OK dudes, I started a new thread with pictures about the buttons in question. They are the ones sold through Betsons/Imperial as well. I have comparison photos vs other popular Concave buttons.
this should aleviate confusion and move things to their own appropriate thread.
topknot
1982
problem with redoctane pcb wiring for happ competition stick
—read a few postes back and found someone with the same question----
Hey guys.
Most people seem to indicate that the Ultimate stick has a lighter spring than the Competition stick, but in the diagrams at the Happ site, they both have the same part number, even though they look different in the pictures.
If they actually are different springs, does Happ sell the soft spring independently? If so, what is the part # for it?
Thanks.
I’ve taken the spring from an ultimate, stretched it out a bit, and put it in a comp to make it stiffer. They are interchangeable. However, I don’t know if they are identical.
For some reason, I feel that the ultimate is looser than the competition, even though I haven’t played on an ultimate in a while. It could be the same spring, but just under different compression.
RoTeNdO
1985
No. They use the same springs. No, Happs doesn’t sell ‘soft’ springs. You have your standard spring and then your heavy spring which you must order and install yourself. One reason why the Ultimate js feels looser is because the shaft is thinner than that of a competition js. When you install a heavy spring on a competiton js, that shit is going to be stiff as hell, while on the ultimate js it’ll feel more like a slightly tighter competition.
I know this because I’ve installed heavy springs on both js types before. I also know that they don’t sell soft springs because I own the latest catalogs and older catalogs. Peace.
I purchased 2 Competition Joysticks. One of them works perfectly. The other Joystick makes a loud clicking sound when hitting a certain direction, and you can also feel a hard “click.” It really degrades the gameplay! If I spin the joystick, the direction that the clicking occurs changes with the direction. I took the joystick apart, and made sure everything looked fine. It is a really simple design, and I don’t see anything wrong. The only thing I can determin is that the spring is slipping sometimes from the white plastic shaft. Any ideas?
The actuator likely has some little pieces of plastic that are catching on the joystick housing. One of my comps does that once in a blue moon on a certain corner.
Try to smooth out the actuator edges.
The actuator is 95-0197-00 correct? I am suspecting that it is 95-0199-10. Is that what you were takling about? Hmmmm, I will have to check that out.
Refer to this diagram:
Yep. You see how it has a larger square on one side. That square is normally not the smoothest at the edge.
Very fine sandpaper should work (something like 1000 grit) or some skilled work with an exacto knife to shave off slivers of plastic.
Well, I checked that out but don’t think that is the problem. I have been watching the joystick movement from the bottom. It makes this initial noise when going in a direction(sounds like you are pulling the joystick up) like a pop. And when centering the joystick you here another quieter click. This second noise happens when the actuator is away from the switches. The weird thing is that if I rotate the joystick, the direction that the popping occurs changes. I also switched actuators with the joystick that is fine and same problem. I really think it is the spring and the plastic “joystick guide”.
Any thoughts on what would be wrong with that?
Take it apart and check all the pieces that touch. Check the edges for any excessive wear, that should point you to the problem.
a tech from HAPPS told me that it is a known defect in some comp sticks. He told me the fix would be to use a shim between the ring and the actuator. However, when trying that my motion was very limited and the diagonals were very hard to hit. He told me at that point to send the part in. Of course I am going to have to go through my buyer. He told me that the most likely culprit was either the spring or the bottom housing. This really sucks!
yooo, im trying to solder a pelican universal pcb into my ro xbox arcade stick. ro pcb has 2 wires for u, d, l, r, but the pelican pcb has 1 wire for the directions. can anyone help me? (i have no previous soldering experience)
hey I have a quick question the pcb that the mas sticks use the ones with dc psx n64 neo geo interface can you buy one of those and if so where thanks in advance
topknot
1995
happ competition stick question
i got myself 2 competition sticks and i was wondering if there is a way to make htem a little stiffer. ( i just got my arcade sticks put together today). they are a bit on the loose side, just wondering if there is anything i can do about it.
Yeah, take em apart and stretch the spring A LITTLE BIT.
Finally finished my stick. No crazy artwork, no extra holes, just 8 buttons and a Competition stick. Simplicity is my thing, really.
Thanks to armad1ll0 for the replacement/custom drilled acryllic overlay. This was just the first project. I get enough money, the next one’s going to house a P360, two holes for the other buttons, and a cleaner inside (no spaghetti wires! hehe).
topknot
1999
nice stick 
i’m getting pictures of mine soon after i get my artwork done.
well, still waiting to get my 2nd comp stick replaced, but here is the first stick which is almost complete. I am going to upgrade the buttons to all HAPPS, and replace the cheesy RO moldings. The competition stick feels very nice!
thanks to Armad for his website where I first found out about upgrading RO boxes, and the various information that he has shared! Thanks alot!
I found the RYU photo somewhere on the web, did some photoshop to add red eyes, background and the “ten” kanji.
