Darn it Spiffy, I would have asked him if you didn’t!
the 1st to show proof that this works and pics of it even will get the case. deal? cause i can’t lose the pcb you know what i mean? i loved this stick since the day i got it and the only way i will part with it is if i can still use a stick on dreamcast.
I haven’t done it my self personally but Shin Ace has done it many times and well he is sort of the electronics guru around here.
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1938965&postcount=2388
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56608
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1572132&postcount=23
Depending on the pads your using you don’t have to use a switch you could use diods to basically auto select the pcb to use. Diods supposedly doesn’t work well with PSX pcb’s because they use less power than all the rest of the gaming systems. I would think it wouldn’t work well with a universal one either but a switch should work fine.
Alternatively if you didn’t want to use a switch you could either use a jumber system like CigarBob did with his agitec stick or you could go with the project boxes method.
do i really need a switch?
and do you have pics cause the only thin holding me back at this point is the switch caue i think i would only need it if i want to plug it into a few systems at once (=bad idea will short the board) i am taking the agetec apart and tell me what you want from the remains in case this works.
added section
good and bad news. the good news i got the hack done and i gutted the agetec so it’s up for sale the case and the stick will come with it including buttons. remeber it was really gutted out .
now the good news.
more comming
the bad
the dreamcast seems to play it perfect but i need help added the switch to it caue it’s causeing inferferance with the xbox and ps2 board. funny the dc has no issue but on xbox there is some .
example
when i do the motion for the dragon punch and hit kick it does a shoryuekn if using a shotokan character. but staning neutral and hitting buttons on by one it seems perfect. i winder what nthe deal is. so how do i put a switch in there cause i want this done by the time i get my SF:ac this week.
Yeah, the only reason for the switch is to prevent the pcb’s from recieving power from more than one console at a time. As long as you don’t plug them both in at the same time you should be fine. One of the main reasons I would recomend a switch though is just to safe guard incase one of your friends who didn’t know any better managed to plug them both in and power both consoles at the same time while you weren’t looking.
Also you would want to try and combine the common ground from both PCB’s. It might be a little hard to find the common ground on a universal PCB but there should be one on there some where.
Check this thread out for more info on finding the common ground.
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67415
I don’t have any pics because I haven’t done this particular mod yet. But I’m certain that it can be done and this method should work. Maybe Shin Ace could post some Pics but the only ones I’ve seen him post so far are ones of the outside of the box with multiple wires coming out.
The only thing I would want from the agtec would be the case and the start button. You could keep the joystick and action buttons if you wanted.
Cool, I just sent you a PM.
You can get some switches from Radio Shack.
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_011_002_015_006&Page=1
Seems kind of funny that it would cause interference with the Xbox. You might consider either the jumper method or project box method. They are guaranteed to have no interference issues.
for some odd reason it works perfect now.
???
100% on all 4 systems
GC
ps2
xbox
dreamcast
??
lol, that’s funny.
lets hope it stays working.
I FINALLY GOT IT RUNNING HERE ARE SOME PICS OF ME PLAYING street fighter 3rd strike on dreamcast and some wiring.
any questiond i will help with an faq at some point.i might have to put a perminate vmu in there since i have to shut the lid to secure eveything but i wouldn’t mind i got 3 of em and caise transfer the data.
update i put a vmu in there so i can save. don’t put one with a screen in it , for some reason it screws things up. i used a 3rd part single card. now i can sav etc all in the stick.
If you can, you might want to do what I did on my DC stick. Get a four-page third party memory card. Some use a little slider to select the page to use(Performance brand), and some use just a button to toggle between them (Pelican brand).Get one of the ones that use a button to toggle between pages, and wire that button up to a microswitch on the side of the stick. I’ve got so many CvS2 matches saved to the card in my stick that its sick.
Part of me is crying that you had to use an Agetec pcb, but it should work more reliably than any other. And add me to the list of peeps would want the casing 
i have a vmu like that, i kept it out cause i have other gane saves in there like shenmue ,ikaruga etc. only need the single card
cause i didn’t want to cut the board up. one card clean and simple.
Don’t mind this post, it’s for someone else
update…noooooo vmu when playing on xbox will messed with the signal i lost 3 ggxx live matches cause of it. so take it out duinr ps2 and xbox live use
Nevertheless it’s a very nice box. Nice construction.
My first custom box pics
Here is the results my first attempt at at a custom stick. I used a competition joystick since I wasn’t sure about wiring the p360. I painted the back side of the plexi to make it look kind of cool and shiny. I also left off the L buttons. Works great.
i’ll sell it for $25 which includes shipping if you interested!
Im working on replacing some parts on my MAS stick (all of the parts) and I’ve got a few questions:
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wtf are up with the mas buttons? It looks like there is a screw going through each switch keeping it lodged in the pushbuttons.
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I have to clip the wires since they are soldered on, thus making them too short - I figure I need a combiner but am not quite sure what it is or what it looks like - and once I have that, what kind and how many wires do I need to get? just one spool and then cut them up and attach them to the combiner?
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How do I fit the quick disconnects onto the ends of the wires?
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I was planning on taking out the L1 and L2 buttons and just putting stoppers in. Do I have to keep those wires connected to something in order to complete a circuit or can I bypass them?
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The mas stick is wired with a single copper wire going around and hitting the outside arm of all of the button and joystick switches - how do I recreate this with quick disconnects?
thanks
- I didnt notice any screws attaching the switches to the buttons, only attaching the switches to the stick. The parts were standard Happs parts on the one Ive worked on, and should be an easy swap, evern if you have to uncrew the switch. I assume you are familiar with how to clip the switches in and out, so try to do that carefully, and maybe you can use the same switches with the new buttons and avoid any de-soldering/crimping.
2.If you are careful, you can clip the wire right at the solder point and have enough room after adding the quick disconnect. Best would be to desolder it, but if the soldering job on your is as good as the one Ive seen, you should have plety of room; the disconnect will add about 1/4" in length.
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If needed, srtip about 1/4" of insulation of, insert the wire into the disconnect, and use a crimper to squeeze the crap out of the disconnect onto the exposed wire.
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Just in case you change you mind later, don’t clip them more then you have to, and wrap the exposed ends in electrical tape. You don’t have to do anything special to them.
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clip or desolder them from the switch, and put both ends into the disconnect like in #3.
thanks for the answers. A few more things I want to follow up on:
I think one of the reasons it doesnt look as though I will have enough length after clipping is because the buttons that were originally in there used switches placed vertically, while the new competition buttons I am putting in have the switches laying horizontally in the pushbuttons.
Can you show me what this looks like? So basically each quick disconnect is going to have a wire coming into it and then one going out of it and into the next QD, as opposed to the colored wires which are just one into each button?