Yes
Read a page or two back, I believe the top of page 35. The oversized kowal actuator has tendencies to bump/get caught on the stock Hayabusa gate. I was told it works better on the Kowal octagonal gate. I may be wrong though.
Found it:
Jannodude wrote: Ā»
I heard the actuator gets caught with the restrictor. Does yours have that issue?
The actuator did get caught on the stock hori restrictor. The kowal has a touch more clearance on the underside.
So Iāve picked up a PS4 VLX recently(thanks, Vicko!), and I was going to wire it for Knserts, but when I was about to check out and buy them, but then I noticed the ArcEye3s. I liked what the ArcEye3 does way more than the Knserts, and they mount directly to the switches themselves. So I picked up enough for a full mod on the VLX along with enough clear CWX buttons, but then I realized the LED PCB I have isnāt going to cut it. Itās a FGWidget*. Which would be fine if I stuck with my Knsert plans, but I want all sorts of crazy colors.
What are my options? Right now Iām looking at the Remora which was designed for the ArcEye3s in mind. Itās for the TE/TE2. Which is kind of a hassle. Iāve noticed the Kaimana Kameleon board, but there seems to be no documentation for it, other than it works very well with PS360+ and configuring is done via flashing the onboard arduino. The LVT3 seems to be uniquely designed for the TE, even if the button layouts are extremely similar, mounting would be kind of a minor nightmare.
If I go with the hassle, thanks to Jasenās work labeling the pinouts, I think I can wire it up some adapter cables? I would have to get really creative with the appropriate JST connectors. Iād also have to wire up power, but Iām thinking if I just jumper +5 from VCC from the stick to one of the unused pins(1/2/29/30, I think? 2 and 30 look like they might be connected to ground, but I canāt find my multimeter to verify ) and run that pin to the power in on the Remora itāll work. Iāll have to rig up Share or something(If Iām feeling really masochistic, touchpad click) as select too. But thereās 3 more unused pins, so jumpering another wire for that isnāt so bad.
(* Iāve got a use for it; I also picked up an FG Converter and an MC Cthulhu. Iām going to wire up an everything to everything else converter. However, I want a board thatāll drive debug LEDs because I know iām going to get this wrong during the initial build.)
Just got my hitbox panel in from @āJasen Hicksā, complete with the artwork template I created from scratch to replicate the stock look as closely as possible. Smoke Sanwas for now, though I may toss in my GamerFinger set until PAS can do up some OBX-MX in 24mm.
http://i.imgur.com/rf5OZq5.jpg
I also have the Brook PCB adapter and daughterboard template to make this a definitive piece of work. Did anyone ever figure out any options for etching the 19mm buttons?
Thatās incredible in my eyesā¦ I envisioned something similar to your idea and you actually turned it into reality. If you donāt mind, can I have that same layout?(so much for your originality) Iām on the fence of putting a Hitbox style layout(I was a Hitbox player for four years before selling my official Hitbox controller to acquire a VLX). I was planning on preordering the official Hitbox from their website but my wife would freak out if I purchased another gaming peripheral! BTW, your the guy that designed the Hitbox layout for Jasenās customs right?
Lol I asked if you wanted RGB or no, and you said no.
You need a remora and arceye 3s (no start support), or you can go with Kaimana and Js (supports everything).
Youāre absolutely welcome to use it. I designed it for my own purposes, but figured others would want something similar, so I posted it up free to use. You can order a HitBox panel from Jasenās site, add artwork and just let him know you want to use this one.
Yep, that was me. I noticed the offsets on the official layout were inconsistent during normal use, so I threw the template into Photoshop and mapped it all out. Found a damning mess, so I reduced the official Vewlix to 80% size (30mm with 7mm offsets to 24mm with 5.6mm), then duplicated the HitBox approach (copy 1P 2P 3P, mirror in opposite direction, lower row by 50%) and tweaked it until the distance between each button was fairly close to the original HitBox setup. I did this for Vewlix and also for Noir, and put prototypes into the hands of a few local HitBox players for testing. Everyone came out favoring the Vewlix arrangement by a wide margin, so thatās what I went with. The first version was done by AmpUp Customs and used in my wifeās TE2 here, then I passed it along to Jasen for use in the PFS2 and eventually the VLX. Iām mostly just stoked to see it in the wild and I hope everyone else enjoys it as much as I do. I still have a custom TE with the official HitBox layout on it, and itās gotten progressively more irritating to play on over time. Just for fun, here was my original working template when Angel asked me to give him full measurements:
http://i.imgur.com/TaGAZ4T.png
And hereās the grids I snapped over the official layout:
http://i.imgur.com/vQ2IJWO.png
Somewhere I have the measurements, but just a quick glance shows just how all over the map their button placements are.
I highly appreciate it, I will let Jasen know when I order it that I want the same art as yours. Got one question. Did you use the EZ Mod along with the Brooks universal PCB? Iām trying to keep everything stock. How did you wire your buttons?
I showed my wife your layout/art and gave it an approval if I made the buttons purple!
Got my Jasen EZ Mod kit and I made it a hard mod. I desoldered the USB jack and screw terminals and cut a piece off the VLX PCB lid so the UFB barely sticks out the side. The 3 black wires coming out over the top of the stock wire harness is for a Kaimana, which I am currently troubleshooting. Also for those asking, the shiny stuff around the PCB box is sound deadening material. The previous owner installed it to keep the noise down.
No flash:
With Flash:
The aftermath:
As we said before, you can get a 5 pin JLF to 8 wire button conversion harness so you donāt have to snip/strip/crimp any of your stock wires.
Edit: crisis averted, found another source
Your too nice, I couldnāt find it to save my life.
Not sure which one you originally linked to, but I have a small cache of honestly kinda crappy quality harnesses from arcadeforge.net. The PAS one is .187 terminals, so youād have to strip those and put .110s in. If PAS or JCC offered that same harness in .110 out the door, that would be nifty as fuck and Iād buy 10 of them just to keep around for all the hitboxes I make for friends.
Jasen and I were just talking about that.
Yeah .187 sucks but itās still doable.
Itās going to be necessary soon enough. The more panels like these we see, the more people will be interested in swapping them in to try outā¦ but you need that .110 harness that jacks into the stock JLF cable to keep from having to tear apart your stock wiring. Unless Iām wiring directly into a Brook or PS360+, I always use an ArcadeForge harness.
You basically have to strip and crimp your own quick disconnects? I apologize for being completely noobish. I work in a field completely far from electronics.
Thanks,
Jan
Yes, thatās correct. I think I still have some packs of 50 for $4.95 each.
I have the 1mm oversize kowal actuator and the octagonal gate. It works perfect so far, but the actuator is made of a very soft plastic so the gate is eating it up. The actuator is starting to build up a large gash along the side. I can see the gash on the actuator getting large enough to get stuck on the gate. I think an aluminum gate would work better, Iām sure someone out there makes one.
Best way to reduce throw with octo gate on Hayabusa is above the stock gate , use longer screw like this :
Ordered my Hitbox panel with RageousX artwork from Jasen. Now I just have to wait for the Arcadeshockās EZ Mod and Brook PCB combo.
does the 1mm oversize kowal actuator for jlf work in the hayabusa stick? i love everything about the hayabusa except need a shorter throwā¦ i notice the stock and kowal are different shape up topā¦ one slanted one straightā¦
waitā¦ so get the kowal octogate and put it on top of the stock gate? is the real gate still square or octo? this shortens the throw? does it make for faster engage of the switches that an actuator would?
What size screws if you have the infoā¦ thanks