It uses happ comp buttons and stick. Here’s the wiring inside. I changed the pcb out today for a dual shock ps1 pad for better compatability with converters.
And here’s the whole inside wired up.
A builder’s best friend!
…for buttons anyway…
nice stick nite. what are the dimmensions on that? i dont have a multimeter right now, but in the future, i plan on doing more stick, and most of they require soldering. is this something i should go ahead and get?
Dimensions:
Top: 14" wide by 10" high with the corners cut to whatever you’re comfortable with.
Bottom I don’t have an exact measurement cause I did it by eye and sanding. I had to do quite a bit to get the bottom to fit in the groove.
Sides are 8 1/2" wide with the back part being 5 and the front being 4.
Back is 3 1/2" with an 8 degree angle.
Front is 2 3/4" with 8 degree angle.
Definitely invest in a multi meter. Very cheap and easy to use.
This is the one I bought here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=25412&item=3866337795
It basically means you can do a test on your soldering job before you actually plug in the controller.
im having a hard damn time soldering to these really really small points. i think i have soldered over two points. i basically just want to take all the solder off and start over. how can i get the solder off?
Nite: That is a damned clean installation. I see that we agree on the idea that zip ties makes for clean wiring. I probably would find the bolts on top annoying, but the inside setup looks first class.
freeway: heat up the solder with the iron and remove the wire. Then, either use a solder sucker (the blue bulbs parents use as a snot sucker for babies, or the spring loaded thing Radio Shack sells) to suck up the solder, or lay some copper braid (also available at Radio Shack) over the solder, and press the iron on it so the copper heats up, which heats up the solder, which then sticks to the copper. Soldering onto microswitches is a little different than soldering on a pcb, cuz its a large piece of metal. There’s usually a good amount of solder on those, and remember that the iron should get the metal tab of the switch really hot if the joints gonna hold.
I gotta agree. We see here the experience you have about building sticks. I did my finish my first stick last week and the wires are a BIG mess. Myself, I am a bit lost working with them so I’m hoping I won’t have any prob soon 
. I still got a lot to learn from you guys.
i need help with cover art for my stick.
i just finished modding my real arcade universal
stick with the happ buttons and p360 stick,
now it’s a damn fine stick. how ever how do i
put cover art on it like sf:ac stick or like many sticks i’ve
seen on the forum(very nice ones i might add).
Yes the zip ties make for great clean and professional looking wiring jobs. I think countersinking the bolts under the lexan is great for the joysticks. That way I only end up with the 4 holding the lexan down. I’m thinking about a lot of other ways to mount it without bolts.
You can screw the joystick from the back, glue it in place, or simply countersink the bolts. If you countersink, you can fill in the gaps and make it a nice flat panel again. All 3 choices will yield 0 screws on the front.
I meant the ones holding down the plexi. One just below roundhouse, and one a bit close below and left of the stick. Both look like they’d be right where my wrists would rest. With decent thickness plexi (1/8"and up?) the buttons aughta be enough to hold the plexi to the wood.
I countersink the bolts under the lexan for the sturdiest connection between the wood and joystick. Glue and screws can wear out over time and playing. I think the countersunk bolts is the best option.
Toodles:
I was actually thinking the same thing because after I put the buttons in the lexan was held down pretty tight. FYI when my wrists rest on the controller they don’t come in contact with the bolts at all. Another thing I may try is the t-molding with the lip like what’s on the sf arcade stick. Even another option which I may try is using 5/8" MDF for the tops of the cp and with 1/8" lexan it’s still 3/4" and the t-molding that size will fit and the lexan’s edge will be flush with the top of the molding. I’ll explor more ortions til I find something I like and what looks good.
ok, another cord just fell off my pcb for the reflex hack. i dont have a digital cam right now, but for you to get an idea of how small these solder points are, check out the pic. im at the point now where im upset with this thing. i messed up and have solder on two points and the rest of the solder i had is very messy. would it just be best to buy another reflex stick and start from scratch or just solder and move on. keep in mind, this is my first stick AND my first time soldering. or maybe i should just take all the solder off the wires i already have done and start over.
Design your art to be the same size as the surface of the stick with about 200-300 dpi if you’re using photoshop. Have it printed at kinko’s on indoor vinyl (personal choice) but make sure they get the colors right. From there it’s as simple as buying a piece of lexan (make sure it’s lexan; see below as to why) and drilling and cutting it to shape.
Ok, now some things about Lexan. You can treat it like wood. You can cut it, drill it, pound it, bite it whatever and it won’t crack on you. Seriously it is that great. I did an experinent earlier to try and snap a 4 inch wide piece earlier and bent it backwards and all I got was a bent piece of lexan. It’s more like that plastic toys are made of that you have to keep bending it back and forth to break than it is plexiglass. For cutting I’ve heard several methods but I just score and snap. Works great for me. For drilling I clamp it in place on the cp and then turn it over and drill from the bottom so I get the right placing for the holes. The attached pic was done at full speed and pressing moderately hard. No cracks here.
Don’t give up!
You’re being too rough with the wires. Try taping them down with electrical tape once you get them in place. Another thing: If the wires are inserted from underneath find the hole and heat up the existing solder while inserting the wire from the bottom.
Whatever you do don’t give up! You’ll definitely make some mistakes on your first stick. Everyone does. Just don’t get too frustrated and take everything slowly and carefully. I’m having trouble finding this stick or I’d do it as well. Any places around you have it?
well, the first place i saw it was at eb games. other than that, you would have to order it off the net. it can be found at buy.com, i beleive it may be $17 or $18, but thats without shipping. also, there is usually one or two of them sold on ebay almost every week. i want an xbox stick mainly because of SFAC coming out on xbox and be on xbox live, but i want all 8 of my buttons, just in case some game comes out that requires them, but its highly unlikely. well, if im still gonna work with this same pcb, i need to fix the solder issue im having. i would rather scrape off all existing solder and start over. how do i take the solder off.
Since I’m a broke ass bitch, how big are you guys making your sticks? I’m thinking about making a Mortal Kombat design one (just the design, not the logos/art) and then later I can put it on a cabinet built like the MK one.
Sound like a good idea? I don’t know, I’m fucking stupid.
Mine are usually 14x10 on the top and 4 high in back and 3 high in front. gives you enough wrist space and not a giant. If you’re building one for a cabinet you should consider a 2 player stick about 36-48" long. For elbow room 
[Design your art to be the same size as the surface of the stick with about 200-300 dpi if you’re using photoshop. Have it printed at kinko’s on indoor vinyl (personal choice) but make sure they get the colors right. From there it’s as simple as buying a piece of lexan (make sure it’s lexan; see below as to why) and drilling and cutting it to shape.
Ok, now some things about Lexan. You can treat it like wood. You can cut it, drill it, pound it, bite it whatever and it won’t crack on you. Seriously it is that great. I did an experinent earlier to try and snap a 4 inch wide piece earlier and bent it backwards and all I got was a bent piece of lexan. It’s more like that plastic toys are made of that you have to keep bending it back and forth to break than it is plexiglass. For cutting I’ve heard several methods but I just score and snap. Works great for me. For drilling I clamp it in place on the cp and then turn it over and drill from the bottom so I get the right placing for the holes. The attached pic was done at full speed and pressing moderately hard. No cracks here.]
is there a nother way i can do this?
like sticker paper? or can i draw this picture since i am
an artist, i can do up my own design in photoshop.
??