbox only or a universal; I need to get an idea of the size of the thing to see if its worth getting one to use in a project box arrangement.
If anyone has one around, a pic next to a ruler would be wonderful. If anyone has any suggestions on a small pcb for xbox suitable for a project box job (With common ground, which knocks the reflex stick out, and reliable which knocks the red octane right out) please let me know.
wasup guys.Does anyone know where to buy custom arcade sticks or know someone that makes them.I bought the x-arcade and i dont like it.The character reaction time is late when pressing the buttons.Its going back to the store.Any suggestions?I need one to play street fighter on xbox live.thanks
o man.I found another post.alphaelectronics.com has a deal.Buy a mas system joystick and streetfighter for xbox and get like 10 bucks off.Know any better deals?i really want this joystick.When you customize the joystick what is better the competition joystick or the perfect 360 joystick?
still looking for help about the pelican real arcade hack. ive read through the thread about it and the only question i have is in terms of wiring. i know you can use the stock switches but i really dont feel like opening the thing back up if pelican’s swithces mess up so in terms of wiring, could i just put the pcb wires through a barrier strip then take the wires to the microswitches and quick disconnect them? it seems like more work, but is it really worth it. read through the thread about it being somewhat hard to get all the wires to reach if you’re using the crimping technique.
Replacing the stock switches is highly recommended. You could put the wires form the pcb into a barrier strip, and then another wire from the barrier strip to the switches. Personally, Im all for molex connectors over barrier strips in that situation, but thats just opinion. If you’re worried about the wires being short for quick disconnects after you clip them from the original switch, barrier strip or molex connector will work. ‘Is it worth it’ is the big question. Replacing the pelican switches with the ones that came wiht your Happs parts? Hell yeah, do it, no questions. Using a barrier strip: Err, prolly not unless you plan on a lot of rework. If the wires end up too short, you can always use a butt end crimp connector, or the tried and true ‘twist, solder, and wrap in electrical tape’ methods of wire extension.
Whenever you crack that thing open, do me a favor and measure the pcb so I know how big it is, maybe a close picture if you’re feeling generous.
also have one quick question, when you guys use barrier strips, how do you mount them? glue, screws, or what? in the last stick i made i glued it down, but then again, it was the european style barrier strip.
i plan on getting the two saturn hori pcb’s by next week. exactly how do you hack these or wire them up for use? is a solder or solderless hack? if i have to sodder, is it a tough job? here is a pic of it but when i get it im gonna do a more up close picture. Saturn Hori PCB
Instead of making a new thread, maybe you guys could chime in,
I’m going with the capcom fighter layout, but I want to make this SNK friendly, so where should I put that extra button (or would you even put another one in)? To the left of the buttons, in the middle? The far right top, making it for strait buttons in a row? The bottom left, below and to the left of the bottom butons? or either of those on the right side?
Either keep the 3x2 layout, and use short for A, and the punch row for B, C and D; or use a japanese layout, which makes using those same buttons even more comfortable. I have seen anyone try to merge the two in a way that wasn’t totally uncomfortable.
Hey Parry, did you ever solve your problem with your namco stick sliding around? If not have you considered putting some wheights in it? I tried adding about 10 lbs worth of weights into one temporarily just to see how it would affect it and it definently helped. It was very hard to get it to move around in my lap with the extra pounds in there. Even just 5 lbs would make a considerable difference. If I was going to keep them inside the case perminently, you probably could stick a piece of cloth in there to keep them from moving around. Or you could use some plaster or something.
I know that post is really old, but I just got the same pad from a friend to use for a stick. However, I can’t figure out where to solder for the shoulder buttons; it looks like there’s 2 silver points for each one. All the other buttons (and the ground, thanks to your post) seem self-explanatory enough.
Thanks to anyone who can help. It’s a Mad Catz PSX pad by the way.
