The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

[Toodles]

All right enuf coding 4 tonight, I can send a raw packet (array of bytes) of arbitrary length to a usb device and capture the response as an array of raw bytes. I just gotta figure out what I gotta do to populate the request byte array and translate the response byte arrays correctly to match the linux tool and it should be done.

A sample raw request packet and response packet would be helpful Toodles when/if u can get around to it, and if its even possible thx. Ill have a tool update tommorow prolly regardless.

Each byte is handled one packet at a time, not all in one packet. I think that may be a difference in how we’re picturing this. Each call to eepromput() generates a single usb_control_msg packet. The 0x40 requesttype and 0xEA request tell the Cthulhu that the command is a write to the eeprom. The ‘value’ word (sixteen bits) contains the byte to write to that address in the upper 8 bits, and the address 0-255 in the lower 8 bits.

So, if the USB string is to be set to “Bob”,
Eeprom byte at: would be set to:
0x00 : ‘C’ (always set to ‘C’. Its the byte that’s checked to see if there is a custom USB string)
0x01, 0x02: Some number calculated off of the USB string. Doesn’t really matter what it is, but the Cthulhu will give this number as its PID when plugging in. You want to make sure the PID for any given USB string is as unique as possible; if you reuse a PID that’s been used on that PC before, the new USB string won’t show up. Add the character values together, do some sort of one way hash, it doesn’t really matter, but try to make sure this number is fairly unique.
0x03 : = size of total string message (size byte, type byte, and unicode string) = 1 (size byte) + 1 ( type byte 0x03) + 6 (“Bob” in unicode; each unicode character is two bytes) = 2 + (bytes in original string *2) = 8 for the example “Bob”.
0x04 : 0x03. Thats the byte that says its a USB string, ALWAYS 0x03.
0x05: ‘B’ //low half of first unicode character. For ASCII characters, its just the same as the ASCII code for that character.
0x06 : 0x00 //high half of the first unicode character
0x07: ‘o’ //low half of second character
0x08: 0x00 //high half of second character
0x09: ‘b’ //low half of third character
0x0A: 0x00 //high half of third character.

So that will be a total of eleven packets, one to write each byte. If you want to verify the writes, you certainly can, with another eleven calls with the read packet.

[neemo6]

Well looks like im in need of a pcb asap. I need the PS3 board or just kit, what do you guys think would be my best option to get it asap?

[Esker]

I like the look (love the pic!), I’d just make a small change, since not everyone needs/likes to see the output stuff I’d add a button with a caption like “Details” or something, that would allow the output part of the window to appear/disappear. There are lots of dialogs in Windows with this kind of button, so I guess you’re familiar with what I mean

I don’t understand why you would want this. Are you afraid of details? It’s not like they take up a large amount of space, and they can be quite easily ignored, especially in a run-once-and-delete situation like this. Adding a button to hide the output seems like a total waste of effort that could be put towards something actually useful.

[Tawler]

Here is mine all up and running as of today. I modded my finkle stick to be up with the times, basically. I may throw in a PS2 wire at some point, or maybe one of those RJ45’s if I’m feeling like I can even pull that off. Regardless, thing works wonderfully. Thanks Toodles!

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9320/img2064gsd.jpg

And yes, that is some crotch at the bottom there.

[System_1]

I don’t understand why you would want this. Are you afraid of details? It’s not like they take up a large amount of space, and they can be quite easily ignored, especially in a run-once-and-delete situation like this. Adding a button to hide the output seems like a total waste of effort that could be put towards something actually useful.

I’m not afraid of details, I love details, and from your comment I can guess you aren’t too. But there are people that don’t like them, most of the not-so-technical people don’t. And yeah, people who will be using this probably won’t have a problem with details, but that’s not the point, the point is: good interfaces should have only the needed information for most users while at the same time retaining power tools for advanced users. This being said, archalien already said it wouldn’t be very verbose, which is fine by me because I believe verbose stuff should only be available for those who want it and that means being available on demand and/or in a log file, and should be used mostly for error detection.

Anyway, I made a suggestion like archalien asked, he liked it and implemented it without a problem. But there’s really no point in continuing this discussion, it’s not important for the thread

[scratchback]

couple quick questions about wiring my ps3 toodles pcb:

1.what is the ground slot for exactly? do i take wire and connect to every button(including the 3 for start,select,home) then take that wire and put it in the ground slot?

2.do i need to connect a wire from the joystick also to a ground slot? the same slot that the button wire goes in?

3.when putting the wires in the pcb,do i just strip them like 1/4 inch and put them in and screw them down or is it better to fold down the striiped wire against the wire and then put them in the pcb? same with the qd’s,do i just put the stripped part in all the way till it comes out the other end and then crimp?

[Toodles]

couple quick questions about wiring my ps3 toodles pcb:

1.what is the ground slot for exactly? do i take wire and connect to every button(including the 3 for start,select,home) then take that wire and put it in the ground slot?

2.do i need to connect a wire from the joystick also to a ground slot? the same slot that the button wire goes in?

3.when putting the wires in the pcb,do i just strip them like 1/4 inch and put them in and screw them down or is it better to fold down the striiped wire against the wire and then put them in the pcb? same with the qd’s,do i just put the stripped part in all the way till it comes out the other end and then crimp?

1a. If the signal for a button or direction is connected to ground, then the board sees that it is pressed.
1b. Yup
2a. Yup
2b. If you like; you can use any of the screw terminals labelled GND; using one of them with multiple wires is fine too
3a. Use whatever method you prefer. As long as the metal part of the wire makes contact with the metal part of the screw terminal, you’re good. You usually only have to fold the wire back for very thin wires to make it thicker so it stays snug.
3b. Sure.

[scratchback]

1a. If the signal for a button or direction is connected to ground, then the board sees that it is pressed.
1b. Yup
2a. Yup
2b. If you like; you can use any of the screw terminals labelled GND; using one of them with multiple wires is fine too
3a. Use whatever method you prefer. As long as the metal part of the wire makes contact with the metal part of the screw terminal, you’re good. You usually only have to fold the wire back for very thin wires to make it thicker so it stays snug.
3b. Sure.

big thx toodles.

[System_1]

toodles

i need this

but
with this extension
http://www.newdigital.cl/img/clip_image002_0021.jpg

is possible?
and the same
but cut cable usb x360 to 4 inch and use this adapter

My idea is that the wires stick out of, like the Cthulhu

[scratchback]

when connecting a jlf wire harness to the cthulha,does it matter what color wire goes into what directional/ground slot?

[System_1]

I got my Cthulhu board on Thursday (from LL), and installed it on Friday.

After fixing the directions coming from the stick… it was perfect… couldn’t be easier.

Awesome job Toodles.

[RaidenthaShocka]

Whats the usual turnaround time for these boards to ship if they’re ordered direct from toodles? Im in Edmonton Alberta Canada

[System_1]

Whats the usual turnaround time for these boards to ship if they’re ordered direct from toodles? Im in Edmonton Alberta Canada

Hopefully not to long since I ordered 2 days ago

[Toodles]

Whats the usual turnaround time for these boards to ship if they’re ordered direct from toodles? Im in Edmonton Alberta Canada

T.O. usually takes a week. International Priority mail lists an ETA of 5-10 business days, so according to them you’re looking at two weeks.

Hopefully not to long since I ordered 2 days ago

Keep in mind, all international mail has to be handed over the counter here. You ordered at 11pm on a Saturday, so it hasn’t been mailed yet. I’ll send an email later today when its sent, but you’re starting the clock well before I could even mail it.

[System_1]

well since IM new around these boards, would you mind sending me some info to my email blueinkd@aol.com. I would like to get two of the MC boards asap, thanks

[Vince34]

Toodles thanks for the MC board, it works amazing in my SFA Stick. I love it!!!

[Toodles]

well since IM new around these boards, would you mind sending me some info to my email blueinkd@aol.com. I would like to get two of the MC boards asap, thanks

All the info you should need is in the bottom of the first post of this thread.

Toodles thanks for the MC board, it works amazing in my SFA Stick. I love it!!!

Glad to hear it.

[System_1]

Ah ok, didnt realized all I had to do was send payment. Paypal was just sent for 2 MC assembled boards.

[kimcicle]

Toodles,

Got my board while I was out for the weekend. Plugged it in and did some prelim testing before I threw it into my joystick, and there’s an issues with 2P / 3P, as either will trigger both in Windows. Any way to fix this without having to solder / send it back?

[neemo6]

Payment was sent yesterday could you confirm you got my order Toodles?