@DrFate
Nice custom case, odd layout, wrong thread for showing off custom sticks. 
Nice score on the price of the VLX Kuro.
And don’t triple-post; you can edit your posts and add more to them.
I just mostly lurk. This is most you might get out of me, peace till the rap5 comes out.
…I lied, my bad bro @FreedomGundam
Is the Shadaloo Transporter XL bag the only one available for the VLX currently? 120$ is really hard to swallow for a bag.
Yes, but protecting a $300, collectible Fight Stick shouldn’t be cheaper out on. The Splitframe bags are super high quality with a lot of padding in them. The $60 Qanba (which is too small) has no padding.
I agree with Jasen. The VLX is a $300+ arcade stick, some of us put a hundred dollars or more in mods into our VLX sticks to customize it further.
I always say, and the new guys always scoff at this, you get what you paid for.
I’m getting a new top sheet made to go with Jasen’s 6 button VLX layout - probably going to print to vinyl and then bond it to plexiglass.
I have everything ready to go - just looking at suppliers for the print and plexi (here in the UK).
Can anyone advise on the thickness of the plexi? The original looks like 2mm but I’m not 100%. Obviously it’d be great to hear from someone who’s done similar stuff with their VLX.
I’ll post pics when she’s done
There was no original plexy. Hori sticks do not ship with a stock plexy. The original art is just printed on to a sheet of soft plastic.
As for bonding the vinyl plastic to a sheet of acrylic, Do not even try it.
If you aren’t careful the glue can act as a solvent and ruin the print.
Better off getting something like roll-on, spray matte or shiny laminated for the vinyl, or I’m sure places that print like auto shops can print on vinyl and apply a sheet of laminate too, not sure which is tougher though.
When I print and cut for the VLX panels I do it in a couple stages:
- Print on the vinyl.
- Let it dry for 24-48hrs.
- Laminate it with satin vinyl laminate by Oracal.
- Put it back in the machine to cut.
Sign shops should follow the same method. There is spray on film specifically designed for solvent based inks, but its definitely not as tough as an actual film.
Thanks for the advice, I have found a place that can laser cut a thin piece of acrylic (plexi) to spec for a fair (cheap) price, and so I was thinking of bonding a print to this somehow. And yeah - probably using professional help as I really have no clue about what glue to use and how to do a decent job of it!
I make the stock plastic top to be 2mm so I was gonna aim to copy this. Similar to Jasen I found a supplier who could do everything necessary, but this was almost the price of the stick itself…(£200).
And sorry Jasen - you mentioned laminating a vinyl print before. I’ll check out the spray/film options for laminating as it would afford a bit more room for error. Here I could laminate the bleed too as opposed to going down the plexi route which would require a cut around the edge (before the bleed).
I don’t think i’ll ever get tired of looking at the diamond. Welcome to the club!
Glad to be here!
So I just bought a another vewlix off a guy on Craigslist for 100 bucks!?!?!? He said SFV got him out of Fighters?!? His loss my gain. Pics coming soon! How many is too many? Lol
i just got this bad boy! I need a custom artwork for it now!!
looks best as is…
Check out my Hori Hitbox layout with Vinyl custom graphic. Also has a Brook UFB inside. Woot!
Had this mod in use for months but wanted to share, 360/PS4 VLX With Jasen’s Turbo Panel Replacement;
19mm Metal Push Buttons:
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http://i.imgur.com/ry3kvkA.jpg
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http://i.imgur.com/j0ZjQC6.jpg
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http://i.imgur.com/b1mU7LE.jpg
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http://i.imgur.com/mvH4WfY.jpg
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http://i.imgur.com/bK2v6z3.jpg
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•Also had some SPST 19mms but they ended up too large for this, so only possible future change would be a DPDT 19mm. No accidental actuations here possibly 100x the pressure needed to actuate vs an OBSF30, they’re water proof(has an o-ring) buttons advertised for marine use.
•And compared to my stock-ish VLX
I got my hori vlx hayabusa a few days ago. Like others have reported I had problems with the buttons. 2 of my hayabusa “falcon” buttons was squeaking pretty bad. I read threads that said after some use and breaking them in the squeak will go away. I thought I should share my faster fix that worked for me. What I did was pop off the center and rotate it 180 degree and reinstalled it. Squeak is now completely gone for both buttons. Hope this helps others.