7221

are you testing it on fighting games? cause this doesnt work on games that require a ps2 dualshock (like guitar hero or other games) Cthulhu emulates a Digital psx pad :slight_smile:

7222

I tried it on Guilty Gear XX Accent Core Plus, the PAL-version. I also tried just moving the stick around/pressing buttons in the ā€œsystem modeā€ (you know, the menu you come to when you have no disc). I tried inserting the stick holding select and/or start as well, didnā€™t really change anything.

I didnā€™t know that though, so thanks for that information anyway. :slight_smile:

7223

First post FAQs has all of that.
Yes, there is a upgrade kit to replace the PS3 Cthulhu chip with an MC Cthulhu chip. It has to be ordered from me, cost $12 each.

Either your cord or the connection from the Cthulhu to the RJ-45 jack. Itā€™s definitely a wiring problem.

The majority of that guide will do perfectly for the ChimpSMD, including the various solderless tricks. The only difference I can think of is in steps 3-5.

You can desolder the existing USB cable like it says, but instead of soldering it to the Chimp board, you screw down the 4 wires in the four screw terminals for VCC, OD+, OD-, and GND (you should screw down both the ā€˜thinā€™ and the ā€˜thickā€™ black wire in the GND one). After you solder the wires to the four USB holes in the TE board, you connect them to the XD+, XD-, VCC, and GND set of screw terminals. Everything else in the guide is identical to my knowledge.

What I should suggest instead though to take care of those steps 3-5 would be to cut the USB cable between the board and where it exits the case. Remove some of the insulation, and shove the 4 USB wires from the outgoing section in the four OD+/OD- group and the ones left connected to the TE end into the XD+/XD- group.

7224

yes! it makes so much sense now XD thanks alot dude thats where I was stuck while i was reading the guide and welcome guide.

7225

Thanks for the heads up, man. I will go that route.

Youā€™ve probably heard this a million times over: Your products are great, but the level of care and attention you pay to this thread is legendary. You are the man.

7226

FGW question:

Hereā€™s how itā€™s hooked up:

PS2 extension cable > FGW > 360 SE PCB

The extension cable Iā€™ve double checked to make sure all 7 correct spots are hooked into the proper spots on the FGW board.

5v on 360 is connected to VCC spot on FGW, as well as GND to GND.

When I plug in the setup, the 360 pad is recognized on PC and 360 (shows 360 arcade stick on PC, and on 360 the ring lights up on the 1P spot).

The ps2 pad doesnā€™t register any controls on either system though.

When I press the analog button on the PS2 pad, the light goes on and off again. So Iā€™m pretty sure Iā€™ve at least got the pad powered correctly.

Whatā€™s the first step to take to troubleshoot this?

*also, is there a spot that needs joined on that board to tell it to be in PS2 mode, or is it there by default?

7227

Iā€™m also curious what the strip of points labeled GRN/BLK on the edge of the board is forā€¦

7228

These may have been answered somewhere in the past 290 pages, but the search isnā€™t finding anythingā€¦

How do you make this work with all the PS3 buttons? I need R3 and L3 at leastā€¦sixaxis emulation would be nice, but I at least need the stick buttons.

Does this still work with the latest PS3 firmwares? I know Sony blocked a lot of controllers, and I know that they will never block the sixaxis that I am considering hacking if R3 and L3 cannot be done by this board.

Do you sell the bare boards? I know you donā€™t sell the un-assembled kits anymore, but what about the bare PCB?

7229

All right, thank you for the fast reply!

7230
  1. PS2 is the default; niether of the solder jumpers should be shorted.
  2. First test that the chip is programmed and running. Temporarily short the solder jumper for SNES mode, the one between A and L2. Unplug the PSX controller from the extension cord end. Plug the 360 pad into your PC, bring up the properties, and use a wire to connect the point marked DAT on the board with the point marked GND. When you do this, everything on the 360 should activate, at least the start, select, and six play buttons. Dpadā€™s reaction is undefined, but button response to that short should be obvious. When you remove the wire connecting DAT to GND, the buttons should release and you can try it a few times to see the buttons react when you make the connection. If that works properly and the buttons do react, then we know the chip is programmed and running, so the problem must be with the extension cord you wired up; make sure to undo the solder jumper before trying the PSX again. If it doesnā€™t, we need to get some pictures of the board, look for missoldered stuff.

For connecting an FTPI USB->Serial cable for programming in Arduino. Donā€™t mess with them pls.

All of my products work great even on the latest Sony firmware.
Absolutely every other question is listed in the FAQs in the first post.

7231

Hey guys, Iā€™m about to do my second Chimp SMD install in a Madcatz TE. Iā€™m curious as to if any of you have done an install of a Chimp SMD and mounted the board somewhere inside the stick. Iā€™d love to see some pictures if you have, so I can get some idea of how I want to go about it. Thanks!

7232

Nope, nothing activates when I short those points.

I can start taking pics of the board if needed. Iā€™ve done enough work with your boards to be fairly confident that nothing is soldered wrong, grounded or disconnected, but you might find otherwise.

I have tested every single point between the 360pcb and the FGW for continuity and to make sure nothing is connected with GND.

7233

So take some pictures, and try swapping the chip out with one from one of the other kits.

7234

Will do.

I was thinking a chip swap would be a good idea, since iā€™ve got enough of them sitting here.

7235

Semi related question:

Whatā€™s the best and quickest way to test the FGW right off the bat in the least amount of steps? The only thing I can think of is to do these steps:

  • solder capacitors/resistors
  • solder socket
  • connect vcc/gnd to pcb it will be piggybacked on
  • connect ps2 extension cable
  • check the reaction from shorting gnd/dat using steps you mentioned above.

This seems like thatā€™s a lot of steps (including the worst part, working with the ps2 extension cable wires).

Is there a way to maybe just provide power to the FGW and check voltages with a multimeter somewhere that will tell me if the chip is working correctly without having to go through putting the extension on?

Iā€™m just wondering because I could possibly be ordering a lot of these and while 99.9% of everything youā€™ve sent me has been perfect, itā€™s never fun to wire up a whole project and find out you didnā€™t have a working board to begin with.

7236

Soldering the R1/10k resistor and IC socket would be the minimum. Other resistors wouldnā€™t be required for testing but would be needed for production. The caps arenā€™t required to work, but helps with stability when its running.
To test, you have to connect 3-5 volts (so 3 AA batteries would work) to one of the VCC holes, and of course GND to the negative power. Use a paperclip to connect the L2 spot to the G spot (hurr hurr) under it (thatā€™ll do the same thing as shorting the jumper for SNES). Use the multimeter to test voltage on just about any spot, like one of the directions: Voltage should be high normally, and low when you short DAT to GND.

At least, it should. If it doesnā€™t seem to work let me know and Iā€™ll to recreate it.

7237

Toodles need your help

hey toodles i sent you an email i think to an old address i found on lizard lick or something like that. either way Iā€™m not trying to troll you Iā€™m just really pissed at madcatz and glad you have good products. Okay so my question is I have te stick pcb must bee broken it keeps giving down signal to ps3 its so bad that when in training mode ill be crouched unless i hold up on my joystick which it reads as ā€œneutralā€ either way my pcb is broken piece of crap and unlike 360 pcbs on the sticks im totally screwed becuase it houses everything soā€¦ i need a new pcb and i saw the cthulu on lizardlick and was wondering 2 things how do screw down terminals work and how will i connect my sanwa stick that needs a ribbon connector to the cthulu. I already know i wont be able to use turbo and lock switch which inever used anyways. I also know that the wires with the quick disconnects wont go to the small pcb with labels on it so may pictures on how to insert wires from buttons to cthulu and how to connect ribbon to board may be simpler idk sorry for spazzing thanks again man

7238

I have an LED Question: Can the ChImp SMD activate the turbo LEDā€™s? I was playing on a PS3 and the HK turbo light came on on the Madcatz SE. Does this mean anything, or was something going awry or what? Iā€™m having disconnect problems, but I believe that it might be related to the USB cords not being in all the way. However, once I replug the USB cable, it works again. Anyway, if you could inform me about the LEDā€™s that would be appreciated.

7239

Hi Toodles,

Would you be interested in having a Canadian distributor for your products?

Regards,

Mark

7240
  1. Wire goes in hole, turn screw and it clamps down on the wire.
  2. The ribbon has 5 wires; one for each direction and ground. You screw down those wires in the matching screw terminals.
    If youā€™re scared of soldering, Iā€™d suggest picking up a ChimpSMD. Easiest way to do the mod is to unplug the ribbons going to the main pcb, clip the connector ends off, separate the ribbon cable wires like 4 inches down and remove 1/4" of insulation off of the end of each. Screw down each of those ribbon cable wires in the matching screw terminal. Cut the USB cord close to the original pcb, strip 1/4" of insulation off of each of the 4/5 wires and screw them into the matching screw terminal spot. Youā€™ll have to press Start+select in order to activate the XMB menu, but thatā€™s it.

I canā€™t tell you anything about the LEDs because the ChimpSMD isnā€™t connected in any way to the turbo LEDs. What I can say is that sometimes they come on faintly, but itā€™s not indicative of any problem.

Sure, but shipping costs always suck. Send me a PM if youā€™d like the full spiel on bulk orders.