7261

So, I searched the thread to see if anyone else was having this problem, but it seems pretty unique.

I’ve been playing a lot of Dreamcast games on my Cthulhu lately, and it works great for most games. I put in SF3: Double Impact today though and it continually activated pause over and over, randomly. Being the curious guy I am, I tested a few things out. If I leave the stick neutral, it doesn’t do it; it only starts doing it after I press other buttons, then it will do it randomly regardless of whether or not the stick is at neutral. I tried it in all four controller ports, with or without other controllers plugged in. It also did not do it in any other game; I tested over ten other games from multiple developers, burned and original copies, any variation I could find. It only happens in Double Impact. It also has never happened to me playing on any other console or PC.

Since I basically isolated the problem to that specific game, any idea what might cause this to happen?

7262

I’m not sure, but I can definitely look into it. Which game were you playing: SF3:NG or SF3:DI, or did it occur in both?

7263

Both. I’m going to check it out more here in a little while, I think I remember this happening to me when I was playing Twinkle Star Sprites once…

7264

Oh hell no. I will NOT tolerate any craziness in my TSS! I’ll find a copy and see what I can find.
Out of curiosity, was this a legit copy of Double Impact, dedicated burn, or from the ‘SF3 collection’ compilation disc that someone made?

7265

it’s a burned copy. I’ll try to track down a legit one to test…but I have no idea where i’d find one. Anyway i’ve tested in other games, including my legit Marvel 2 copy, by MJ Edition Marvel burned copy, and the TDC v2 disk, and those all worked fine. and I just checked TSS, no problems there, but it’s still doing it on Double Impact. It does it less when the controllers are both at neutral by the way, but pushing buttons on EITHER controller seems to make it begin to pause sporadically. I’m going to burn another copy and see what happens…

EDIT: Okay, I was wrong at first. It only does it when another controller is plugged in, and only in Double Impact. When the Cthulhu board is plugged in alone, no problems. I only have a DC pad to test it with, but when I plug in that pad it starts doing it, regardless of which port the pad and stick are in.

7266

The legit vs. burned isn’t really a concern. Give me a few days to play with it and see what I can find out.

7267

POV hat, sorry.

7268

First thing to do would be to plug it into the PC in 360 mode and not pressing Home yet so we get the glitch. Take a voltage reading on the right screw terminal without anything pressed, and another with the S+S pressed so we get the glitch. Then, remove the wire from the right screw terminal, press the S+S buttons and see if the glitch still occurs. Then take another set of voltage readings at the end of the wire you just removed from the right screw terminal, both with and without the buttons causing the glitch pressed.
Those voltage readins aught to give me an better idea of what’s happening, hopefully.

7269

So this isn’t the first time I’ve done a cthulhu/Chimp mod but if I connect button to the assigning part (lets say X for example) on the Chimp board, if I press that button it should work right?

Some reason I think I am going crazy since none of the buttons is not working at all on the ChimpSMD, it autodetects the 360 and works perfectly fine but on PS3, none of the commands work even though they are connected correctly.

any ideas?
is my board busted?

Also, Thanks Toodles, for your awesome work :slight_smile:

7270

Wiring.

7271

and this is what I am confused.

Only about 5 wires are connected.

the USB cables from the madcatz TE-S to the chimpSMD and 1P

On 360 ( the button is A) it works
On PS3 (which is X for ps3) it does not work
on PC the button is being recognized when I push it.

Not sure what other wiring could be the issue.

7272

1P isn’t X on PS3, and isn’t A on 360. A button reacts on PC, so the most important information you’ve left out so far is how exactly you’re testing this. Right now my money’s on the XMB, where the square button don’t do much.

7273

Haven’t really seen this anywhere else and it definitely is an amateur question since I’m on my first stick, but doest the ChimpSMD emulates the digital part of the pads?

Rephrasing this… would the ChimpSMD be good for playing shmups?

7274

Last thing

Hey toodles I got everything I need to get my smd up and going once it gets shipped and I noticed 2 things.

  1. The smd has 2 grounds for punch and kick section
  2. The start select has another ground as well and that the ps3 pcb doesn’t have dedicated home button.

I cut the ribbons from the pcb and used a sheet of paper to label them. The first wire is
Start, Select, Square(1p), Triangle (2p), R1(3p), ground. The second is L1(4p), X(1k) O(2k), R2(3k), L2(4k), ground. So should I just ignore the ground for the start and select? Also I guess your pcb automatically reads start and select as the home button which is why you told me that earlier?
Also for usb to clarify
VCC = RED goes into VCC on O side
D+ = GREEN goes into OD+
D- = WHITE goes into OD -
GROUND = BOTH BLACK WIRES goes into ground on O side and both not just one goes into that (I read from previous post)

7275

You are correct that the ChimpSMD uses all digital inputs (joysticks with four microswitches) and I dont know of any shmups that use analog inputs, so yes, it should be glorious for shmups. I should add that there is one other perk that you’d be hard pressed to find about the Chimp and my other products; by default, the directions are sent as both POV hat and X/Y axis movements. That means that it works the same both for games that recognize the d-pad on the ps3, and also works smoothly with PC games that only use the X/Y axis, like every single Touhou game and just about all doujin games ever made. There’s information about this in the faqs in the first post under the Cthulhu section.

I should mention though that a shmup fan would probably dig the MC Cthulhu more because of the support for other systems. PS1/PS2/Dreamcast/Saturn, SNES, NES, Gamecube, etc. ChimpSMD’s main perk is the ability to easily dual mod with a 360 pad. Doing the same with an MC is possible but it a tad more work. If the 360 isn’t a concern, then the MC may be a better fit especially if you like to dig out the older games.

  1. Yup. Better to have and not need than need and not have. You can use any or all GND screw terminals. If it looks like there is a GND screw terminal you didn’t use, don’t sweat it.
  2. You wont be able to access the Home smoosh button on the original pcb without soldering. Since we’re avoiding soldering, nothing should be connected to the original pcb at all.
  3. NO. That separate ground for start and select was used for the lock switch; it sounds like you have a TE-S instead of a normal TE. You MUST connect that ground for Start and Select to one of the GND screw terminals. The other ground for the rest of the buttons must also go to a GND screw terminal.
  4. Correct.
  5. That is the best way to do it. If you can’t cleanly get them both into a GND screw terminal, the thinner black wire is the important one; the shielding is helpful but not 100% required. If you can get both the wire and the shielding into the GND screw terminal, more the better.
7276

Yes I have TE-S so pretty much the ground on the gray wire with start & select go to the start select home terminal on the smd. The 3 buttons 1p-3p go to respective spots leaving the first ground open on the smd. Then the remaining 5 4p-4k and the ground for that wire goes to the far right ground or far left. Although this will leave the one open based on the diagram. Which is okay?

7277

Re: The problems I was having with PS2 > 360 via the FGW converter

I went through step by step again, built the FGW converter, then wired up 5v and GND.

From there I went one button at a time. First the directions, worked no problem. Then the ABXY, no problem.

Everything works perfect, until you wire up RT/LT from the SE PCB to R2/L2. When I connect the triggers from the 360 pad, the whole setup stops working entirely.

Remove the trigger hookups, setup works 100% again.

I don’t need triggers at all, so I’m glad I figured out at least a way to get it working for my needs.

I’m going to wire them all up with 6 buttons, and consider the issue closed on my end, but just wanted to let you what I found out in case there may be something you can derive from that (possibly the way the 360 SE pcbs do the triggers as opposed to other pcbs?).

Either way, my PS2>360 converters are working perfectly for how I need them, so thanks.

7278

I thought you were using them in a supergun setup? You may need to remind me what happens when the setup stops working with the 360 pad.
At any rate, it should be easy to make it work though; two cheap diodes would do the trick. Wire the end with the band to the FGW converter, and the other end to the trigger on the 360 board.

7279

Sorry, I may not have been clear.

I bought four FGW converters. Two for use in that supergun setup (which I haven’t returned to since getting it to work with the HRAP2 sticks), and two to create PS2 pad to 360 converters.

Originally I wired up the ps2>360 and got no response out of the ps2 pad when plugged in. It was powered correctly and just wasn’t registering any inputs.

I tested your method of joining the SNES spot on the FGW and seeing what happened on a pc when the CMD and DAT spots were shorted (nothing happened when I did that).

However, now after going back and redoing the whole thing I’ve found that when the LT/RT are connected to the setup I get no inputs again. When I take them off, all works perfectly.

Like I said, I’ve got what I need now, directions, start/select/guide, and 6 buttons. So that’s probably all the effort I’ll be putting into these converters.

I will be building more (and ordering more from you) soon, so I may try the trigger fix if someone I’m building it for happens to want 8 buttons for some reason.

The supergun issue I’ll get working on troubleshooting next.

7280

Awesome board. I set it up on my 360 and I love it. I didn’t know what to do about mounting the ChImp, but eventually decided the best thing to do was to drill a few small holes in the bottom left side next to the original pcb (as far down\left as possible) and mount on motherboard posts. I messed up at first by not putting it far enough away from the stick and had to move it over a bit. Looks pro and isn’t just taped there sloppy like. 2 posts holds it firm.