Pretty sure Darksakul has Lindbergh art on his VLX but the image seems to be down
That I do
I have to double check if I still have the file.
Hi.
Iām thinking about buying a VLX Kuro and replacing the PCB with a a PS360+ to get rid of the input lag. Does anybody know if thatās viable and if so would it be hard to do?
- Why would it not be viable? Youāre replace one PCB with another.
- Itās not hard, but can be made EXTRA easy with @āJasen Hicksāā UFB EZ Mod board. I had that discussion with Jasen earlier in this thread starting here.
Finally finished my VLX mod project - big thanks to Jasen for parts and advice and RageousX for the help realising the art, and others that offered suggestions earlier in this thread. Got a lot of help from plastic and sign suppliers here in the UK too.
Wanted to maintain the finish of the vanilla top as much as possible. Had an idea to blend some ST art with the original stick art.
So after a lot of chasing, changing suppliers, and failed attempts, I finally managed to decently recreate the silver/reflective elements, and set the print behind acrylic (plexi), using the Sega 1p six button layout.
https://i.imgur.com/ebeTK59.jpg
Can say more about how it was done and what made it fail at the first few attempts if anyoneās interested
PS: Got a Brook UFB + EZmod in there too 
The art is a very good idea. One of the best I have seen in YEARS.
Well done and congrats!
Iām interested in learning more on this! Please elaborate.
Thanks!
Itās constructed of a few layers:
[list=1]
[] 2mm acrylic
[] Printable and transparent membrane (also with permanent adhesive on the top side)
[] Chrome vinyl (double sided permanent adhesive)
[] Base plate
[/list]
Tried to do it on a budget so went for chrome vinyl instead of the expensive fully-mirrored stuff (I figured having the plexi would turn this more or less into a mirror).
Had to provide a vector drawing of the layout to enable the suppliers to cut the plastic.
The most challenging aspects that led to failed attempts were:
[list]
[] Finding a chrome vinyl where the adhesive didnāt mottle too much
[] Getting the ink flow right on the membrane to prevent the chrome coming through and making it look purple
[] Lining up the print with the plastic was easy but then lining that up perfectly with the base plate was a challenge
[] Cracking plastic!
[/list]
I originally went for 1mm plexi but as soon as I popped a button in, and due to very slight misalignment it cracked the top sheet (a low point!). Acrylic is great for a more scratch-proof surface but it is more brittle than other types. So settled at a stronger 2mm thickness and also managed to align things better. Iāve noticed since that the vanilla topās plastic holes are slightly larger - only for the button holes. This is surely to alleviate this lateral pressure so if I ever decide to have another go Iāll try expanding the hole size slightly on the vector file. Since learning this I sanded the button hole edges slightly so they taper more - I figure this will minimise pressure.
2mm plexi definitely feels raised but itās no biggy - makes the VLX feel somehow even more substantial 
Also I would look at reverse-printing on the plexi itself. Only reason I didnāt go for this is that I was use two different companies initially - one for the plastic cut and the other for everything else. The plastic company turned out to be unreliable and inaccurate though - a massive cause of delay.
Itās all mounted on one of Jasenās 6 button panels - picked up a scratch-and-dent one which was perfect for this
In the right light and angles it can still look a bit purply and the mirrored areas are not as clean as the vanilla top but theyāre damn close. Purposefully managed to capture this in this pic to try and show this:
A bit tempted to try some of the things above and have another go one day but happy with it for now.
Newegg is currently selling the VLX Kuro (PS4/PS3/PC) for $269, until Thursday, if someone wants to snag one.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16879994059&ignorebbr=1
Hi. Iām looking to buy a Seimitsu LS-32 for my VLX. Shopping through ArcadeShock I realized the LS-32 Sticks come in two different plates. The SS and SE one. This scared me as I donāt know if itāll fit my VLX. Does anybody know which one is the right one?
Any help is appreciated.
For the VLX, youāll need the SS plate.
Hi. Bought the SS plate. The holes donāt match so I canāt nail it at all. Are you certain itās the SS? Iām pretty ignorant about these things.
100% sure itās the SS plate, since thatās what I used in mine. If I remember correctly, you may have to install it (the plate) 90 degrees rotated (just like in Mad Catz sticks).
Well it doesnāt match at all. If I try to install it vertically, only the half of every hole fits, so I canāt nail them. If I try to install it horizontally, thereās no holes to drill at all. Would you care to post a photo of how yours is installed?
How my LSā40 is mounted into my VLX
https://i.imgur.com/EZJQDOo.jpg
You got to use the middle hole, not the corner holes and only use two screws.
Donāt worry the joystick mounts fine and it is just as stable.
I screwed the spare two screws into the white plastic plate.
That works! thank you very much!
So I acquired an original PS3 vlx. It has some paint rubbed off where the previous owner rested his hand. Whatās the go to solution? Paint the whole thing? What kind of paint is best. Any info/input would be appreciated
powder coating is probably the best solution