Hey guys, can you tell how old the latest version of The Link is?
Not even a month old in a way. Unless you don’t count sexy new colors to be a version. http://arcadeshock.com/collections/phreak-mods/products/phreak-mods-the-link
Thanks for the info. I e-mailed the site I got all my gear and they say that their stock is the latest. But after seeing your post I doubt that. Shame those colors are Evo only. :s
It’s gotta be the latest, haven’t revised the design in a long while now. Can I ask why you’re wondering about the revision?
Also, keep your eye out, colors aren’t done yet!
HI Phreakazoid. I was going through the thread and noticed that there have been improvements on the original design and just want to make sure I getting the most recent version. Have bought one from arcadeworlduk.com/ and looking forward to installing it. Thanks for your help.
Yo, I’m wondering, I’m building a stick and I need a Link, unfortunately I have already made orders from the states and would like to avoid import taxes again, anyone in EU have a Link laying around? Can’t find em anywhere but Focus Attack and Paradise. It would be much appreciated.
Sorry, I dunno if I’m allowed to ask this to be honest. But I’d love if I could scoop one up.
Thanks.

It’s gotta be the latest, haven’t revised the design in a long while now. Can I ask why you’re wondering about the revision?
Also, keep your eye out, colors aren’t done yet!
Unrelated. Read through this whole thread to see if there was a fix for my issue. The problem I’m having is not what others are having. When I pull on the link to release it, one (or sometimes more) of the bearings isn’t retracting and so it’s getting stuck. So rather than a new shaft it seems I need a new top.
Can’t get this sucker off!
No it’s the same issue that others may run into. Basically the ball bearings are digging into the base and causing it to stick.
Try following the same procedure as I always recommend.
- Palm the balltop and with the same hand pull the collar back to disengage.
- Rap the bottom part (that usually sits inside the joystick assembly) against a table edge, and rotate the the hand holding the Link so that you basically bang on all sides so that the bearings wedge themself out.
- Once it gets loose, you can try to clean off the inside of the top section and the bottom section with some rubbing alcohol.
- You can optionally use a little bit of shin-etsu grease on the bottom section in the groove where the bearings sit to help alleviate sticking.
If you can get it loose, and try those last couple of steps, and it still sticks again. Contact me and I’ll get you new base pieces.

It’s gotta be the latest, haven’t revised the design in a long while now. Can I ask why you’re wondering about the revision?
Also, keep your eye out, colors aren’t done yet!
Different colours than the ones arcade shock had at evo? I picked up a blue one. Any chance we can get some with a metal flake?
Hey, is the top part of the link shaft the exact same between the JLF and LS-32 versions? I already have the JLF version but I’m looking into buying the LS-32 version too and was wondering if I could use the same top piece between both sticks.
Yep, same top section can be used on both base types.
Sorry if I missed it: does this work on Hayabusa sticks?
I saw on FA that the ‘pivot’ needs to remain. What does that mean?
Yeah it should work just fine on Hayabusa sticks, not sure what the pivot comment really refers to though but I’ve dropped them into Hayabusas without problem doing a normal install.

Sorry if I missed it: does this work on Hayabusa sticks?
I saw on FA that the ‘pivot’ needs to remain. What does that mean?
I’ve used a link on both the normal and silent Hayabusa without any problems.
ok. thanks. I guess they’re talking about the first part from the top of the shaft here
Okay, no longer delaying this. Putting it up now!
Hayabusa FAQ Version 1.1
Compiled and ordered by GeorgeC
http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/GeorgeC1970/Hayabusa-4_zps2cf50419.jpg
NOTE: The information in this text is up-to-date as of April 30, 2014…
Revisions by the original author and others may follow as new information and corrections flow in.
Hayabusa Part Introduction - mid-2012/June 2012; debuted as exclusive Hori OEM part on Hori Fighting Edge joystick marketed for Sony Pla…

the black thing on the first one, white on the second and teal on the third. I assume that’s the pivot.
So the LS32 has a natural “pop-up” when you ride the gate hard, and that I’ve grown accustomed to already. I love the link, but I feel like with the link shaft has made the pop-up even more pronounced which is a bit annoying. Does anyone else with this combo feel that?
Resurrection! Just got one of these finally only to find out that my ALU dust cover from focus attack doesn’t fit with the Link Shaft, forcing me to use a shitty Madcatz spare I had. Does anyone know of any other known incompatible dust covers? I was thinking about just getting this: https://www.focusattack.com/copy-of-sanwa-jlf-cd-translucent-red-shaft-matching-dustwasher-set/

Resurrection! Just got one of these finally only to find out that my ALU dust cover from focus attack doesn’t fit with the Link Shaft, forcing me to use a shitty Madcatz spare I had. Does anyone know of any other known incompatible dust covers? I was thinking about just getting this: https://www.focusattack.com/copy-of-sanwa-jlf-cd-translucent-red-shaft-matching-dustwasher-set/
Most custom Dust washers don’t fit correctly, although I seen people widen up that center hole and added a bevel in the inner opening to allow the Link to work correctly.
Standard Sanwa brand Dustwashers (the shaft cover version) works with the Link, but not most after market dust covers. The Mad Catz dust cover is made closer to the Stock Sanwa shaft cover version of the Dust Washer.
Good to know. Thanks!