What pieces do you need? I have buttload of happ parts. If not try tornado terrys. He doesn’t seem backed up at all.
interesting. just tried this. nice, minimal exertion. will have to see if real play results in accidental activation, as I tend to keep my fingers lightly on the buttons even when not pressed.
check out user divemaster127 at the arcadecontrols.com forums. He has a thread in the buy/sell section.
Just ordered parts for a full happ build from him 2 weeks ago. Takes paypal, and got me my parts in 1 week (so I assume he’s not currently backed-up) I think he’s cheaper than just about anywhere else too, including lizardlick.
I tried it, it feels really nice, but accidental button presses were pretty common with my hand position. I had to put the springs back in.
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Use the short cone pivot that’s usually used with P360 (Happ part #50-0340-00) instead of the taller, cylindrical pivot that comes with comp sticks.
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Use a light Happ spring in place of the heavier stock IL comp spring. The Happ spring is also cone-shaped, which can cause problems no matter which way you install it. The best solution I’ve found is to install with the small end closer to the actuator, and cover the inside/bottom of the housing with electrical tape so that the little ridge doesn’t interfere with the spring.
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Cut the entire top of the actuator off, letting the piece that it sits on to come up above the top of the actuator piece. This should create the proper height to clip a 3.5" Wico shaft, but I can’t confirm yet.
I sanded/cut the shit out of the pivot and actuator I have atm, and although the stick is in working order, I need to test with 100% new clean parts that haven’t been mangled to shit to see if everything lines up and any minor problems don’t come up.
^good shit! I hope to try it out for myself soon.
Also, just a word for anyone who’s interested, the new place that people have found to be offering JLF’s, arcadeshop.de, is offering individual Wico balltop shafts. I personally find them to be sort of on the expensive side, but it is an option for anyone who wants one.
Just something I found last night.
I’ve had a competition stick just sitting around for spare parts for a few months now. While working on a customer’s stick, we decided to put the spare in, to see how it’d look with another color joystick. The shaft didn’t fit into the newer competition body. Strange! I didn’t think to look if there was some manufacture date on them, but the old spare definetly has a thicker shaft than the newer ones we’ve been using. There seems to be some change in their manufacturing.
Where can I find p360 dimensions or even a technical drawing with measurements? I browsed through this thread and used the search but could not seem to find it. I’m building my first case for a custom stick and have been looking for the right height for the case. On the arcadeshop.de website I found a technical drawing for the Happ competition, is the (vertical) size the same (Happ Competition technical drawing) or does it even need more space? The competition requires 59,55mm for a bottom mount.
Hey guys I’ve read every post in this thread and I must say there is a wealth of knowledge here. Ok so I have a couple of questions.
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I’ve read numerous times where the solution to fixing the Happ Comp sticks is just to buy the new iL Eurostick from either Lizard Lick or Ponyboy. This is the same stick that EvilSamurai talked about in the first post that was better but squarer right? If so, is it much noticeably squarer?
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I’ve had an arcadeinabox stick for about 8 months now with the new Happ stick (black actuator) and until last night, the stick moved in a FLAWLESS circular motion. Then last night after banging on the thing for some hours, the stick was rubbing against the switch or the tab and it was impossible almost impossible to pull off a :qcf: consistently when on the left side of the screen. I wake up today and it’s alot better but it’s still not 100% smooth as it was before when moving from :d: to :r:. Any suggestions as to what may have happenend here? Do you think it’s possible that I’m just now noticing that the stick doesn’t and never peformed a pefectly smooth circle?
Ok so after a couple more games, it’s not alot better than it was last night. Maybe I should try sanding it down. If that doesn’t help i’m going with the iL Eurostick
So I dropped an e-mail for Ponyboy today and got a response pretty quick regarding the status of the white iL Eurojoystick. It should be available in two weeks! Hyped.
Also, I just wanted to say that I now use a totally springless Competition button setup on my mini MAS, and it feels slick as hell. Definitely grew on me faster than I expected.
A quick question for a n00b like me, I felt this might be the most appropriate place to ask.
Are Perfect 360 sticks typically good for people starting out with American style sticks? Though its not my first time, have not played in the arcades for 6 years or so. I noticed in the past I was able to execute dragon punch motions better on it than the typical Happ Ultimate/Super. I recently got an Arcade in a Box arcade stick with a Perfect 360 stick, and I felt the price gap over the iL stick would have represented more superiority.
To cut to the chase, I might have broken it in the wrong way by putting too much pressure on the hold for charge characters. I only played on it about an hour a day for two weeks until I noticed a problem where I cannot perform down charge up moves (e.g. guile’s flash kick) at will. One side (left hemicircle) is more stiff than the the other, and it makes squeaking sounds whereas the right side is quiet. I emailed AIAB if there is a possible solution, and posted here to see if I can fix it. It would be a bummer if I had to buy a new P360; though if P360 is not good for beginners, I will have the iL installed on the stick.
Does anyone know the reason Happ stopped wroking with iL to develop the comp stick? One would assume it’s a price thing but speaking with Terry at Tornado Terry’s he seems to think that the iL comp sticks it was a qc issue. And that the original comps seemed to fail in the long run. Also, the new comps with the black atuator have to go through a sort of breaking in period. But was a better stick in the long run. I may be getting parts of the story wrong, but has anyone heard a similar story?
I ask because my 4 year old old stock comp stick I am using with the cherrys and white actuator has actually started to “get stuck” on me. A look at the base showed a fine pinkish powder on the cherrys. And moving around the joystick shows the actuator corner getting caught in the open grooves on the top of cherry microswitch.
I’ve started using a balltop shaft from tornados and wonder if this is contributing to the problem. Maybe the shaft is moving in an angle that is unnatural for the comp. Or giving it more play than is normal. I have no idea…what else could cause this.
I don’t think anyone has been able to put an end to the debate over which stick is better, because there has been a few inconsistencies between people and their stick performance. Based on what I remember though, there were a few people who agreed that the Happ Comp was superior with some work (either changing/ modifying parts or breaking in), but the iL is the best out of the box, so to speak.
I honestly don’t believe that Happ really switched to manufacturing in China of all places with the interests of quality control. They may oversee their operations more directly, but money is an obvious factor.
I think the pink powder you’re talking about is just the tips of the Cherry switches getting ‘sanded’ off by the actuator of the stick.
I’m not sure if the balltop shaft could be part of the problem, but just as a side question, aren’t the Tornado Terry balltops made to replicate those of Pacman cabs? Aren’t they sort of small compared to like a Sanwa balltop?
That springless comp stick sounds real interesting
^it’s really a great feel. I definitely recommend trying at least a few sessions with it. btw, I think you meant to say springless Comp buttons. A Comp stick (or any stick) without a spring would be funny as hell lol. Unless you meant ‘stick’ as in a full arcade stick, then yeah it’s an awesome mod.
The terry balltop is 3/16 and the sanwa may be 7/16 but don’t quote me. Whatever the actual size the difference is negligable. I was actually surprised by the sanwa balltop. I was expecting it to be huge compared to the terry balltop.
Oh okay, I’ve never actually seen a Sanwa balltop in person either, but I just know that Pacman shafts and tops are somewhat small; I guess I shouldn’t overestimate the size of a Sanwa top if ever I decide to get one.
Lol I actually thought you said stick. And yea a springless stick would actually be impossible to play on. That’s what happens when i type half asleep :wgrin:
Guys, I just don’t understand it anymore. I wake up in the morning and my stick feels good. It makes an almost smooth circle. After playing with if for about an hour, it starts giving problems and feels like it’s rubbing on the right microswitch or something else. I’m done worring about it. As soon as Pony or Lizard get some more Eurosticks in, I’m getting one!