Rev 1.1 boards with spots for the USB jack are en route. I need to order parts so I’m taking orders now and will put up a better dedicated thread when they arrive and I can get pictures up, probably end of this week.
Unassembled Cthulhu kit (no USB jack, no screw terminals): $20
USB jack: $3
Screw terminals: $8
The complete ‘I’m scared of soldering’ ISOS Cthulhu board : Assembled and tested, with USB jack and screw terminals, completely solderless installation: $40
Shipping is a flat $5.50 for priority; add $1 if you want delivery confirmation or insurance.
USB cable: $4 each (5’ plain white)
The USB jack is a recommended for everyone; without it, you’ll need to cut the USB cable and solder it to the board. Without the jack is cheaper of course, but it will be a better overall stick by adding the jack.
I’m offering the USB cable has just as a service; if you really want the stick to pop, get your self either a good 3m colored USB cable like this:
The Cthulhu board will eventually support multiple consoles, but not yet. This is for a PS3/PC only version, and won’t be upgradable without buying a new chip. If you want those features now, look into the UPCB. Those features wont be available in the Cthulhu for a while yet.
Since you’re moving away from the UPCB design anyway, any thought of moving away from PICs? granted, they are cheap, but, a faster chip with more memory space would give you more breathing room. Also should open up the possibility for what should be the holy grail of PCBs, Dreamcast.
I’ve been stuck in a malaise over the idea of building a universal joystick host for a crazy multiway adapter. Reverse UPCB, everything to USB or everything to raw pinouts. watching progress on this might give me some motivation to move my ass on that project.
Find me a through-hole capable microcontroller, with built in full speed USB tranceiver, that is significantly more powerful than the 18F4550, and I’ll definitely consider it. In order to seriously get past the limitations of the 4550, I have to go surface mount, which drastically ups the difficulty of assembling, and the cost.
Dreamcast will still happen, I just need time; with a 19 credit no-fluff courseload this semester, time is in very very short supply. You’ll notice I got a CRAPTON of stuff tackled over summer break
well that doest it. i will sell my TV tomorrow just so that i can but some PCB’s from you
will check with some other people here if they are intressed…
Wow those got here fast. Boards arrived today. I need to place an order for the rest of the parts tonight, but hope to have these start shipping out by Friday.
This will play on what consoles for now? And what consoles in the future?
I’m assuming PC/PS3 for right now? And to get a 360 in there you just have to wire it up to the holes that are next to the USB jack yes? And then it will all come out of one USB cable for either PS3 or 360?
What about programing? You will supply updates and such through that PIC? Just plug into computer and download?
And for the bare kit, all I gotta do is solder those other parts you give us onto the board? Seems easy and I can save $9!
Close; its the grid of small holes on the side of the board opposite the USB connector.
That depends on how you wire it. If you PS3&360 support, I’d recommend not getting the USB jack, and instead using the xbox360 USB cable that came with the pad, and wire the USB cable to a DPDT switch.
Not for this one; the PS3/PC code is not updatable. When a suitable bootloader is coded and multi-console support gets added, the multi-console boards will support code updates. But, for now, its not available and there is no ETA on when it will be.
If you want it to look just like the picture of the ISOS version, yup. The USB jack is recommended; the screw terminals are optional.
Just a minor update: Parts should be arriving tomorrow or Saturday. I need to tweak the code a little bit, so kits should be going out in the mail Monday.
There is a solution, but not one that would be cheaper than buying a MadCatz common ground pad. The MadCatz CG 360 pad have been used with the Cthulhu board to make a ton of 360&PS3 sticks.
Alright, parts came in, all orders have shipped, and what I have left is all nicely bagged up ready to go out. I have 18 kits ready to go, any of which cane be made into a solderless version in moments, and one solderless already assembled and ready to go. Prices are same as listed in here: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5545036&postcount=43
Please note I am also open to trading for various stuff. Disgaea 1&2 PS3, Phantom Brave PS2, Dynasty Tactics 2 PS2, Disgaea 3 for PS3, MVS carts, 360 or PS3 games, Xbox live point cards/game cards, just about any CPS2 boards, the PCB from inside a Wii fighting stick, GBA SP or Micro, and all sorts of random eclectic stuph.
Okay - I’m just now finally getting serious about actually USING my UPCB. So I might not be the best person to ask, however…
Since you pointed me at the Arduino yourself, I can’t help but wonder if an arduino shield might be simpler for you to make. Seems like it can read/write fast enough.
The Arduino is simple enough that a stand alone board would actually take up less room than a full shield, and be cheaper than your normal decimelia.
Using the Arduino/Atmega16 as a base would mean no full speed USB support like I have now. Speed of the actual chip, the Arduino is faster, sure (16MIPs vs. 12MIPs), but not enough to justify losing the debugging capability I have now,and the on chip USB tranciever. Believe me, it was considered, and is too a degree still considered.
Well, I’ll work on getting my hot tub wired up (the new topside should be showing up today!), and after that - now that I’m semi-clueful, I might give it a whirl just for fun.
Search returns just a few results when I search for “sanwa flash” - did the upgrade board project ever pan out?
I’m making a few friends in the Mechanical Engineering college that have access to their rapid prototyping equipment, so there is still the possibility of getting the plastic pieces for the flash clone so I can finish it. There’s still the problem of expense getting a mold made, but there’s no sense in worrying about that until I get a proto or two made. Its still on the list of things to do, but is lower on the list than getting the Cthulhu board fleshed out.
I meant compared to the size of a decimilia. Decimilia size is a little bit larger than the Cthulhu board. Yes, the -mini, -nano, and other small versions, especially surface mount versions, of the arduino will be smaller than the Cthulhu board; Most of the area of the Cthulhu board is there for the wide spaced connection points for easier install and so screw terminals can be used. If I wanted to forgo those and just use .1" spaced holes on the side, I could probably get it down close to the size of boarduino, but the goal isn’t size. The goal is to make is as easy to use as possible, then as buff as possible without making it harder to use. The UPCB will always be buffer than the Cthulhu board, and 50% larger, but it is difficult for some people to install. The assembled Cthulhu board, like the one Im sending you (thanks BTW), is hands down 100% the easiest to install PCB into a custom stick. Put the wire in the hole, screw down, put a USB cable in the plug, and you’re done. In order to get that kind of ease based off an Atmega, I’d be looking at the exact same sized board, and less reliable USB support.
So I might not be the best person to ask, however…